RumblyXT

This is the setup I have.. Hold on, let me try it with the Nokia X100 phone..

Just get a small (USB female to USB-C adapter) and connect it to the OTG cable that goes to the Taxtrix Open Port. I don't have a charging option yet. What I'm doing is charging the tablet and using it while driving to monitor, not leaving it in the car. I’m holding the tablet with doble sided velcro tape. Notice the small cable adapter the Vendor sent me, the one directly connected to the tablet. That’s what made it work! “Perseverance, secret of all triumphs.” - Victor Hugo

Guys I have great news! The App works!! It was the freaking OTG adapter after all..

I am preparing things to replace the A/C compressor for the newer 20x model that came with the motor. I have been doing research and learning how to recharge the system myself (1st time doing this). A friend lent me his vacuum pump and gauges. After reading the FSM, I realized I should have plugged/capped the removed A/C compressor ports since the oil it uses is very hygroscopic. The replacement compressor has been stored in the garage (dry/hot place) all this time. I'm hoping no moisture got inside. Some questions: 1. Do I really need to recover the refrigerant if I'm just quickly replacing the compressor? Can I just get away by pulling a vacuum on the system and recharging it afterwards? Or is a recovery of the whole system actually necessary? (All this time I thought the Compressor oil would stay in the compressor itself, but it actually mixes with the refrigerant in older vehicles, which I'm guessing is the case on my '05 OBXT). This is why I'm asking the first question. How do I know how much oil to introduce in the compressor if it's already mixed with the refrigerant? 2. The FSM mentions to use only Denso Oil 8. Google says PAG 46 is the same thing, is that ok to use and what amount of oil is needed? Going by the FSM looks like I have to measure the amount of remaining oil in removed component.

Just a follow up update on this BtSsm stuff.. I have been keeping in touch with the vendor to find a possible solution on what's going on, he has been super helpful responding questions. I mentioned other forum members were having the same issue with their other Android devices as well. Vendor ran his own 'OTG?' app to show if there are any issues. I downloaded the same app, and I'm not getting the data he did highlighted in yellow. Vendor suggested I get another OTG to USB-C adapter.. He was kind enough to send me a free adapter to try out. We’ll see.. This is what I get when I ran his UTG? app.. This time I was trying a Nokia X100 phone

Bumping this helpful thread 3 years later. My 212K miles compressor (I'm thinking it's the original one) seems to have departed. The socket trick to remove it was very helpful! I was going to try to fix the clutch/gap, but it may be more than that given its age.

I’m emailing back/forward with BtSsm app support. Seems I’m very close to getting the app to work on my tablet, and yes it’s free now! I’m thinking the new free app may be giving problems for some since it’s a new version. I went into my tablet’s Developer Options settings (now available) and it seems I have to enable USB data transfer for the app to recognize my OP2.0 BtSsm support told me to check the tablet OTG compatibility via the app “OTG?” and it looks like it works ok too.. The only thing is, the tablet keeps displaying “USB device not available” I will check again tomorrow morning if it works when connected to the car. Update: I tried changing a few settings in the tablet developer mode and it the app settings itself, but nothing has worked so far.. it's weird because it looks like the Tablet is ready to go all things checked out, not sure if it's the new version of the app that is presenting the USB issues.

Try contacting the app support and see what they say, they do answer the emails. Also, it seems like they have a new free version of the app now with adds. I thought it was $15? But when I went to pay for it, it was free to download. Correct me if I'm wrong, I want to make sure I'm not downloading the wrong one, pretty sure the one I downloaded is the only one available in the Play Store.

I have been trying to run the BtSsm app on my Android Fire 7 tablet which I modified into a true Android tablet ti see if it would work. I was able to install the app on it, and selected the proper user interface which is AP 2.0, but now the app states: “USB device not available”..

As I suspected, the A/C compressor clutch is way out of spec.. even the .061mm gauge enters easily.. I will try MrSubaru method of removing the shim see if that works.

Spot on it Sir. I was just researching the topic and the A/C system is directly related to the cooling system, hence the overheating.. It could be the condenser that is clogged or the A/C compressor that is overloaded due to low freon or failing compressor.. the squealing noise I heard the other day might have actually been the A/C compressor after all, not the fans. The A/C is not blowing as cold/intense as it used to, yet another sign of possible failure. Thankfully I’ve got the newer A/C compressor that came with the 20x motor. I’m just glad it doesn’t seem to be an engine operation related issue. Phew..

Yes, I tried the A/C and it works but definitely not as cold as it used to.. will check the freon pressure tomorrow. But later I decided not to turn on the A/C because the fans kick on high and this appears to overheat the engine.

