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Properly installed the security system is still intact. It only bypasses the transponder system when the car is remotely started. This means if you tried to jam a screw driver in the ignition switch and got it to turn the car would not start. If you hot wired the car it would not start and the steering wheel lock would still be engaged. If you tryed to use a 5 dollar key the car would still not start. Now this stuff only works if the bypass is installed properly which includes- -valet key has had teeth ground down or removed -key is securely placed in bypass module and hidden in car to make it difficult to get to At this point, if someone wanted to steal your car, they would have to tear half the dash apart to find a modified key, screwed into a little black box, break that apart, then somehow break the ignition switch, so they can turn it and defeat the steering lock, while holding the key head within a 1/4" of the switch they just tore up. While not impossible, my guess is if someone wanted your car that bad they would just flat bed it away. Tom

Hey CarPC guys! I've been following this thread for awhile and am impressed with the things you guys have pulled off-even though I understand only about 10% of it:) Anyway, I was at a small 12v show in PA this weekend and came across a piece I thought was pretty cool. It looks like something I might give a try whem it ships in May. Here's a link http://www.azentek.com/webpages/atlas.html What do you think? price will be @ $2400 Is it worth it? Thanks, Tom

Just a couple PM's:lol: Very glad you posted daswrx, your origanal thread really helped and inspired me to get mine done. Thank You Tom

I put my wife's XM ant. under the rear glass spoiler on her 2.5i wagon. She gets great reception, I'd go that route if I drove the wagon. Tom

Thanks darkfox. I thought about doing what you described above but I'd always be worried about something failing. If I charged someone to do a job and later on down the road say a connection goes bad and that person lives 1000 miles away they would have to rip the whole package out and send it to me to trouble shoot. That would leave that person without a working HVAC system until the problem was resolved. And the only way to test if I've either completed a new working unit or fixed a defective one is to test it in my car..PITA BTW (knock on wood) mine has been working perfect. Lets all hope TDC comes through with their replacement piece! TOM

YES!

No, you should'nt watch movies while driving and the factory screen has lock outs in place to stop this from working. That being said I'm sure there is a way around it but I would'nt know anything about doing it. Tom

no problems seeing the display, even in pass. seat. The buttons on the Z1 "feel" like they are in the right spot, easy to reach. Tom

Thanks Brian

Sorry, I won't do the radio hack for anyone. It's not that I don't want to help anyone out but- 1)way to much down time for someones car-about 2 weeks 2)not cost effective-2 weeks labor about $4000 3)can't guarentee it's going to work flawless forever. I would wait for TDC's fix.

1)I mounted the z1 using the factory brackets. Did'nt have to rework them too much, just had to move the radio up about 1/4" by redrilling the mounting holes. 2)I used some laminate strips around the z1's face to give me the proper size of the opening in the trim panel. Basically this gave me about 1/8" gap around the z1's face plate. Taped the hell out of it and mounted back into the dash. 3)Cut the oem trim panel out to accomedate the new radio, plus the laminate, plus a little wiggle room. The little cuts I made around the old knob and button holes are there to give the filler some more surface area to attach to. Used some more laminate behind the knob and button holes so the filler would'nt fall into the abyss. 4) Taped everthing I did not want filler to stick to. Then mounted front trim using factory mounts 5)Smashed filler into open holes and all around radio. Good idea to do small sections at a time and be patient. 6)After filler dried I pulled it all apart, filler should'nt stick to tape, just to the plastic of the oem trim. 7)sanded the excess off. filled some pin holes and voids with more filler. 8)sanded 9)sanded 10)sanded 11)did I mention sanding? 12)used a high build primer on the whole piece and then sanded some more 13)painted the whole piece and sanded between coats. Filler-SEM 39492 NO SWELL PLASTIC PANEL FILLER Paint-SEM 39253 Med Titanium Bumper Coat The paint was about 1/2 a shade off from the factory color so I painted the trim around the shift boot and ashtray so it all matched.

Thank eveyone for the positive feedback. Don't hesitate with any other questions. Tom

Yup, works fine through the plastic, used body tape to stick it. Tom

Post #8 in this tread

OEM nav IMHO sucked ballz.

It can be done without the factory nav. Really no difference with the radio/HVAC part of the install.

I have an Autostart AS-2300TW. It's a 2-way non-lcd remote start that I have intgrated with my factory alarm with a SUBDL module from www.bypasskit.com The SUBDL basically makes the Autostart mimic what the factory alarm does using just the Autostart remote. It will work with either the Viper or Clifford units which are both great systems. Hope this helps. Tom

The GPS ant. is under the dash pad, behind the inst. cluster, I reused the factory mount.(sorry, no pics) The XM ant is under the hood trim. I thougt about placing it somewhere in the rear window but my tint would probally kill it. Tom

only one nav, the avic-z1, but I can display it on both screens. I wanted to keep my oem screen because, even with the factory nav removed I still retain all of the original info functions, outside temp, mpg, trip info, factory alarm controls, etc. Tom

I put my xm ant. under the plastic trim of the hood scoop. The pics above show wre I ran the wire. I used dynamat extreme to attach the wire until I got to were the washer fluid hoses run on the driver's side and followed those into the engine bay. FYI-I get great recption with the ant. mounted here, unless I'm driving east, away from the sats. Then its a little choppy, but a I'd rather have a little less reception than an ant. mounted in plain view anywhere on my car.

Dual back up camera screens, the z1 I can watch while driving The back up camera I used was from BOYO. It came with a gloss black finish so I painted the frame body color. I drilled one hole in the plastic trim of the bumper (part with badges on it) were the center pop clip was between the 2 top licence plate mount holes. This is were the wires for the back up camera are going through. That new hole lines up with the hole were the pop clip was going through the metal portion of the trunk lid. I used the supplied rubber grommet in the metal hole and ran the wires along with the factory ones down the passenger side trunk support

Hello all, Before we begin, I started this project about 4 days before the jdm dual HVAC thread started. I already had the circut board cut and there was no turning back. That being said I hope TDC comes through with a real world solution because this was very hard. I do not recommend trying this unless you have done stuff like this before and have the time and patience. I have about 60 hours into the HVAC relocation and avic-z1 install alone. All in all it was a fun project. ENJOY! avic-z1 installed avic-z1 with oem screen I can mirror whatever image is displayed on the z1 to show on the oem screen. As of now I can't show the nav from the z1 on the oem screen while the z1 shows my AV sources, but I,m working on it. Some pics of the circut board cut This is the top half of the circut board wired and mounted in the car. I used cables to link it to the bottom half that is attached to the front trim panel. This is the back of the radio trim with the HVAC controls mounted, wired and ready to plug into the cables in the car I made. I made the mounts out of ABS plastic. All together there were 49 connections between the top and bottom circut boards and 22 more connections that go from the bottom circut board box to the main radio circut board under the drivers seat. This is the main circut board from the oem radio. The 6-disc changer was removed and not used again. The board is mounted in an ABS box using the mounts from my oem nav brain. Along with the 22 connections from the top half of the circut board that is mounted below the z1 I also had to extend and run the rest of the wires that were plugged into the back of the oem radio. More pics coming of back up camera, xm install, and the making of the trim panel.