Infamous1

hmmm...I am starting to think my 11.6 target on E85 may be too rich.

I'd say so....

How many washers did you need to use to get the line to clear at the banjo fitting at the turbo? I'm using two for my FP line as long as the connector is perfectly parallel to the turbo housing. It would be nice if someone came up with a banjo fitting that would clear the housing without stacking washers. Just my two cents and I don't need to tell you what that is worth.

It sounds like you need this kit, I will let Mike explain though

Same here. Would love to see a few logs.

 

I wish Infamous would plot my numbers using the same spreadsheet, hint hint

 

Nice set-up and numbers btw. Would love to have access to e85

I plotted this one because I was curious myself, very pleased. Your car is a 5eat and the data seems to not work with me in most cases .

You would be amazed how many times I get asked questions about BOV/BPV's. Its nothing for you. They dont require tuning, LOL.

Oh I have explained more times than I like as well!

Far as I know, the ECU drops IAM when it sees lots of learned knock correction. It uses feedback correction for knock in conditions that probably aren't important, and that's where you're seeing the -9 in that log.

 

Again, have you tried turning down timing to see if that helps?

Rough correction can be applied at any time. I have seen IAM change a number of times without previous FLKC or FBKC.

Spins all 4 new RE01r's in third gear when you roll into it.Dont let the graphfool you, it pulls all the way to the 8000 RPM redline. he let off at 7K

Thats some big power there, much props...

Here is a thought. How about I fill up with 94 octane or even 100 and see if there is ANY knock at all. I mean I know we are dealing with winter gas and all, but if there still is knock, shouldn't this tell us there is something mechanically wrong, such as a knock sensor acting up or another component making the sensor think there is knock?

That usually doesn't take affect in WOT runs. It seems your car has been running this way for months now. You are seriously putting your engine at risk with all the consistant knock events at high loads.

Will street tuner software work on a Protune map? I just want to install ST and tweak a base Protuner map.

 

Thanks

No

^^^

Had a customer experience the same problem recently, turned out to be the connectivity between Ecuflash and the cable (possibly drivers???). It would never connect to the ecu via ECUFlash however worked fine with Romraider.

So why would a slightly higher WGDC be better? I just ordered a 1mm pill, but I think I'll pick up a 1.2 also since the dealer has them in stock.

It gives the ECU and TD more room to apply adjustments without over/under boosting but still meets your needs to appropriate boost. However I find the 1mm pill is fine for most vehicles.

So what would keep the IAM from popping up to 1.0 ? Mine usually will pop up from .70(.6895?) to .9#(.9285?) to 1.0 within a few blocks and a couple blips of the pedal, but sometimes after an ECU reset(even while car is warm); I can drive for miles without a knock or anything and it just won't pop up to 1. WTF? BTW these are know "good" or "clean" maps too.

You haven't met the treholds for the rough correction to change. The most important things to remeber is your car must be at operating temp and in boost.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302047

2007 5MT on CA91 octane.

Blouch Dominator 2.5R "Polka Pickle" ball bearing turbo

Deatschwerks 750cc injectors

Walbro 255 LPH

Prodrive BCS

Perrin FMIC

Tial 50mm BOV

AVO intake

3" Autospeed CB

3" Megan Racing DP

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/androofoo/sc00105ac9.jpg

 

344WHP/338WTQ @ 17PSI

Nice results but 17psi is WAY too low for that turbo.

Mine seems to run a little better than it should also... I need to get a protune to see what it can actually do.

That's what everyone thinks until they get walked at the track .