I sat in the car for about 20 minutes idling with the A/C off.. the engine never overheated. It only seems to overheat when the A/C is turned on while idling or stop traffic and the fans kick on high speed never to come down to low speed again, weird. This is why I'm thinking the fans acting this way might be putting extra work on the engine. I was wondering if it could be a bad rad fan switch. But at least I'm glad the car no longer overheats unless the A/C is tuned on. But dang, that A/C is really needed down here.. I saw a video where the fans stay on high due to low freon, this was an F150 truck though.. but in fact the A/C on my car is not as cold as it used to be.

I did some trouble shooting this morning... it really looks like the slight overheat might be coming about from that troubled A/C fan and some air that was remaining in the system. First, I noticed the overflow tank was low, below the low line (weird because I had just filled it up 3 days ago/possible air trapped in system?) I also checked both rad caps, they are in great condition. I removed part of the coolant, rad hoses and small rad lines. They're all good, blew air through them, not clogged. Then I tried swapping the A/C fan for the new Chinese one I ordered. I couldn't plug it, female plug it brought is totally different. I could have swapped out the connector onto the good fan, but really didn't have time today. Then I remembered the overflow tank and the way I bled the cooling system before, it was wrong. I was connecting the big funnel wrong directly onto the small plastic tank without the provided metal rad cap, did it right this time. Upper rad hose got hot, then the lower rad hose, thermostat seemed to have fully opened fine at about 203F, then both fans kicked in on low (very good till now). Temp went down to 196F, then the fans stopped since the temp went down to 196F. All this time the A/C was off. Then I turned the A/C on.. and immediately the A/C fan kicked on High, which it shouldn't have since the temp was just at 196F.. (Also the noise I had heard before was NOT the pulleys, it was the fan!, it did it as soon as I turned On the A/C), so I turned off the A/C. I concluded bleeding the air from the system, correctly this time with the provided metal rad cap adapter and noticed the coolant didn't go low on the overflow tank (meaning the system seems to be properly bled now). All this time the temp gauge remained normal with the A/C off. My conclusion for now is there seems to be an issue when the A/C is tuned on and is either not working as it should and/or putting extra stress on the engine, thereby elevating the temperature a little. Reason why driving on the Hwy it doesn't overheat due to increased air flow. Possible solution: Seems to have been a combination of air trapped in the cooling system and still a bad A/C fan. I will re-order a new A/C fan and drive the car without A/C for now see how it behaves. I also still have to check the A/C relays.. Incorrect way of bleeding the system.. This is why.. this hole will bring in air into the system. The correct way to do it with the provided metal rad cap.

This car is driving me nuts.. Father in law drove the car this afternoon with the windows down, no A/C for about 5 miles round trip, he described engine is behaving mechanically sound, no issues, weird noises whatsoever, like a top. I went outside now to the driveway, sat on the car, turned it On to mess around with the BtSsm app and left it idling.. Soon as I turn on the A/C, the fans go wahhhhh on High and would not cycle to low speed. 5 minutes later I hear the belts squealing.. as if something was stuck.. I’m like wtf is going on.. Jesus Christ! Temperature was still normal. Maybe I didn’t let it overheat and shut it off. Could the radiator be partially clogged?? The driver side fender got so hot I couldn’t leave my hand on it.. sighs.. Something is definitely wrong and it seems to happens more while idling.. Could the fact the ECU is not tuned yet be the overheating while idling issue? Your ideas are welcomed.

On another topic, it looks like the Amazon Fire 7" tablet actually does work the with THE BtSsm app. It's a great little inexpensive tablet and fits perfect in front of the center dash cubby. You have to download Fire Toolbox V32.2 program in a laptop/desktop to turn the AF7 it into a true Android Tablet. This way, you can install Google Play and download the BtSsm app, which the tablet wouldn't allow me to do before.

It was actually reassurance for me lol.. ever since covid my memory is not the same.

Yes, if I remember, it may have brought two upper corners T/B guides, besides the main T/B guide on top of the crank sprocket. I will check. Hmm.. That makes a lot sense now. Heat by conduction from the ATF filter/ lines can be more of a possibility than heating that area by air. I have a laser thermometer, will point it at the ATF filter next time the engine is warmed up. I just thought because I have that HVAC coolant bypass/cylinder 4 mod could create the heating issue around there..

This is from the ej20x FSM (note the ex cam sprockets). I'm going to double check the left over parts I have.. it seems to only bring the T/B manual trans guide #2.

