yellowspirit

6 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

I tried heater hose once, had to replace it a few months later when it started leaking because the oil was eating it up.

I would only go with OEM or oil resistant hose, it's not something I would want to return to fix again.

I ended up ordering the OE hose - they had them in stock at the dealer.  For $10, I don't want to have to remove the turbo (again) to un-f my work.  $10 to not have that problem again... TAKE MY MONEY.

31 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Considering how cheap it is for the OE or a mahle equivalent, I don't think I'd risk it.

More than likely the rubber itself would hold up to the heat/oil, but I did my turbo drain hose not so long ago, and aside from it being a nightmare to get clamps on it once it was in place, it was noteably a fairly firm peice of hose, that I think would be pretty hard to kink somehow.

Usually heater hose is reasonably malleable, and I'd worry about it kinking when it got up to turbo/oil temps....

Yes...

The best way to access the lower clamp is from underneath the car through the space of the downpipe it seems.

I may just order another OE hose.

On 11/28/2019 at 10:49 AM, DaveWaters said:

The drain pipe on the bottom of the turbo is slightly angled. Iirc it needs to angle toward the front of the car. If it faces back it won’t line up. If you removed it to seal the flange I’d double check its orientation.

This looks to be my problem...

On 12/3/2019 at 8:38 PM, dwmccauley01 said:

Just though I would share some stuff I found.

 

Oil (with filter) and coolant banjo bolt gasket:

 

1/2" diameter.

P/N at oreilys was H9461 for a pack of 10 for $6

Or

P/N H9452-2 pack of 2 for $ 1.79 (there are slightly thicker)

 

Oil banjo bolt on turbo:

 

Any 25/64" copper gasket

P/N at oreilys 66272 for pack of 2 at $3.49

 

Oil Return line is 5/8", a truck and machinery place should have oil & fuel line that size $5 a foot. To make installing turbo a little easier you could cut a length the same as th old line and use oil to get it into place. I left the line on side going into the crank case for a bit to help stretch it out.

 

The oil return gasket should be same as any turbo with a similar outlet, I used a beaded steel one from mahle, P/N B32315 at $5

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my VS501 using Tapatalk

Would a heater hose work?  I have my doubts because water/coolant vs. oil/fuel are different...

https://www.autozone.com/heating-and-cooling/universal-radiator-heater-hose/p/continental-5-8in-heater-hose-sold-per-foot/4950_0_0

On 9/15/2023 at 9:13 PM, ncbill said:

What is the pot mod?

Last summer I noticed the A/C on my 2005 Legacy i was cutting on and off...cool air followed by warm air followed by cool air.

Had it recharged at my independent shop but now see the below behavior:

This summer it seems to work when the engine is cold or even at operating temperature (clutch spinning merrily) for a brief period before cutting off and then only blowing warm air...I park it, leave it running to check and the clutch is no longer spinning.

Checked the clutch gap with feeler gauges and I think it's within specs...0.03 fits but 0.03 & 0.032 together don't.

So, what should I check next...relay, high/low pressure sensor/switches?

Have the shop check refrigerant charge & expansion valve?

 

I had this issue on a 2014 Forester.  I first replaced the expansion valve and AC relay.  After those 2 less expensive parts, I replaced the AC compressor and condenser.  The last 2 fixed the problem.

I'm not great at diagnosis... I'm much better at parts cannon.

On 7/9/2023 at 6:10 PM, subaru-tech said:

If you have a sunroof, it is possible the drain is blocked or came off the sunroof

This was my issue - driver's side footwell though.  I bought tubing from Home Depot and replaced the sunroof drain tubes in all 4 corners.  It's dry inside now.

So I think the issue is that over time the factory tubing loses it's elasticity and doesn't seal the round plastic sunroof drain tube.  The new tubing from Home Depot goes over the round plastic sunroof drain tube and seals better.  The water doesn't leak from this point anymore.

It seems like the detailed parts diagrams for my 2008 Subaru Legacy GT disappeared off this site.  Whenever you try to expand a sub category, the content appears to no longer be available:

https://parts.subaru.com/Subaru_2008_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan.html

Does anyone have an alternative?

