yellowspirit

I ended up ordering the OE hose - they had them in stock at the dealer. For $10, I don't want to have to remove the turbo (again) to un-f my work. $10 to not have that problem again... TAKE MY MONEY.

Yes... The best way to access the lower clamp is from underneath the car through the space of the downpipe it seems. I may just order another OE hose.

This looks to be my problem...

Would a heater hose work? I have my doubts because water/coolant vs. oil/fuel are different... https://www.autozone.com/heating-and-cooling/universal-radiator-heater-hose/p/continental-5-8in-heater-hose-sold-per-foot/4950_0_0

I had this issue on a 2014 Forester. I first replaced the expansion valve and AC relay. After those 2 less expensive parts, I replaced the AC compressor and condenser. The last 2 fixed the problem. I'm not great at diagnosis... I'm much better at parts cannon.

This was my issue - driver's side footwell though. I bought tubing from Home Depot and replaced the sunroof drain tubes in all 4 corners. It's dry inside now. So I think the issue is that over time the factory tubing loses it's elasticity and doesn't seal the round plastic sunroof drain tube. The new tubing from Home Depot goes over the round plastic sunroof drain tube and seals better. The water doesn't leak from this point anymore.

It seems like the detailed parts diagrams for my 2008 Subaru Legacy GT disappeared off this site. Whenever you try to expand a sub category, the content appears to no longer be available: https://parts.subaru.com/Subaru_2008_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan.html Does anyone have an alternative?

FYI, I'm using the Swift wagon springs on my sedan and the rear end doesn't sag. Other than that, I have Bilstein B6 struts/shocks. It rides better than my 2014 335i RWD with Ohlins R&T for daily driving.

I ran into this problem last year with my 335i's engine that self-ventilated through the bottom and took out the steering rack at VIR. We went through 2 used engines that were complete junk before we decided to buy a new N55 from BMW. Only then was it good to go. This experience will also affect the make/model of vehicle that I purchase next. At this point, I'm only considering domestic brands because when you have a catastrophic powertrain failure, only their replacement part costs are low enough that it wouldn't be worth my time dealing with the hassle of a used engine/transmission.

The price difference between the RockAuto master cylinder and the Subaru master cylinder was insignificant. Maybe a 20% premium for Subaru. Well worth not having to do the job again. However, this was bought months ago when the RockAuto master cylinder was in stock and ready to ship. I had been waiting 3-5 weeks for each Subaru parts order I submitted at the time. Fortunately, it seems supply chain problems are subsiding as almost all of my Subaru orders are ready for pickup within a week.

So turns out the fix was a genuine Subaru brake master cylinder. The one I bought months ago from RockAuto was junk. You figure if manufacturers are having quality issues, how bad is it for the aftermarket?

I think it might be different for the master cylinder (versus the junction block). I say this because I had to deal with the junction block at the rear of the Legacy GT because my brake pipes corroded and leaked. But the brake pipe going from the master cylinder to ABS module looks of different diameter than the four individual brake pipes going from the ABS module to each corner of the car.

Does anyone know the thread pitch and size specs for the brake line fittings on the Subaru master cylinder? Asking because it may allow me not to waste so much brake fluid while bench bleeding a MC?

I will say that I'm not sure the brake booster is the problem either. I've been parts cannoning the shit out of this. It might even be the master cylinder (a new one from RockAuto may be the issue). I've ordered a genuine Subaru one as a replacement.

I will say that the length and bend of the new PCV valve hose seems to go right into the metal fitting instead of the other plastic fitting. Is it possible this part of the intake manifold design changed between the 05-06 and 07-09 cars? It didn't seem like it took much effort at all to fit that hose onto the metal fitting. It literally slid right on there.

That's why I think you guys are right and I probably connected the hoses incorrectly. The PCV hose can be physically forced onto that metal fitting but it looks ballooned out so that's why I think I'm wrong. And that may be causing the braking system to function incorrectly as it was.

Are you guys sure - the metal fitting? I guess it's possible I messed this up when I was reassembling the intake manifold. Perhaps I connected the vacuum hoses to the wrong fittings and that's why all my brake calipers were locking up. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6026546/INTAKE-MANIFOLD-INTAKEMANIFOLD-BODY--PCV-PIPE-07MY-/B13-050-22.html What connects to the small (plastic) fitting of the 3? I suppose it's actually "1AD21" - the vacuum hose coming off the PCV since it's not labeled as either "A" or "B".

I was going to replace it if it was something like the PCV because I'm diagnosing an issue that may be caused by the vacuum system for the brakes. However, I did remove it and it's literally just a simple connector. So I'm no longer going to replace it.

Does anyone know if the connection on the back of the intake manifold is replaceable or is it part of the intake manifold? 2008 Subaru Legacy GT 5EAT. I seem unable to find it on the 3 most associated parts diagrams. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong parts diagram. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6026548/INTAKE-MANIFOLD-INTAKEMANIFOLD-SYSTEM--THROTTLE-07MY-/B13-050-21.html https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6026546/INTAKE-MANIFOLD-INTAKEMANIFOLD-BODY--PCV-PIPE-07MY-/B13-050-22.html https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6026428/INTAKE-MANIFOLD-FUEL-PIPE--FUEL-INJECTOR-07MY-/B13-050-23.html

Quick question... are the TGVs on the passenger side and driver's side for the car identical? It appears the part number is the same but I can't discern the difference visually. What would happen if someone swapped them during an install?

I was removing my intake manifold on my 2007-2008 for the first time and some of those clamps are hard to access with a screw driver. I'll have to position them better so the intake manifold removal is much easier the next time around.

I ended up removing the entire thing as an assembling and the fuel injectors came out with it... much more complicated on a 2007-2008.

The metal fuel pipe assembly will have to come off as well as the intake manifold on 2007-2008 LGTs right?

Don't delete - it may be useful for someone else who misses the EGR tube as well.

I think the procedure is not exactly the same for 2005-2006 LGT and 2007-2009 LGT. The fuel pipes are not the same. I think for 2007-2009, you have to take the TGV, fuel line/rail, etc. off with the intake manifold as an assembly.