Hmm.. I will check on those T/B guides again. If I remember correctly it came with two on them on the ej20x, but didn't install them thinking it had been on a manual car before. I should be able to install them by just removing the plastic covers right? Regarding the ATF filter/lines, I have in fact thought about it as the cause of heat, but had ruled it out thinking the filter being so small could not create so much heat around all that area, but I could be wrong.. the car has 212K miles on it, I think it's definitely time to replace it. Now that you say it, those Trans lines there have a lot of dust/oil around them..

Thanks. Hmm.. I thought T/B guides were only for manual Trans models only? I don't remember installing them on this motor.. I took my time to do things correctly and yet I end up with a similar issue I had in the past (a slight overheat) and also a vacuum leak (which should be much easier to find/resolve). I really like this car, wrenching on it, troubleshooting it and fixing things but damn it, it's getting to the point I'm running out of options.. at times I feel like throwing it off a cliff. I drove it it to/from work last night, it was fine. I noticed the fans stayed on way High speed most of the time after the engine is warmed up, they almost never go back down to low speed, I could even hear them while driving. And yes, the driver side fender still gets very hot (way hotter than the passenger side).. this still has me puzzled. Right now, that slight overheating is my main concern. It doesn't happen all the time, mostly while seating in traffic or idling.. Possible overheating causes: Rad caps (both are new) water pump (coolant is circulating fine, upper rad hose gets hot and so does the bottom one) big rad hoses (both get hot and are uncompressed) thermostat (brand new, fans turn on at warm up temp, meaning is opening) could it be getting stuck open? Coolant reservoir tank (has coolant to upper level).. I will check for possible plugged overflow pipe and possible clogged overflow small hoses. no leaks whatsoever in the cooling system Radiator (brand new stock size, no debris in front of rad/condenser either) system was bled of air bubbles (will repeat this step just in case) Fans do start on operating temp, but stay on high mostly, sometimes switching to low.. possible Relay malfunction? I will swap out the passenger side fan with the new one I will receive today.. just in case my father in law did something wrong when fixing the fan motor. It's makes a Subaru, a Subaru...

Last time I did the vacuum leak/smoke test it was fine, I have to repeat it. I hadn't seen that thread before no, thanks for the link, will read it now. Yes, both fans were working ok, on High and then Low.. The LV pic was taken after I got off the Hwy and parked the car at home while idling. During the Hwy drive, the engine behaved Ok, no subtle heating (maybe because of the increased airflow while driving). Driver side/left fender of the car keeps getting hotter than passenger side for some odd reason. Maybe that HVAC coolant bypass/cylinder 4 cooling mod is restricting the flow there?? Remember I have no heater on the car.. not that I needed in Miami anyways. Today before going for a drive, I bled the coolant air bubbles, cross pipe has a brand new coolant temp sensor, it has a new thermostat, rad caps are both new, fans are both operational. I honestly don't know what it can be, not sure if these higher compression 2.0L motors maybe require a bigger size radiator (oem stock size is installed now).. or the fact the ECU hasn't been tuned could be affecting the car to where is slightly overheating. I get what you're saying.. Your car overheated a bit with a lot other factors putting stress on the motor and that would make sense.. But on my car, I'm not even stepping on it hard (never into boost yet).. timing seems to be fine too, no weird engine knocking sounds at all (unless that 7 degrees retarder time I did on the ex cam gears) could be creating this slight overheating? I remember reading somewhere a bad Timing belt job/accessory belts being too tight could create strain on the motor and overheat it? Sighs.. Will keep doing research till I figure it out lol.. thank you again XT2005bonbon.

I also noticed whenever I open RR, I don't have Turbo Boost monitoring among the RR values.. nor Engine Oil pressure.. 26 total Knock Sum.. is that bad?

The 2nd pic? Isn't that the LV (Learning Table Value)? Maybe I'm not doing this right. I was driving and had to stop to bring up the LV table.. Comments/suggestions/critiques all accepted.

Well I'll be darned.. my father in law took apart the A/C, Condenser fan and ended up fixing lol "He mentioned something about the carbons in the motor not hooking up" or something along the lines.. Necessity is truly the mother of inventions/creativity, especially when you lack materials/parts and you have to come up with your own solutions. It's a small example of how we used to face certain challenges and had to come up with ways to make things work. I know it's something trivial, but I really admire that.. Anyways, I installed the A/C fan it was running great, connected the PC, and ran some RR logs while driving. I didn't want to take the car about 60 mph (62 actually), because I could feel boost kicking in. Drove for a while, even took the car on the hwy. I'm not really sure why the IAM doesn't get to the value of 1 yet. Sorry for the bad pictures, wasn't easy driving and taking shots of the PC screen. Notice the coolant temp going up a bit, it went up to 217, not really sure why, everything else seems to be working fine. At least that's what it looks like to me.. I may be wrong.