killjoy323232

Ah, gotcha. See, I’m hoping that whatever requires the locksmith account only applies to cutting/registering new keys and not necessarily to re-registering components to the BIU (i.e. the cluster), but that would make sense that it might. Everything I’ve been able to find so far has been a bit vague…even the FSM, and while I’m tech-savvy, I’ve never done EEPROM cloning/writing.

If only the dealership in my city wasn’t a complete dumpster fire (or there was a Subaru shop around me that had an SSM3), I wouldn’t have to worry as much.

Long story short, I may need to reprogram/re-register my immobilizer soon due to failing LEDs in my gauge cluster. I had a thread on subaruoutback.org about it a while back, and I'd gone as far as buying a spare cluster, but I ended up ruining the stepper motors trying to disassemble it (why ruin the one that came with the car further, right?)

I'm in a bit of a dead-zone, where the nearest competent dealership with an SSM3 is most likely more than 4 hours away, and the OBXT will be my only running car, ruling leaving the car at a dealer out, so I'm debating buying a "totally-not-an-SSM3" (fill in the blanks) to try to register a new cluster.

What I'm worried about is, the device SHOULD be able to do that, but it mentioned key programming needs a code/account (presumably similar to what locksmiths have to register with to get key codes). Does this apply to the immo registration with an actual SSM3, or are they two totally separate processes?

Also, I don’t recall for sure if you can see the engine speed reported to the TCM, but you should be able to use the Tactrix and FreeSSM to view TCM (and ECM) parameters/codes, to verify the TCM is getting/reporting the correct info. Just a hunch.

Might be worth it to check into where the TCM gets that RPM signal from. I’d guess it’d be the same sensor the tach/ECM uses…but I don’t have an FSM on-hand to look. My hunch is it may be a loose connection/wiring somewhere. The P0700 is just a “Hey, turn the CEL on for the transmission” code. Got that when I was fighting a failed 2-3 lockup clutch on my FXT.

Don’t know how crazy you plan to go on the suspension, but if the rear has never been touched, prepare to have some…fun…getting the old control arms/bushings out.

Mine’s still not done, but I’m very happy with my suspension so far. I only got to drive it about a week and a half before the HG went on mine lol.

Nice work! Hopefully the CEL is something fairly trivial.

Gah, beat me to it by like 15 seconds ! That’s probably what I’ll do when I EJ20 swap mine here in the coming weeks, too, as that lower heat shield is a PITA…and for some reason, my OBXT didn’t have any at all when I bought it.

Yep, that one. Guess I could have been more clear. “Rear” and “post-cat” O2 are interchangeable terms to me.

Man, I miss having access to a garage…would love to be able to start tearing into my XT.

Forgive me if I’m wrong because I’m doing this from memory, but those two connectors almost look like the EGT sensor (2-pin) and an O2 sensor (4-pin - It looks like it could be the one that’s post-cat, due to the length of the cable…or it could be for something on the 5EAT. I’d tell you for sure if I were at my PC and could reference the FSM ). If those have already been accounted for, then ignore me.

And yes, that BPV bypass hose is a PITA. On the Forester XT/Impreza, it’s recommended to remove the throttle body to get it in or out of it’s the OEM one. I think I had to cheat and use a screw clamp to get it on the turbo inlet. Haven’t had to R&R the OBXT’s yet.

I might have missed it, but have you decided on what route to go with when tuning for the new engine? I'm going cross-eyed reading swap threads, trying to find options for my own EJ20 swap (and I'm just planning on having the stock USDM ECU remapped), but the nearest tuner to me is at least a 6 hour drive.

I wish I'd read your thread before I emailed Cryotune yesterday in regards to EJ20 swap tuning...would have saved me the disappointment!

Sold!

TY!

 

Pending sale...

Selling my unmarried APv3. I misplaced the case and some of the accessories, but everything it needs to function is there (AccessPort, OBDII cable, micro USB cable, magnetic cradle, and adhesive mount). I also have the extra silver faceplate.

