LordFlash

The longblock has been in 3 separate cars. I did not swap the entire chassis harness or ECU when the engine was transferred from one vehicle to the next.

Yeah that thought crossed my mind a few months back. I don’t think that could be it because the problem has followed the shortblock. I’m basically resigned to putting a new shortblock in the car. I don’t understand how it’s the problem but ever car this block has been in has had the problem until I change the shortblock. I’ve heard of a Subaru with this problem before and it turned out that the cam had become magnetic. But I’ve changed the cam and heads.

One more tid bit. The car runs and drives beautifully if the driver cam sensor is unplugged. It’s been in a car I loaned to a friend for the last 18 months.

Sorry for a long post but I am in need of some help. so I bought a non running 05 LGT sedan. Previous owner did head gaskets and mixed up the cam caps and the cams seized in the head. So I bought a set of ej204 heads from mag engines. As far as I could tell the heads were identical to the usdm heads with the exception of the combustion chamber being a bit smaller. so I rebuilt the engine. Put the new heads on and it wouldn’t start and gave a p0340 camshaft code. New ( known hood used) cam sensor doesn’t change. So I discover the JDM heads had only 2 triggers on the cam reluctor instead of the USDM 3. So I change the camshafts. Starts right up and runs great. Problem solved? No. As soon as the engine reaches operating temp or if you try to drive it engine stalls and code comes back. Change with another known good used cam sensor. No change. So I follow the FSM and go through all the diagnostic steps everything checks good. So I assume damn I have a bad ecu. So I took the engine out and put it in a different 05 legacy GT (same car just a wagon this time. Andddddd... Boom same problem. So I rebuilt another engine and put it in the sedan, ran great, no check engine light, sold it to my nephew who drove it until he hit a dear. the code followed the engine So it must be something attached to the engine right? So I proceed to change the wiring harness, AVCS solenoids, AVCS sprockets, cam sensors. All have no effect. So I figure maybe is a ground issue. I install additional grounds nothing fixes the issue. At this point I figure “damn JDM heads are different some how”. So I rebuild a new long block put it in this second legacy and it runs great no code. So I now bought a third legacy GT, this one has a rod knock. So I rebuild the heads from that car, put the shortblock in that car and the exact same code and symptom up. I thought well it could be something on the same circuit pulling down voltage and or causing interference, so I replaced the throttle body and TGVs. The JDM heads I thought were the problem are now in my daily driver and have zero problems. to summarize, this code has followed the engine into 3 different cars. the only parts that have yet to be changed (at least one or more times), are the shortblock, fuel injectors, wastegate solenoid, knock sensor.. im a decent professional mechanic, and I think I do well at diagnostics but I have no flipping idea where to go from here besides OHMing the injectors to see if they are causing some weird EMI through the power circuit.

Thanks, i was having the same issue. 3k miles ago, i did all 4 Wheel bearings, struts, end links, etc. and took it for an alignment and was told the same. they said the rear toe is .7 out of spec. ill order those bolts.

Here is my two cents: Subaru is, in the grand scheme of things a smaller auto manufacturer. Subaru started building the EJ engines in the late 80s, when subaru was almost unheard of. the company was cash strapped, and looking to change their brand image. as the 90s came, subaru needed to spend capital on changing that image. The company simply didnt have the R and D budget to design a new series of 4 cylinder engines. they simply took the EJ18, EJ20s and EJ22s and started trying to squeeze more ponies from them. They increased the bore and stroke, added DOHC, Turbos etc. but the inherent design of the engine (oiling system, bearings etc) remained the same until they ended the EJ in the early 2010s. A lot of the reliability issues arise from the fact that the EJ series engines were never intended to do what Subaru was asking them to do. Comparatively, Toyota and VW (the worlds largest auto manufacturers) have huge R&D budgets. they also have the advantage of not using the boxer platform, which has unique challenges to manufacture and engine reliability. I will say that as a professional mechanic, I distain Audi because of the hideous complexity of the car's electrical systems. mechanically they are sound, but when they hit 100k reliablity falls off a cliff. Dont believe me? go look at your local classifieds for Audis over 100k. here in Utah, there are TONs of them for dirt cheap with a host of complicated problems. Cadillacs? personally i don't really like them. i grew up in the 90's and 2000s and IMHO, practically all american made cars at that time just seemed cheap with poor quality control. So In my opinion, yea subaru has their issues, but their easy to work on, and they are nice cars to live with on a daily basis.

I heard subaru is planning to launch a hybrid next year. word on the block the hybrid system is leased from Toyota. Im curious to see it, because I'm thinking of buying an EV or hybrid next year. I also really dig the new Fisker Ocean coming out this year. With different wheels i think it would be a real stunner. what be your thoughts?

Hey guys, I am a long time legacy owner, I've been a long time member of SL-i.net but there is such a low amount of activity I joined rs25 and re-joined legacygt.com. I currently own a 2nd gen w/ ver 4 STi swap and a 4th gen GT limited that is stock. ANYWAY, I had a question about the OEM navigation. i looked around and haven't been able to find answers to my question. I was at the junk yard, and found an outback xt with a nav screen. i thought that would be a cool upgrade to my 05LGT so I snagged the box under the drivers seat, the screen the bezle and the wires that connect the two. I didn't have time or tools to pull the whole dash harness so I just clipped the connectors that go in the back of the nav. Has anyone done an upgrade write-up on adding OEM nav to a car that didn't originally have it? and am I missing any other pieces? Thanks for any help boys, I look forward to posting and talking with you all