rjnakata

If I went the KYB + springs route, should I expect the other peripheral parts need replacing too: mount, dust cover, seat etc?

Great suggestions!  Noob Q: Do I need a F & R alignment after installing?

Is there a reputable company that makes a strut assembly for my 01 Legacy GT daily?

I tried to find KYB, but they don't seem to have a strut assembly - only the shock replacement.  At 250K I'm concerned my springs have gotten tired also. 

TIA

2001 GT Wagon 5MT  250K mi

Should one expect a SNOUT REPAIR KIT (such as TSK-1)  is needed when changing the clutch/bearings for the above?

If so, which would you recommend?

TIA

11 hours ago, silverton said:

scraping metal and a helicopter sound...  almost definitely the throwout against the pressure plate

Ok, good to know...not good to know..

Would that at all be related to a single transmission related clunk heard when starting from standstill?  Sounds like another bushing is worn..

Thanks

31 minutes ago, doublechaz said:

Perhaps a broken spring clip on the throwout.  Sometimes it sits happy, others the missing spring clip lets it touch the fingers?

 Don't get crushed or rip any of your parts off working around moving parts.

Honestly that sounds like it...ie like a propeller blade scraping lightly against metal..

Driving in the air,..and crawling under does sound a bit hairy....

Thanks all.

6 hours ago, KZJonny said:

sorry dude, this is just ideas about what to have a look at. Diagnosis of rando noises via the internet isn’t exactly a fine science.

Appreciate the time.  The driveshaft was replaced about 75K ago.  The noise happens when the clutch is NOT depressed so not thinking it's the pilot... 

So I'm at a loss.  Sometimes sounds like a cricket chirping that gets more excited as I accelerate....but most of the time nothing.

Just now, KZJonny said:

Start of terminal failure of a bearing in the bellhousing? 

Yikes...which bearing is that?  (the transmission was rebuilt about 100K ago...)

On 2/14/2024 at 5:57 AM, silverton said:

Yeah the sound I heard from mine seemed to be coming from the front/middle too, does it happen in neutral or only while in gear? you do have a manual so it could be your throwout or pilot bearings.

Happens while accelerating IN GEAR, but disappears with clutch depressed...

Sounds kind of like a propeller scraping on something...more rpms = faster spinning of the propeller..

It does come from the front somewhere...

On 2/10/2024 at 5:54 AM, silverton said:

I know this is gonna sound crazy but..... muffler bearings.

I did change the fluid in the turn signals and it cured a bad clicking sound whenever I used them...haha

The chirping sound seems to be tied to the transmission - ie faster acceleration / faster chirping.  But up to about 30 mph.  It does seem to come from the back.  I'll keep an ear out for the muffler.

It comes and goes now...  As always thanks for your insight.

That new sound...01 GT Wagon 5MT 250K 

Now a new drive train related (not engine) fast high frequency "chipping" when accelerating from standstill, occurring in sync with the acceleration...up to about 30 mph.

Ideas? Help! TIA

...so 2 down (transmission,  pitch stop) and 2 to go (L/R motor mounts).  

OEM mounts are $120 each.  Aftermarket $50 each. Some claim aftermarket motor mounts last 5-6K mi. vs the 200K+ I got on my originals... hmmm

Update: I finally changed the dog bone mount on top/middle.  15 min. job for this neophyte.

The transmission mount eliminated about 50% of the vibration and the pitch stop-"dog bone" helped another 25%.  Removal revealed cracks in the bushing and separation at the large rubber insert.

This improvement may allow me more time to prepare (psych myself up) for the (2) motor mounts. 

22 hours ago, doublechaz said:

I believe that tool is for holding the motor after a lift rather than doing the lift.  (But the first time I had my motor out we didn't have an engine hoist so two of us just reached in and pulled it out by hand.  2 out of 10 would not recommend, but my point is a Subaru engine is a lot lighter than many engines so figure out if you think that tool can do the lift and be careful.)

If you lift with that, keep your body out of the bite until you are sure.

Agree, if you pull it up from above it will be much more stable, if you push it up from below it may tip over.

I believe a small 1-2" of lift can be accomplished by screwing the "Y" nuts....

Good point, it would be prudent to either use a strategically placed block(s) and/or a jack under the pan.  Wouldn't want the hands to get crushed in that narrow space for sure.  Thanks.

Well my indy shop wants $1700 to change the motor mounts. 

This guy on youtube says it's a most heinous job and to be careful of the engine tilting to one side with everything detached while lifting from under the pan.

After I figure out how to remove the exhaust (there's no spring bolts and a junction hidden behind heat shields), I was thinking of lifting the motor from above with this Harbor Freight special.  That way the motor won't tilt when lifted.

What think you? TIA

2001 GT Wagon 5MT, 250K

75% of the vibration was resolved with a new transmission mount.  Motor mounts are next but it looks challenging. 

Raise the motor and fish out the hidden back bolts.  A vid shows removing the headers for the working room, but detaching the exhaust at the junction seems access limited too.  Removing the oil pan has access issues for the back screws... 

Please share you experience on how you got it done!

Thanks for your reply @silverton.  I replaced the U shaped mount under the transmission.  I don't see reference to another up top.  Are you referring to the dog-bone (pitch stop?) under the intake on top?

RE engine mounts: is the goal getting the motor raised enough to access the second bolt that is currently not visible from below?  It kind of looks like an oily forest around there...

Changed the transmission mount.  Took about an hour (at my pace...slow). Waaay better now. Local indy shop wanted $1300...not sure why.  Maybe a misquote?

Now I'm wondering about the engine mounts.  I couldn't find a good vid of it and it looks as if one screw is "buried"?  

I read the motor mounts last, but at 250K (and oil soaking) I'm wondering.   Any advice appreciated!!

Does a shot transmission mount sound right?

'01 GT Wagon 5MT 250K:  I picked up a vibration.  Symptoms:

1) stick vibrates at slow speed when accelerating from stand-still (maybe at engine speed frequency?), low growling sound.

2) same vibration occurs when coasting neutral at highway speed (motor running fine at 1000rpm).  

3) rare chirp-chirp at slow speed acceleration

4) Tires new and carefully balanced.

It's not horrible, just new and concerning, and when you daily a car for 23 years you know when somethings off. I changed the rear drive shaft 60-80K ago (bearings shot). Is it Axles? Drive shaft? Differential? Transmission (rebuilt 80-100K ago)? Ideas?

TIA!!  

19 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Aftermarket diff guard? The company I got mine from recommends using it as a jack point… else, diff is okay, just be careful, it’s not hard to damage the cover.

You *can* jack up at the front on the oil pan, but I’ve only ever heard of people doing it to nudge the engine a little for plugs etc… it’s not a lift point for the car. So…. No, not really a front/centre lift point…

Ok, wow thanks.  Is the plate just behind the oil pan ok for lifting?

I have the factory differential guard...like for the Outback...

Thanks.

Is there a center jacking point at the front and rear? (for a floor jack, not a jack stand)

I have that rock guard around the rear differential, so I'm assuming that point would be a no-no.

'01 LGT wagon:  Where are the floor jack points?  Can jack stands be used safely as-is at the scissor jack points at the weld seam?

TIA!

Ok, how about gas additive CAT cleaners?  Worth a try first? which?

TIA!

'01 Legacy GT Wagon 5MT 225Kmi: The 0420 code I'm getting along with 16 mpg suggest a clogged catalytic converter. See my other post.

I'm in California and along with CO, NY, ME a CARB rated cat is required.  I see new non-CARB options for about $250, but CARB's go for $850 min new.  

Do you have suggestions for options?