 

Sold. I'll ship it, but I would prefer a local sale. I'll accept PayPal (plus 3%), or cash if local. Located in Lubbock, TX.

Ive been a little busy, but this is all new to me, especially this engine tuning stuff, so its hard to figure out if the issue is the tune or mechanical.

 

I went back to the first tune I had where it was leaning out until I got a cel. It doesn't have any hesitation at all and drives normally. The new tune I got to try and correct that lean issue seems to be cutting out as soon as the AFR hits 11. something, like it won't go lower than 11.x and then the car just bucks and hesitates. It works fine however when I unplug the maf. One tune runs lean and the other can't hit an afr lower than 11.

 

I haven't done a new log with new intake manifold gaskets for either tune, so I will see whats going on there. I also installed a new oem maf, and ordered a new Grimmspeed air filter, the one I have seems dried up and deteriorated.

 

Haven't tried messing with the MAP.

 

Where was your vacuum leak?

 

Er, it seems I'm a bit late, but my leaks were at the vacuum ports between the intake runners (where the FPR is), and at the front of the manifold (MAP port). There was nothing connected to either port. I've since fixed those, but what you were describing seemed very similar to mine.

When I was trying to troubleshoot my MAP by leaving it unplugged, the ECU substitutes default values for load. It very well might do the same with the MAF (I'd have to double check the service manual for the exact failure mode/failsafe). I was running into something very similar when I was chasing what turned out to be a huge vacuum leak - it'd run like crap with the MAP plugged in, but run great unplugged.

 

What happens if you leave the MAF plugged in, but unplug the MAP? Are you getting good boost/vac readings from the ECU itself? I don't know if any of that helps at all...

I'm fighting with this, too, but there's a couple of things I've learned (and mine seems to be related to a vac/boost leak).

 

It seems to be pretty common for the ECU to detect knock when shifting (especially true with a 5MT, might be similar with a 5EAT - my FBKC will retard up to 4 degrees, then return to 0 after a couple of seconds), and on sharp throttle inputs. This is normal.

 

I'm assuming you've got an AP - keep an eye on your DAM and knock learning values, as well as FBKC (which it sounds like you are). If your DAM is dropping, you know you've got a severe knock event (or events) happening and need to look at it ASAP. If it's not, you might be fine.

 

There's also some stickied threads on this. Might be in the tuning section. It's a veritable treasure trove of info.

Oh, boy, this just gave me flashbacks to when I replaced the 4EAT on my Forester XT with a JDM unit...Generally, as long as the final drive ratios match, and you're swapping in a P2V2 transmission, you shouldn't have too many issues. Or, nothing that can't be solved with a solenoid swap, as was my case.

 

Unfortunately, I couldn't get my hands on documentation or any service documents for JDM cars, so I couldn't confirm differences on mine, BUT according to this site, there are several RHD 2.0i models that may work for you. Just put your transmission model in the search box at the top.

 

HTH

Looks like I'm going to have to get a smoke test done sooner rather than later. DAM fell to .125 on my way home this evening. It's fine under boost, but lately, at part throttle - usually after I shift to 2nd or 3rd - it stumbles and pulls anywhere from 2 to 12 degrees of timing. Not sure if the stumble is due to the pulled timing, or the cause, but it's bad...

Might be a bad gas event. My car sometimes pulls some timing around 2300ish rpm under light loads then nothing for a few runs.

 

Could be...there's a different gas station that I can try. More and more pumps have been appearing in my city with 93, but I've had a bad tank at a different station owned by the same company. Fool me once...

Also verify Oxygen sensor functionality.

 

I'll take a look at it. It probably hasn't been touched in the recent past. No clue if it's original or not, but appears to be working properly though from what I've seen on the AP.

