rjnakata

@doublechaz There may be some extra power at lower rpm.  Higher rpm seems ok, but I'll keep track of it some more.

@silverton Ok, a new California (CARB) cat is like $850.  I'll start a new thread on best options...

@doublechaz@silvertonthank you.

Agreed 16 mpg is for cars much more exotic than mine!  I'll see about the phone supported OBDII - pretty cool.

I did dry the K&N but may have oiled too much(?)  Anyhow I've replaced the paper filter and we shall see.

@silverton: psychic - I did just start getting the P0402 code and roughly the same time as the growl. I just thought it could have been a number of other things I've been fooling with. I cleared the code and I used Rislone to see if I could clean the cat...the code returned after a few months.

I'm supposing the plugged CAT could cause a drastic decrease in mpg...correct?

@doublechaz thank you.

At all loads the car seems to have power, maybe even more than before, BUT is has a new "growling" sound when loaded.  No missfires, or hesitations.

I forgot to mention pretty much all city driving, but still 16mpg?

Finally what is meant by "live engine data"?  Is that a dyno test?

@Doublechaz  Thanks!

Hmm, just replaced the front O2, can't hear any putt-putt exhaust leaks, no extra weight except for me...

Would the car run smoothly if mis-timed?

My '01 Legacy GT wagon is running great, but I'm getting +/- 16 mpg.  Any ideas? Help!

Regular gas

Newly cleaned K&N air filter

New Fuel filter

Newly gapped valves

New plugs/wires

Newish tires

Regular oil changes / coolant flush

New timing

Sometimes I get a CEL for CAT deficiency...

Follow up:

I set the intake/exhaust at 0.18mm/0.23mm and not 0.20/0.25 (+/- 0.02mm) as recommended by the service manual.

Why?...umm why not as an experiment with the low end of the recommended clearances and to keep valve noise down... I can always widen it I suppose.

Bad Idea jeans?

I do notice when I floor-it there is a new low register "growl" sound from the motor that I've never heard before and it seems to have a miniscule amount of extra acceleration. (Not that it ever had any breathtaking pickup ever).

New "growl" = good? OR "growl" = bad?

.

.008"(.20mm) for the intakes, .010"(.25mm) for the exhausts. You need to use both of the .010's in your feeler set for exhaust adjustment since they share one rocker arm.

 

Though to be honest I have found this spec to be a little on the loose side, at least by ear.

Ok, I'll (re)set them to 0.20mm/0.25mm.

I might error on the tighter side if anything. I did hear some lifter noise when set on the looser side of the range.

.008"(.20mm) for the intakes, .010"(.25mm) for the exhausts. You need to use both of the .010's in your feeler set for exhaust adjustment since they share one rocker arm.

 

Though to be honest I have found this spec to be a little on the loose side, at least by ear.

Given the intake loosens and the exhaust tightens over time how about going +0.05mm toward the middle of each range:

0.15mm intake / 0.25mm exhaust

Sound good?

'01 GT Wagon 5MT 225Kmi

I'll ask here among the wise:

When adjusting valves does one use the minimum spec for intake AND exhaust...or other?

RJNakata, thanks. That was easy. I'm pretty confident that it will fit. If it fits ej25 and ej22 in gen III it should fit ej25 and ej22 in gen II. Only thing that changed about timing through that period is the number of sensor teeth on the timing sprocket.

Ok, just be sure to space that thing better than my mechanic did!

BTW, where would I get such a guide? My manual has never had one, so it must have been left out on a job before I got it.

I see it at Amazon: "Genuine Subaru 13145AA021 Guide- Timing" or at SubaruPartsdeal.com for $4.77 + a lot of shipping.

Not sure if this is applicable for 2nd gen...

A lil digging and it appears this guide needs to be 1mm above the belt and is only for MT. The wear appears consistent with width of the guide.

Mechanic may have placed it too close...

Indeed, glad to have caught it during random unrelated work!

'01 Legacy GT Wagon

I was doing a valve job and took the belt cover off to check the timing and found this. Aisin Belt Kit changed 6/21 (less than one year and 5Kmi ago) at 213K mi

What do I have here? TIA

My 2001 gets 'fuelly' in the car in near and sub freezing temps. Mine is the forward right fuel line, it ends up moist.

