Cney

I think that the bushings are pretty much the same. I had the arms under the car to compare length but they seemed the same. Didn't check the bushings however so I'll do that before mounting the rears.

I'm using lube (copper grease). I wouldn't dare do the 50nm. Even 35 would be scary. I think I'm at 15/20 ish Nm. I'm gonna run it like that and check regularly. If they come loose I'm going to send it at the 28Nm.

I have another question, I hope y'all don't mind. The rear lower arms that I got with all the aluminium arms seem like the same stamped metal ones that are on my var right now. It has different coding stamped on them but they do seem exactly the same. Can anyone confirm they are? Because I'd rather leave the lower arms that are on the car if they are the same to not have to mess the alignment more than necessary on top of doing the extra work.

I'm lucky to work at a University as an instructor and having the mechanical engineering department as neighbors. They told me that although they have a shed of equipment/tools themselves that they rather use the shop at work. Can't blame them.

I am an engineer officially. But that's as far as I'll take that. I wouldn't dare get the dakka out for a bolt that goes into aluminium threads. The thought alone makes my rectum clinch up. That's what I did. My torque wrench set to the lowest 28nm was more than I was willing to take it. I used a good quality zink 8.8 hex bolt and self locking rings. Should be fine I think

Anyone have the torque spec on these 6 bolts?

So I caved. Didn't feel confident at all after hearing about the thickness of the bracket. I'm also the kind of man that rather have something over engineered than minimally engineered. So I ditched the bracket I made and went on to make a new one. This time drawing it up in actual cad and using 5mm steel plate cut on the waterjet. Cold zink sprayed and Matt black finished like the 2mm thick one. They came out better than the first one.

I'm replacing the end links regardless. Those are rusted stuck normally anyway. The fronts that I removed seemed like the originals and the hex holes stripped the moment they and the Allen key got acquainted. I had to get the big boy tools to get those off. Moog end links are pretty expensive and hard to come by over here. I just ordered decent OEM style from a reputable brand. Getting those aluminium arms and bushings was expensive enough for now. I'll get some better end links in the future.

Thanks, I've ordered m10x1.25x25mm and 30mm. Yes the 2 mm might seem thin. But the original bracket is about the same thickness but has less height. The 4.8mm of the Cusco bracket is overbuilt and my engineering colleague agreed. The 2mm in combination with the way it's folded and welded should be able to hold the forces of this bar on a street vehicle. The bracket of the front control arm is of the same thickness steel and has less bracing and that holds up fine. If not I'll fold a new one up in a thicker steel. I might add some wider steel washers to spread the load although I don't think it's necessary.

Thanks. They came out pretty good. 2mm thick zink plated steel bent up to shape and welded in both sides. My plan is to fit them tomorrow so I can see if guestimating the dimensions of the end link hole placement in the pictures with the measurements taken from the holes in the trailing armed panned out. I'll post pictures of it when done. Making them blue would have been cool but all I had was semigloss black. Makes it look OEM and I like that for this simple bracket. Plus I already have red poly bushes so that would be a little much. My next plan is to also make it's companion bracket like the Cusco set. The one that holds the roll bar to the chassis. Same idea. Get thicker metal and borrow their design.

10x1.25 makes more sense. I've found the Subaru parts code but can't find any data on the thread pitch. I'm heading to the parts store tomorrow. I need a new boot on the rear and clamps for the fronts (because those OEM ones tend to leak on these legacy's). I also need a boot for the steering tie rod end because that one's cracked and failed the MOT because of it so I can get a fitting bolt there too. If they're cheap enough I'll buy 1.25 and 1.5 thread pitch bolts.

Thanks for al the help on the bolts. I've been driving a new sway bar end link in a hole and it seems to be going in smooth. That would seem that it's M10x1.5 but I'll have to Investigate further. I'm planning to put in a zinc flaked flange head brake caliper bolt of some car in it. That has to be plenty strong. Goo to know that I could have that bracket. But I have no clue what that's from but it's not what I was looking for. I did some picture comparing and measuring of the Cusco bracket, did some Cardboard aided design and came up with these after a day of using the equipment of our mechanical engineering academy.

I have the arms yes. And I meant the bolts on the arm between the hub and front bushing. Those are bigger than the ABS sensor one. Had them apart yesterday when I noticed I was missing a bracket for the sway bar, DOH! I'll measure the hole. But as to specs, same kind of stainless, same pitch, same head?

I'm kind of late to the party. But does anyone know what bolt is used on the sway bar bracket trailing arm side? I need six bolts and they look like the same bolts as used to hold the brake lines to the arm but not sure. Can someone give me the part nr or specs of the bolt? Preferably in metric. I'm probably making this bracket out of steel myself using a lot of photos. The Cusco part is harder to come by and pretty expensive. Plus I should have all the dimensions when measuring the old steel arm and it's not a problem if it's a little off I think.

9 and 11 are also left

I've got 8 and 12 extra after getting aluminium arms front and rear from Japan.

If not I'm able to have a set made in a CNC machine at my place of work if OP was willing to share the files.

Hey, It's been a year and I'm wondering if these brackets/conversion kit are close to release or released?

Hey, Im interested in this grill. Does it fit the European Legacy facelift? And what's the color on there? Is it already painted or is it just the plastic that's shiny?