Boltonator

The 07-09 5MT single mass flywheel with the code 12342AA090 that is touted as the upgrade for the 05-06 sprung dual mass flywheel is a flexible type flywheel and not a 'solid' flywheel. I have a 2008 GT and its what I have. I might have gotten the explanation a bit wrong it seems to be about vibration management and shifting it outside of operating speeds. Its not fully solid like the 6 speeds seem to be

I think some information that is missing here is that there is a difference between the Single Mass Flywheel that comes stock on Subaru cars and a solid flywheel that you would likely buy as an aftermarket lightweight flywheel. The stock Subaru flywheel is what is called a 'Flexible' flywheel which has a hard rubber coupling in a sandwich between where it bolts to the rear of the crank, and the friction surface that the clutch cover is bolted to. These are manufactured to a patent by Valeo and the principle is that when the power strokes are at the max through the crank there is a certain amount of flex that can affect the flywheels geometry. The coupling is tuned to minimise that distortion and smooth engagement. An aftermarket solid flywheel doesn't have any of that comfort built in.

I have done this repair on my own car. I didn't separate the ball joint for mine, but I did remove the 32mm axle nut (with a screwdriver stuck in the brake caliper). I then marked the position of the top cambered nut on the lower strut mounting to the hub, undone the brake and ABS brackets, removed the bolts and got the hub to swing forward enough to remove the entire CV. I did have an issue where when I removed the CV I nicked the Axle seal on that side and had a small gear oil leak for about 500km. Don't just yank the CV out, use a small pry bar to pop it out a little then remove it gently. As for why I risked stuff pulling the CV, I just didn't want to do the repair under the car. I replaced that axle seal with a mallet and the original seal and with the new boot the axle has been good thus far.

I couldn't get much out of your video sorry, but I do have a ticking sound on my car that is within the RPM band that you specified in your post. I checked absolutely everything and narrowed it down to a loose wastegate actuator rod on my car. That band is where the actuator of the wastegate is starting to open to control boost when the turbo spools up. My turbo is a stock IHI VF45 of about 130,000kms. I could only initially induce the noise after I had been on boost in a previous pull and then tried to put the throttle down in low RPMs. It drove me mad especially in summer with the windows down. What nailed it for me is that I could wiggle the actuator rod with pliers when the engine was off and then drive down the road and the noise would happen in that RPM range for a couple of accelerations until the engine vacuum stuck the wastegate arm shut again. I haven't done anything to remedy it but at least I know that I'm not making my engine detonate.