On 12/12/2022 at 4:04 PM, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

So seeing as how most of the “ideal fun daily” suspension threads on here are at least 5+ years old (mostly I’ve found 10 + years) I thought I’d start a new one to update. Been exploring options and there’s not much I’ve found, mostly cause the aftermarket for our cars is dwindling due to age of our platform. I came to the party pretty late, but still want to have some fun. What are people running and how does it feel? What I’m thinking is Koni adjustables and STi pinks in front and king springs in rear. Don’t really want swifts cause I don’t want a lot of drop and still want to maintain cargo utility. H&R only make springs for sedans (fronts work for wagons) and ion seems to be the only other option available anymore besides pinks and swifts (plus I don’t want to but a new set of springs only to use half). Anyone else have any recommendations? 

FYI, I'm using the Swift wagon springs on my sedan and the rear end doesn't sag.  Other than that, I have Bilstein B6 struts/shocks.  It rides better than my 2014 335i RWD with Ohlins R&T for daily driving.

49 minutes ago, m sprank said:

In a pinch you do what you have to do.  There was a time when auto parts stores sold good, reliable parts.  There was even a hierarchy of quality with NAPA normally being on top.  You could call around town and get 5 different prices on a set of brake pad from 5 different stores.  Unfortunately those days are gone.  OEM tends to be the best quality, by far, for most parts. 

I ran into this problem last year with my 335i's engine that self-ventilated through the bottom and took out the steering rack at VIR.

We went through 2 used engines that were complete junk before we decided to buy a new N55 from BMW.  Only then was it good to go.

This experience will also affect the make/model of vehicle that I purchase next.  At this point, I'm only considering domestic brands because when you have a catastrophic powertrain failure, only their replacement part costs are low enough that it wouldn't be worth my time dealing with the hassle of a used engine/transmission.

3 minutes ago, m sprank said:

Could not afford to warranty the labor using "auto parts store" parts.  Lifetime warranty with free replacements on the parts sounds great until you have to keep replacing them for free. 

The price difference between the RockAuto master cylinder and the Subaru master cylinder was insignificant.  Maybe a 20% premium for Subaru.  Well worth not having to do the job again.

However, this was bought months ago when the RockAuto master cylinder was in stock and ready to ship.  I had been waiting 3-5 weeks for each Subaru parts order I submitted at the time.  Fortunately, it seems supply chain problems are subsiding as almost all of my Subaru orders are ready for pickup within a week.

So turns out the fix was a genuine Subaru brake master cylinder.  The one I bought months ago from RockAuto was junk.

You figure if manufacturers are having quality issues, how bad is it for the aftermarket?

2 hours ago, JamesArnold said:

According to https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/brake-line-diameter.509271/

3/16 in. is the line. 

Fittings are inverted flare M10x1.0 thread.

 

 

I think it might be different for the master cylinder (versus the junction block).  I say this because I had to deal with the junction block at the rear of the Legacy GT because my brake pipes corroded and leaked.

But the brake pipe going from the master cylinder to ABS module looks of different diameter than the four individual brake pipes going from the ABS module to each corner of the car.

Does anyone know the thread pitch and size specs for the brake line fittings on the Subaru master cylinder?  Asking because it may allow me not to waste so much brake fluid while bench bleeding a MC?

On 4/16/2023 at 2:26 PM, RumblyXT said:

Hmm.. yeah I’m not sure I agree with that. if that had been the case, his brake booster would have probably worked ok.

 

I will say that I'm not sure the brake booster is the problem either.  I've been parts cannoning the shit out of this.  It might even be the master cylinder (a new one from RockAuto may be the issue).  I've ordered a genuine Subaru one as a replacement.

On 4/17/2023 at 12:42 PM, RumblyXT said:

This statement leads me to think you were mistaken. How could it be “all the same in the end”? Is this your approach to machinery too? Each peep should have its corresponding destination..

I listed two sources: the diagram and that guy’s video. So you’re saying they’re both wrong?

It can be really confusing with all these vacuum hoses entanglement.. why is it so difficult for some to say I was wrong.. because I have absolutely no problem at all with it. We’re only human and in the end we’re here to help each other out not to bash or look down on others.

I will say that the length and bend of the new PCV valve hose seems to go right into the metal fitting instead of the other plastic fitting.

Is it possible this part of the intake manifold design changed between the 05-06 and 07-09 cars?

On 4/17/2023 at 7:59 AM, m sprank said:

If you cant recognize that the hose you are trying to fit to a nipple is too small and the force required too great, maybe you should not be working on machinery.  Just because there is a You Tube video or a diagram  does not mean you are skilled enough to accomplish the task properly.  

