Phosoup253

Just went and looked at the turbo. It was a replica. Might just get a Vf52. Any recommendation for a good E-tuner? Shop near my house charging $600 for a dyno tune which is fair but I don’t want to that route quite yet.

Have first dibs on a 2006 OBXT 5eat part out. Originally went to see if I can snag the turbo because the owner said it was recently replaced, but sure enough it was one of them replicas. Was able to snag a few other parts but was wondering if anything was worthwhile or an upgrade for my 2005 Legacy GT. It has the factory black leather interior which looks to be in great condition and heater functioning. Only issue is the motor on passenger side is not working. And, how difficult would it be to get the power seats to work on my non powered legacy wagon.

Also, any thoughts about up pipe upgrade? Maybe the stock catless 06-07 Wrx/Sti. Heard ours had the factory cat and don’t want that grenading. Would that require a tune?

Due to hardship, I’m forced to sell my current daily driver which is a 2018 Camry xse that I’ve owned since it was brand new. I have absolutely zero intentions nor am I looking for any type of power with this car as of right now. Just looking to get to point A to point B as reliable and efficient as possible. I do have big plans for the car in the future which is why I don’t want to sell and get another DD. Hopefully by summer it can be weekend warrior again and I can start building the car like I initially planned.

If everything goes according to plan, I might actually be up $100 in the deal with essentially a free vf40 if I play my cards right with a trade I have lined up. The car definitely feels “stock” “sluggish”, but then again i never dove a bone stock Subaru so I don’t have anything to reference off of.

Bought my 2005 legacy gt wagon with an “oem style” vf40. (Will post pic below) Recently replaced the motor with a lower mileage ej255 w/ 50k. Although the car seems to run fine with the replica turbo, I’d feel much better if I knew I had the correct turbo the car came with before I start daily driving this car, which leads me to my next question. How terrible are the stock vf40? What if I got my hands on a good condition low mileage one? I know most would recommend just upgrading to the vf46 or vf52, but I’m in no position to start going down this rabbit hole of mods and spending all this money on a tune when I don’t have all the supporting mods yet. I’m planning to get an AP and throwing a stage 1 ots as I’ve heard they’re a more efficient than stock. So, any input on the oem ihi vf40 if I plan to run bone stock for a while? Preventative maintenance on the turbo if any? Known failure points to look for when buying?

Bought my 2005 Legacy GT with an “oem style” turbo replacement. Not exactly sure how the last turbo failed, but previous owner paid $1300 for what he thought was an OEM IHI Vf42 turbo only to find out later that it was not. Car spun a bearing only few hundred miles later which is why I’m making this post. I got a replacement motor and instead of a brand new oem turbo, I found what’s seems to be an “oem style replacement”. After dealing with some other issues I had non related to this topic, I finally got it all buttoned up and took it for its first long test drive. Car drove absolutely fine, but I will say, it feels “sluggish”. Threw some octane booster because it did sat for a few months so we can rule out bad fuel. Car is bone stock and I intend to keep that way until I can source a vf52 along with a few other of the supporting mods and a real tune. My question is, do I need a tune asap or am I fine running it this way?

Yeah I swapped them to my side lights on the tail lights and bulbs seems to work just fine.

2005 legacy gt wagon Comfirmed that my bulbs were fine, don’t know why my reverse light would not work. I don’t see a fuse for it so what gives? Anybody have same issue, this a common problem? Solution to this?

I truly feel there’s something not entirely right either with the clutch assembly/install or still work air in the system. I haven’t tried bleeding the clutch master cylinder yet, anybody have why advice or tips on how to go about that?

Edit. I did one more bleeding cycle on the slave cylinder and was able to get a full clutch and was also able to take the car on a successful test drive. I was able to upshift through all the gears and downshift through all the gears. My only concern now is I do here a slight chatter while engaging the clutch around 3k rpm and the car would stall out randomly. I can’t seem to mimic the stalling every time, but I’m noticing it more after coasting in neutral and engaging into a gear.

I bled the slave cylinder one last time and now I’m not experiencing any issue. Car seems to drive fine for the short time I drove it, now I’m only concern about the amount of play the fork has.

Here’s old clutch fork and spring for reference on how I installed it. It’s almost impossible to flip them around even if I tried. I’m certain I got them on the correct way.

The motor spun a bearing shortly after the clutch was replaced by the previous owner. I did confirm that the clutch/pressure plate and flywheel were new. Unfortunately I do not know the brand so I cannot contact the manufacturer. I was just curious if that amount of play on the fork were acceptable so I can ruled out installation error and focus on the lines and whatnot.

IMG_7329.MOV

Clutch pedal is sinking to floor and gets stuck in gear, would have to pull clutch pedal back manually to get car out out of gear. This would only happen with the car on and trying to drive. With the car off, clutch travel feels great and as normal as it should. Slave cylinder has been bled, but not sure if all air is out though. I did recently had an issue with the clutch fork popping out pivot ball so took the entire motor back out and ended up replacing new throw out bearing and clutch fork while I was in there. Car randomly stalls while trying to take off, would need to over rev for it not to stall. Not sure if just clutch engagement issues or something entirely different like fuel. No cel light. Any way to verify if I have the clutch assembly on correct. First time installing these clutch, normally only work on the 02-07 Sti/Wrx push? Style. Car is 2005 legacy gt pics and a quick video below to see if there might be an installation error on my side.

Tabs clips on main harness was broken just enough to not fully seat but enough click into place so i assumed it was fully seated.Push harness as closely as I can and ziptied, now it’s making full contact. No more cel and car starts fine. Now I have clutch and possibly fuel pump issues, smdh. Will be making separate thread regarding my new issues.

Bought an auto 2005 lgt complete swap as a replacement for my 2005 lgt manual. I swapped my entire intake manifold engine harness included to try to keep things as original as possible to avoid and issues. Ironically, I believe I have a faulty ground somewhere in my original harness. Am I able to use the auto engine harness on my manual car without issues?

I was able to narrow down that the majority of the faulty codes were associated to connection B136 on the ecu harness. Also looks like pin 35 is the main source for the ground. That is about as far as I’ve got with my little to no knowledge when dealing with electrical. Does each connection have their own designated ground? If so, how do I trace it to make sure this ground is indeed grounded properly. 68010189031__E61078F8-5ADC-49FF-BC53-76C7B90E24C9.MOV

2005 LGT threw cel. Didn’t feel like getting an obd scanner from an auto part store so I did a quick search and from what I’ve read, you’re able to check the code with an accessport, does not matter if it’s married to the car or not. (Probably where I went wrong)Grabbed my AP from my 2006 WRX that’s it’s currently married to and plugged it into the LGT. Everything worked, was able to retrieve code, then I unplugged the AP. Cleaned my maf because it threw p0102, went to start the LGT to see if I corrected the issue and got no start. Battery, ground, etc everything is good. Car started just fine before I ran the code. Did i brick my ecu? I never plug or unplug my green connectors at any point nor did I attempt any type of flashing.It suddenly threw 9 codes simultaneously along with the crank no start which I find odd. P0108-Map sensor circuit high inputP0113-Intake temperature sensor circuit highP0118-Engine coolant temp circuit high inputP0123-TPS high inputP0223-Throttle pedal position sensor two high inputP2008-TGV signal one circuit malfunction (RH) (open)P2011-CGV signal circuit malfunction(LH)(open)P2016-TGV position sensor one circuit low(RH)P2021-TGV position sensor to circuit low (LH)