LarryTheCableGuy

There may already be a thread for this.. how much knock sum is too much?

According to my accesport I have 0 on cylinder 1-3 but on cylinder 4 I have 63. However when doing pulls it does not change under load. Feedback knock is at 0 and stays at 0. Fine knock is a .02 at idle and .06 under load. 

The only thing I can think is the sensor is picking up the valve tick since it is fairly noisy (especially cylider 4) but doesn't sound like knock. 

I'm pretty much only going use liqui moly in this car. It has 180k miles and in great condition for that age (significantly better than low 100k ones I see on marketplace).

Thanks for the help especially since I haven't seen reports of people using liqui moly in the LGT before.

Their website says nothing and it's not the easiest to contact them. I know a guy at work that is sponsored by them so he may know. As long as their is no friction modifiers it doesn't matter if it's hypoid or not?

I am looking into a transmission fluid change, and I want to use liqui moly's fluid since from my experience all of their products are amazing. However the only fluid I can find in stock is 75w-90 GL5 hypoid gear oil and GL4/5 hypoid (I'm not sure if the 5MT uses hypoid gears and if it doesn't would this fluid hurt it) or their 75w-90 GL4+ fully synthetic fluid. 

Not fully sure which is best and after some googling I have yet to find my answer so here I am...

Thank you so much for the help! I am glad forums exist because I would have waisted a lot of money for no reason. My LGT will be in the shop soon for preventative maintenance because I do not fully trust myself with doing engine work correctly yet since I am only 16 ( I do go to a trade school for auto tech but we mainly cover American cars). I know a shop that I trust and personally know everyone there so I know the work will be done right. 

Big thanks to KZJonny

Ok thank you for the help, Idk anyone irl who owns subarus and actually puts aftermarket parts on. Everyone at my school has riced out Honda's and they are 0 help with figuring out what parts are the best for a stock motor and turbo (They all tell me to get a Honda instead of a "gay subaru" lol). I do need new rims because they are corroded but they have brand new winter tires on them and squeal with hard acceleration so I defiantly need something better for summer. I was planning on coil overs and sway bars anyways, maybe spec b suspension components since there is one at my local scrap yard. I am realizing less will probably be more performance wise. 

What tire size would be best and what size sway bar? I don't want too large wheels that they rub when I add coilovers but I don't want something too small and same for the swaybar, not overly stiff but not as soft and oem. 

5 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said:

An aftermarket/cold air intake is completely unnecessary and would required advanced tuning. The stock intake works great, feel free to add a nice panel filter.

The stock BPV works great, no need to change or try to upgrade.

A boost controller requires advanced tuning and is unnecessary. If you get into more power upgrades it’ll be something to consider.

All you really want is a downpipe (preferably catted) and catback exhaust, then load up stg2 on the AP and run the best octane gas available in your area. It’s that simple.

That does make sense, I'm not sure if a cold air intake would give turbo flutter because I haven't seen anything explicitly saying how to get flutter but that would really be the only reason I would want a intake assuming that's all it takes. I mean if I spend less money on engine parts then I can use that money for appearance related upgrades.

If say I instill UEL headers with a downpipe and catback would that all still run on a stg2 or would the UEL headers require their own protune?

2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

What are your plans for turbo, fuel system, engine internals uprgrades, etc.... How old is the car/block?
What are the compression and leakdown numbers?

Car is an '08, so unless you found a real low miler in excellent condition..... your parts list is a recipe for overboost and possibly causing some serious damage to your engine. 

Plan your build and build your plan. What are your trying to acheive?

 

Pardon the million questions, but they're justified. If you're showing up asking if the COBB AP is going to jive with this list of planned parts (it won't, as others have stated) and don't have a clue how e-tuning works (look up Cryotune or Tuning Alliance) but you want to throw thousands in parts at a car, you've got your priorities reversed.

Unless you're going big or swapping to E85, half of what you've listed is a fat waste of time and money.

It is fairly high milage because that is all I was able to find within a 100 miles (176k) I got a great deal on the car due to being a highmilage car but the motor is very healthy and previous owner took amazing care of her and put a brand new clutch in before selling it. Before I do anything aftermarket I am doing some preventative maintenance first, new sparks, timing belt, water pump, oem turbo inlet, and various gaskets. I do not want to push so much power I will need to upgrade the turbo or have to upgrade the engine internals, at the very least a catback and downpipe for sound and a cold air. I want this to be easily daily drivable without running the risk of blowing her up. In order to ensure the AP tunes will work smoothly I will probably use as many cobb parts as I can. The only place I can go near me for a tune that I know of in Turnin Concepts in Cincinnati and from what I have heard about them is they only tailor to specific people. I have no clue how to tune myself and I do not to risk tuning for my first time on a car I need to get to school and work. The more I think about it the more I am willing to spend the extra cash getting cobb's parts just to make sure everything will work as it should.

One other thing I have noticed it doing that I'm not sure is bad or good, when I do a hard pull I can feel boost kicking in and out, it almost feels like the waist gate is opening and closing to keep boost below a certain level. I don't have any way to monitor the boost to know if that is what is happening or if its a boost leak somewhere or if it's leaning out due to the turbo inlet being worn down and likely having a rip in it. If it is the turbo inlet that will be the first thing to get fixed anyways.

I had a NA 09 legacy before this and I only bought my LGT less than 2 weeks ago so I am still new to having a turbo and I am trying to learn as much as I can about them before I start buying anything to ensure I don't blow it up. 

That what I thought but after talking with guy I know at a jdm specific speed shop he said as long as the parts are similar to the cobb ones they would work just fine, cobb only says you need their parts since it's their brand and whatnot. He also did say I can get mail order tunes for my set up if i just call cobb but I'm not sure what the prossess would be for that and how much it would be. 

I am not sure if there is already a thread for this but I was unable to find anything to answer my questions.

Are the tunes I would install through a Cobb AP only compatible with cobb parts?

I want to Install a GS cold air, GS boost controller, GS bypass valve, Nameless catback with the 5" muffler, plus a some point UEL headers and catless downpipe. I don't want to buy these parts through Cobb because GS makes them with a design I like more and for cheaper and I have seen mixed messages on the compatibility with these parts and a AP. I spoke with someone through Cobb and they said I will need a Protune but there is nowhere local to me that would be able to give me a tune without it being way to expensive and from reading a bit on some other threads here the AP could work with these mods but I have also heard from other people adding K&N and other branded cold air intakes and then their GT won't idle but I haven't been able to find anything for the GS cold air. If anyone could clear this up for me so I don't waist money on parts I can't that would be greatly appreciated.