Bit of an update - pulled some more logs, and pored over them. It looks like a lot of my knock events are happening at part throttle (30% or so), with little to no boost (even under vacuum in some cases) right under 3000 RPM. It's pretty inconsistent, but it's pulling anywhere from 2-12 degrees. Since my fuel trims don't appear to go rich under boost, I'm going to take a second look at the pre-turbo piping this weekend, since I didn't touch that doing the vacuum line repairs.

 

I logged some pulls at part throttle and WOT, and at WOT under high boost, there's zero knock. Better still, my DAM has crept back up to 1 as of this morning.

How long has the DAM been that low? Usually after a reset the ECU takes some time to climb back to 1.00 Smoke test to make sure there are no vac leaks maybe best start. If You still have the original intake tube from turbo to air box they are notorious for tearing where You can't see it.

 

I don't think it's been that long. I vaguely remember checking it soon after the aforementioned vacuum hose (re)routing and it reading 1, then checking it again on a whim and noticed the .625. I might have that backwards, though, but I'm pretty sure it dropped. I have a very bad feeling the car was run for a LONG time with a massive vacuum leak, no FPR reference, and no BOV (This is well before I bought it - see: shady dealership). Now that it's running...well, not as poorly, I want to do everything I can to prolong the life of the motor.

 

I don't have easy access to a smoke machine, but I do know at some point, the turbo was replaced under warranty, so I can't rule the inlet out. Not sure it's been touched since then...if it is that, hopefully it's easier to do than on, say, an SG Forester XT...

 

I'll try to rig up a smoke test. Failing that, I might try the soapy water/pressurized intake method to see if I can trace a potential leak. Might have to wait until this weekend...

*Apologies in advance if this is in the wrong subforum...

 

I'm gradually trying to make my OBXT less of a "polished turd", and into a competent daily driver. A couple of weeks ago, I found out the shady dealership I bought the car from had connected all of the vacuum lines completely wrong. I got that remedied, hooked the battery and my AP3 back up, and after a while, noticed my DAM is pretty low (AFAIK, less than 1 is bad). More worryingly, it looks like the ECU is pulling a little timing under boost/load.

 

I'm not great at reading datalogs, but I'm trying to learn what should be concerning vs. what's more-or-less "safe". I know the engine in this car is also unreasonably noisy (the verdict is still out on whether it's VERY excessive valve clearance or an exhaust leak), so the knock sensor could be registering the "tick" under load. I haven't heard any pre-ignition.

 

I've attached a small datalog...any insights on what you guys think would be very welcome! TIA

102521 morning.csv

I could be wrong, but I think certain LED bulbs have built-in circuitry to switch between CK and non-CK sockets. Morimoto's X-VF bulbs come to mind, and Profile's Peak 3157 (what I'm running) do, too. I'm actually thinking of switching to the Morimoto bulbs...they are pricy, but can be ordered as switchbacks with a fade-on function, like you see on many new European cars.

 

Just my 0.02.

 

From Morimoto's site, to shed a bit of light (heh) on why the fuses might be blowing...

Alright, the car is back to...well, I wouldn't call it "factory", but as normal as it can be. I removed the alternator and the intercooler for better access, and found that the blue tee was completely gone. I just relocated the tee to the front of the engine, off of the MAP line, and left the recirc valve directly plumbed in to the rear of the manifold, so everything is hooked up, and nothing is left open or leaking! (Hopefully...that stupid rubber ring on the intercooler-to-TB connection threw me for a loop. Might have to revisit that).

 

All I can say is, man, this thing hauls now! It's still running a tiny bit on the lean side, but it's not stumbling nearly as bad as it was. I saw a peak of 15 PSI (with the appropriate AFRs) on the highway from the turbo (on Cobb's OTS STG 1), so the MAP sensor is working like it should. Might still have a tiny vacuum, or exhaust, leak. Fuel trims at idle are leaning positive (14% LTFT), but there's a tick under load, too.