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Subarcharged

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  1. Can you set it in 4th and a higher rpm? Is the neutral switch on the transmission tight? Wire good? Look to see if your clutch pedal has a grommet in a hole where the neutral switch or brake switch shaft hits the pedal. Either one of these will cancel CC if the switch is activated. If there's a hole and a rotted grommet, put something else in there made of plastic. If your pedal doesn't have the hole with a grommet, then check to make sure the wires in the harness connector are secure. Make sure the switches are stable. Battery and grounding condition make a lot of difference in how things work or don't work. These cars have no rhyme or reason to what may act up with poor grounding or a weak battery. Ampere output and conductance through the ground cable is the best test. Another thing to look at is the switch on the steering wheel. The switch operates through the spiral cable. Is anything else acting stupid on the steering wheel? Does steering wheel position make any difference? Lastly, checking all the modules on the car for fault codes may give you a direction if the BIU or ABS module is storing a fault without illuminating a warning light. It happens with communication faults. The is nothing with the ECM that would do this continuously at the same rpm. Something else is happening - vibrations, switch, grounding, harness movement, at this rpm that is doing it.
  2. Good day all, I'm cardoc on SubaruOutback.org If anyone is in Austin, Texas, or the surrounding area, I work in S Austin. You can PM me for contact information and I will get back to you. All generations are covered through current models. I don't guess. Unlike a lot of shops and the dealerships I will never tell you, "I want to try....." for any issues.
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