Related??: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1893471[/url

FOLLOW UP:

After reading 40+ pages of the WRX related link above, it appears Subaru recalled 2002-03 WRX's in "cold weather climates" in 2009. The recall recognized the gassy cabin smell issue. They issued a fix kit including replacement metal fuel lines that go under the intake manifold and new hoses. Dealers were required to remove the Intake manifold to replace the lines. Here is the fix kit Apparently it is not fuel rail related.

The lines leaked with cold temp start up. At this late date it appears a recall/extended warrantee fix from Subaru is not possible. My VIN showed no recalls despite definitely having the problem. If you want to pursue, the WRX recall is WVK-21. A Legacy recall might be WXZ-83.

Using matching diameter Gates fuel tubing from O'Reilly, I changed all the more accessible fuel lines on the driver's side (and filter) with no smell improvement. All lines appeared fine after 20+ years. BTW the 3" line has 1/4" between the metal lines and is a bear to replace. Don't do it if you don't have to.

Two 3" lines are on the passenger side and both are difficult to access. Two clamps are oriented with screw head toward the manifold. Manifold removal is required to replace or tighten clamps properly. I used small vice-grips to turn the screws from the thread side (smashing the threads of course).

Halleluiah! This cured the 20+ year long gassy cabin smell problem. I'm hoping this is permanent. Of course YMMV. I'll definitely be changing the lines if the manifold ever comes off.

Replaced Driver's side lines:

Driver's side 3 incher:

Passenger side hose 1:

Passenger side hose 1:

Passenger side hose 2:

Factory-installed rear main seals on those engines hardly leak, ever. 1 out of 200 maybe? If not smaller odds than that. I put the new one in literally perfectly flush, like a textbook installation…. and it started showing wetness less than 10k miles later. My friend that did engine work at Subaru for 4 years replaced the one on his own car and it started to leak lol. The factory-installed one on my car had over 150k miles on it and wasn’t leaking before I took it out. Rear main seals are only worth replacing on engines that are known to have rear main leaks because seal replacement is sometimes a roll of the dice. I would check your car from the highest point to its lowest point to verify its not leaking from another point, unless your seal has been replaced in the past.

Great insight. My '01 GT trans was rebuilt at 175K (now 225K) but I don't "think" they did the seal at the same time. Is that a thing? This calls for further investigation.

Again thanks for sharing your build. Irvine Subaru did my head gaskets. I may join you with a WRX one day - maybe soon.

The fuel line hose clamps may need to be tightened or replaced.

Thanks.

Would that explain in-cabin (with closed windows) smell?

Is there an air connection between the cabin and the engine compartment?

https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

 

Put your VIN in and it will tell you all the recalls that apply to your car and whether they were already done in your case.

Thanks, shows no unrepaired recalls.

I once saw Subaru was only recalling "cold climate" cars. Mine is originally WA and now CA, both of which can have (extremely in the mountains) cold start days.

I searched the forum and one said cracked breather tube, but that just doesn't sound right.

I'm at about 310K on mine and I wouldn't dream of totaling the car over an engine out repair. I've done engine out, clutch, burn 4 hours driving around for parts and food and stuff, and engine back in before dark on a Saturday.

Awesome. I'll stick with it. thanks again.

Update:

 

Also replaced the rear main seal, but I’m pissed because I found out that it was a pointless thing to do on these engines... after I pulled the old one out.

What a great thread, thanks for sharing your build.

What makes it pointless? I'm facing a main seal replacement...I think.

I get a gassy smell in the cabin at cold start up (60 degrees or lower). Goes away after warmup.

I "think" there was a recall for cold climate cars, but couldn't find it. Insights/remedies appreciated.

If the car is in otherwise good condition monitor and fix when time and funds allow for the car to be down. For a shop, dropping g the transmission to do a clutch and replacing the necessary seals is a few hour job. Not the end of the car.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Thanks guys, for some reason I pictured an engine out operation but a clutch change with new main seal is more reasonable.

I'll ask different question in a new thread. Much appreciated.

doublechaz: Thank you. "All three of those involve splitting the engine from the trans."

Whoa thanks, Is this a vehicle totaling issue? At 225K should I cut my losses? Is this a 300K+ mi. build car?