mikec1

Hey all,

Took my passenger front seat out this morning and to my joy and surprise it looks like the previous owner stripped the bolts and holes out and just jammed it back in there to never come out. Luckily just the 3 same bolts however, the thicker one was fine. Wondering if anyone has the thread/pitch of the bolt/hole if I need to Helicoil or retap it, not ideal I know. NASIOC had it listed for imprezas and I don't know whether it's universal or not.

Thanks!

They are two of the same, yes.

 

Wonderful! Thank you very much

The 2 idlers on the very left of this pic in case my question wasn't clear

 

https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c09dffc7e3c3a8f75affd34/1616510450534-GRNKZPA89FEZ8Q91WPFN/IMG_20210323_085803.jpg?format=1000w

Looking for help on purchasing parts for my 2008 LGT, haven't been able to find an answer anywhere. Putting an OEM kit together myself as it seems that'll be cheaper than even the cheapest Gates kit could be up here in Canada. I know it needs 4 idlers, 1 cogged NSK, 1 small NTN, and my question comes from the other 2 Koyo idlers, are they the same? Every picture and cross reference I've done has led me to believe that they are, but just making sure before I buy. They are the 2 smooth black idlers on the left. Every kit I see has 2 of the same, and part numbers on Subaru lead to 2 different idlers. If anyone who has had their engine apart could chime in that would be great!

Hey all,

Just a few questions about my 2008 LGT. I understand the engine is under vacuum and that an RPM drop is to be expected when removing the oil cap, but how many RPMs is acceptable? Also, how much blowby is too much blowby? The oil cap doesn't shoot off when removed but does rock a tiny bit from the pressure. Won't blow a piece of paper away either, just a little bit of flapping from it. PCV valve is on my list to be replaced so that may solve all of these, if they're even issues to begin with.

 

Also looking for advice on general maintenance outside of the owners manual, and any helpful tips/tricks from the mechanics and longtime owners of these.

 

I am aware all of my queries may have been answered before so if you could direct me there that would be great!

I couldn't make it out in the video. Regardless, someone's going to have to get in that right-front wheel well anyway. It's best to take an hour yourself, remove the wheel and visually inspect to see if you can see the problem, rather than pay someone else an hour's labor rate to do the same thing.

 

Maybe worn out pads, down to the metal? A bad wheel bearing?

 

When was the last time (date and mileage) you replaced/resurfaced the rotors? How about the pads? Have any of the calipers ever been replaced, if so when? Wheel bearing replacements?

 

It could be something a simple as a rock making contact with the rotor - this happens to me on a monthly basis. Or it could be a little more involved such as replacing a tired wheel bearing.

 

I've replaced 3x wheel bearing in the last year and half now. Both rears and a front. All gave the same characteristic you've described. Once the metal heats up, the whining isn't as violent. At cruising speeds it simmers. To check the bearing, jack up the car, and grab the tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. Push with one hand while pulling with the other in a continuous back in forth motion. If there's a lot of play, you sir have a bad wheel bearing.

 

If any of the above directions are confusing, refer to timestamp 1:43 here:

 

 

 

Recorded a new video while coasting in neutral, noise is a lot more apparent.

Just wondering if anyone has any insight to the noise I'm experiencing. Sounds like gravel/metal grinding on metal while driving. Has progressively gotten worse as it has gotten colder. Coming from right front side, only while under load and braking, cruising noise seems to disappear. Vid below (whining noise is a bad ground, can faintly hear the noise I describe)

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

JDM HVAC controls and double din stereo Mount.....unless you can live without streaming music in your car.

 

 

 

A post it note note on your dash reminding you to check oil level every gas fill up

 

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I actually rigged up a bluetooth device +2 amps and retained the factory headunit, didn't have the money to spend on a JDM kit at the time and can't say I regret. Maybe in the future.

If it’s lowered add a Whiteline Roll Center kit. It fixes the suspension angles and greatly improved the ride of the car.

 

Cylinder 4 cooling mod from Getadomtune.com is essential to spread out the heat and cool cylinder 4 so it lasts longer.

 

 

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Noted, will invest in a roll kit and I have been eying the cylinder 4 cooler for a while so I will buy one next. thanks!

There's smaller stuff like a catch can and maybe replacing OEM FPR with the 05 STI one but other than that it sound like you got most of the major mods done already. If you're looking for a larger turbo 16g, jmp vf40, or vf52 are good options for a daily.

 

Definitely considering changing the turbo in the future, thank you for your advice.

Have you looked at the sticky's on the top of the forums ?

 

Sounds like the car is done, just make sure you keep an eye on oil usage and always keep it topped off with oil.

 

May be send a oil sample off to Blackstone Labs,

 

Yeah, looked through the sticky's before I posted this, but I was just wondering if there was anything beyond it since they have been posted I should know about. Planning to get a pro tune and work on aesthetics next if nothing else.

Just wondering if anyone has some insight towards some quintessential mods for a 2008 LGT 5MT. Whether it be bulletproofing or performance I'm all for it. I know this might've been answered before so if it has feel free to direct me to it.

Mods on car so far:

-Borla Catback

-Unknown DP, has HF cats but covered in heat wrap

-Tomei Expreme Headers/UP

-Cobb SF intake w/box

-Accessport Stage 2+

-Stage 2+ clutch/pressure plate

-Cobb short throw shifter w/bushings

-235s on 18s in the summer

-Full Whiteline suspension (sway bars, endlinks, bushings, etc.)

-Lowered on KYB struts/shocks with Eibach springs

Currently putting money aside for future timing belt/waterpump replacement in the future (sitting at 133,800kms), and valve covers have a very minimal amount of sweat, so not terribly concerning yet. All previous maintenance done and fluids religiously changed.

Any input would be great, thanks!

Have a 2008 LGT sedan with completely rotted seams at the bottom of my passenger front door, read a bit that the front doors on the wagons/OBXTs were the same but just making sure before I pull the plug and buy one. Sedan part outs are hard to find so wagon would work much better.

How is the car running? Any lights? Guessing this is your 2008 so no cat in the UP. Had a look at the turbo, check for shaft play recently? Front axle?

 

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No lights, runs well and builds 17.5psi well, spool time is good. Yes, 2008 is correct, running all aftermarket exhaust anyways. No visible shaft play, axles are tight. Will pull the turbo soon to check for sure.

If it sounds like rocks inside of a can then your turbo may be starting to go. Once you get play in the shaft the compressor wheel strikes the housing and you chip on of the blades which throws the whole thing out of balance. Depending on how bad/where the imbalance is on the compressor wheel it can be rpm dependent. Would definitely have the turbo checked asap

 

Checked for shaft play to which I found none, but will pull the entire turbo tomorrow or later this week. Had an OBXT blow its turbo and didn't really sound the same, but it was a 5EAT so chances are high the turbo is going

Have a strange noise coming from my front right near the turbo, only notice it in first gear, off the gas and cruising to a stop sign. Sounds like gravel in the turbo, no obvious heat shield rattle or anything. Any thoughts?