It didn't seem like it took much effort at all to fit that hose onto the metal fitting.  It literally slid right on there.

9 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

I don't think that's right.

The other end of the hose that connects to A goes to "Fig 261", which is the figure for the brake booster: https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54106_6022650/BRAKE-PIPING-FRONT-WITH-OUT-VDC/B13-265-01.html

 

That's why I think you guys are right and I probably connected the hoses incorrectly.  The PCV hose can be physically forced onto that metal fitting but it looks ballooned out so that's why I think I'm wrong.  And that may be causing the braking system to function incorrectly as it was.

On 3/27/2023 at 7:31 PM, silverton said:

I'm pretty confident that's the fitting for the brake booster hose

7 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Yep, I just walked out and checked my 09. Brake booster hose.

Are you guys sure - the metal fitting?  I guess it's possible I messed this up when I was reassembling the intake manifold.  Perhaps I connected the vacuum hoses to the wrong fittings and that's why all my brake calipers were locking up.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6026546/INTAKE-MANIFOLD-INTAKEMANIFOLD-BODY--PCV-PIPE-07MY-/B13-050-22.html

What connects to the small (plastic) fitting of the 3?  I suppose it's actually "1AD21" - the vacuum hose coming off the PCV since it's not labeled as either "A" or "B".

5 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

Looks like it's part of the manifold on the parts diagram.

Looks like it's removable though, why are you looking to replace it?

I was going to replace it if it was something like the PCV because I'm diagnosing an issue that may be caused by the vacuum system for the brakes.

However, I did remove it and it's literally just a simple connector. So I'm no longer going to replace it.

Does anyone know if the connection on the back of the intake manifold is replaceable or is it part of the intake manifold?

2008 Subaru Legacy GT 5EAT.

I seem unable to find it on the 3 most associated parts diagrams.  Maybe I'm looking at the wrong parts diagram.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6026548/INTAKE-MANIFOLD-INTAKEMANIFOLD-SYSTEM--THROTTLE-07MY-/B13-050-21.html

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6026546/INTAKE-MANIFOLD-INTAKEMANIFOLD-BODY--PCV-PIPE-07MY-/B13-050-22.html

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6026428/INTAKE-MANIFOLD-FUEL-PIPE--FUEL-INJECTOR-07MY-/B13-050-23.html

Quick question... are the TGVs on the passenger side and driver's side for the car identical?  It appears the part number is the same but I can't discern the difference visually.  What would happen if someone swapped them during an install?

8 hours ago, ssbtech said:

 

Alright, my fix for the silly thing was to use a wing nut and two nuts on the bolt, jam it all together and then rotate the win nut to tighten the bolt.  There was simply no way to get even the smallest of screwdrivers where it needed to be to get to the head of the bolt.  Fuel drip fixed.

I was removing my intake manifold on my 2007-2008 for the first time and some of those clamps are hard to access with a screw driver.  I'll have to position them better so the intake manifold removal is much easier the next time around.

10 hours ago, m sprank said:

You can remove the manifold while leaving the pipe. I did it once. It was such an awful event I only did it once. It is FAR easier to remove as an assembly and then remove the fuel pipes from the manifold. The fuel pipes are bolted to the bottom of the manifold between the TB and the ebcs.    

I ended up removing the entire thing as an assembling and the fuel injectors came out with it... much more complicated on a 2007-2008.

On 9/2/2022 at 5:03 PM, m sprank said:

Details of the fuel rail and then sitting with the manifold.

The metal fuel pipe assembly will have to come off as well as the intake manifold on 2007-2008 LGTs right?

On 11/1/2022 at 6:00 PM, Jags said:

Mods please delete if you want to, but I found out I missed the EGR tube don't know how I missed it. 

Don't delete - it may be useful for someone else who misses the EGR tube as well.

On 1/26/2018 at 1:22 PM, l88m22vette said:

You only need to take off the top plastic part of the manifold, that's much easier, you can even unbolt it and simply loosen some of the wiring and hoses to tilt it back (instead of totally disconnecting and taking it off). This should be a pretty small job, you'll need to take off the TMIC and maybe the turbo inlet, but otherwise keep it simple since you're only working on the clamp itself.

 

OR, throw some mods on while its apart

I think the procedure is not exactly the same for 2005-2006 LGT and 2007-2009 LGT.  The fuel pipes are not the same.  I think for 2007-2009, you have to take the TGV, fuel line/rail, etc. off with the intake manifold as an assembly.