Militarybuilt

Getting rid of my GS TMIC and going to a front mount and wondering if anyone is parting ways with theirs. I'm in Upper MI and I'll cover shipping. 

1 hour ago, SubOperator said:

Any subwoofer makes a difference, and this one is no exception. I always felt that my son's 05 OB lacked the "beef" when it came to playing good music - compared to my LGT. Once I put this subwoofer in it became much better, "juicier" if you will.

Sound feeling is very subjective, so keep that in mind.

 

Yea I figured it would make a difference, just didn't how much of a difference. I really need an aftermarket headunit but I'm too cheap to pay the $300 for the dual zone mount. 

3 hours ago, SubOperator said:

It should. I have one just like that in my 05 LGT and this unit I put in myself years ago in older son's 05 OB with OEM radio.

The OEM harness is included with it so there should be no need for anything else.

Harness plugs in the back of the OEM radio (large white connector), the car's radio connector plugs in the other large connector on harness (with gray foam), and smaller white connector plugs in the subwoofer itself.

Ok cool. I'll give the car a look tomorrow and see what it has. 

Does it make a good difference in sound? I changed the speakers in my car and it's still weak as hell. 

Will this work in all the 05 LGTs? I have a limited but it didn't come with the sub, I'm wondering if the connectors are under the carpet for this to work.

Now we're cookin with gas. Awesome, I really appreciate it. 

Thanks!

5 hours ago, m sprank said:

The answers to your questions are here:

After the change to the forum the pix no longer show, but you can click on the links and download. 

But unfortunately the link to the pictures don't work anymore. 

5 hours ago, m sprank said:

The answers to your questions are here:

After the change to the forum the pix no longer show, but you can click on the links and download. 

You're the best. Thanks!

I looked around and couldn't really find a clear answer..

I have a set of TGVs and fuel rails from a top feed setup along with 750cc top feed injectors that I would like to swap onto my 05 LGT as I'm doing a VF52. I see a few fuel line conversion kits but they're for aftermarket rails. What would I really need to make it work with the LGT? DO I just use fuel injection rubber hose to connect everything? 

Or what would be my best option to hook the factory top feed lines into the factory LGT lines from the FPR? 

I appreciate the help.

1 hour ago, Enlight said:

I'm not knowledgeable about AFR's, but have you check whether your MAF is clean? I was dumping extra fuel and found that my MAF was filthy.

Yea I definitely thought about that, so I cleaned it haha. But unfortunately it didn't help.

Just now, awfulwaffle said:

For sure, good luck. Let us know how it goes. I just realized, the defouler may be necessary these days. I keep forgetting about the Cobb Green Speed stuff - that rear O2 comp table is probably no longer available if you're tuning via Cobb. 

Yea I don't know what program he is using. But I do have a local source that uses an open source program via a tuner in the UK, that may be the ticket too.

15 minutes ago, awfulwaffle said:

Even if the rear O2 is entirely absent, the car should be targeting around a 13.8 AFR assuming the baseline target is 14.7ish in the tables. That'll drop your mileage to 18-20 in my experience. That said, any tuner worth their salt should be able to shut off the rear O2 compensation in your car because those tables have been known for a long time. You shouldn't even need the de-fouler, or even the rear O2 sensor to be plugged in, and still hit the proper 14.7 target and get decent gas mileage. 

 

If you have no air leaks, I'd still be taking a look at those fuel trims. That will help us see if there's something wrong in the closed loop fueling calculations. 

Makes sense. Hopefully he can figure it out, if not I'll be looking for another tuner or sack up and get an actual dyno tune. Downside is I;ll have to drive three hours south to Green Bay as that's the closest Subaru tuner/dyno. 

15 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

What was your MPG before parking it for a number of months?

17-18mpg-ish. Still not great.

10 minutes ago, awfulwaffle said:

That's actually a bit lean. No way Shinji is targeting that, unless he was trying to make you a pretty extreme economy map. Next thing I'd look at is AF Learning 1, and AF Correction 1. With a steady 15.5 AFR at cruise, I'd expect these to be high positive. AF Learning 1 maxes out at 15%, and Correction at 25%. 

 

If these are pegged or close to it, your car has a large air leak and is dumping fuel to compensate. A 15.5 AFR means it's run out of room to adjust and still can't hit target, which should be in the 14.2-14.7 range. That, or one of the sensors (front O2 or MAF) responsible for closed loop fueling has gone bad. 

 

Hopefully that's all it is, because it's a simple fix.

I did a boost leak test the other day and it was solid no leaks. 

I'll have to get the laptop hooked up again and see what's it's reading for Learning and Correction, I should also get an actual wideband in the car like I should have a long time ago. I'm wondering if it has something to do with having the de-fouler in with the O2 to shut the engine light off? 

I have the datalog to send to Shinji as well whenever he responds, until then I just wont drive the car. My truck at 12.5mpg is cheaper to drive at this point...

1 minute ago, awfulwaffle said:

Yeah that's not right. How does your cruise AFR look? Driving steady, not accelerating.

I don't have a wideband but through the AP I think it's saying 15.5:1, which is a bit rich. 

1 hour ago, awfulwaffle said:

What's your driving style like, to start? 14.5-15.5 MPG may be reasonable if you're ripping around everywhere, not so much if you're just cruising down the freeway at 70-80 mph and that's what you're averaging. 

That's me trying to baby it back and forth to work and around town. Shifting at 2500, not going over 3700 and cruising at 60-70. 

SO my 05 LGT is getting about 14.5-15.5 MPG. I have the typical bolt on mods, GS TMIC, cobb catted DP, Cobb intake, perrin tube, catless up-pipe, q300 catback. It's been tuned by Shinji with plenty of datalogs but that was last fall. The car sat for two months this spring and when I finally got back to driving it my mileage is bad, real bad. I emailed Shinji but I haven't heard back. Plugs were done last fall before tuning as well. 

Anywhere I should start? The car idles and runs fine, it's just got an appetite for fuel and at $5.85/gal it hurts. 

My car is black so maybe that helps even this time of year. At work I'll park the car where it will get sun all day. open a couple of windows an inch. Haven't you noticed how warm the car interior is when the car is parked in the sun on a cold day ?

 

Even my silver 09 will be warm inside when parked in the sun this time of year.

Yea I have noticed how warm it gets in there, even with 5% tint all around. I have to keep all the windows closed tight at work or it gets full of red dust (I work at an iron ore mine).

King Ranch what....? 150, 250......three-fitty? We all like pics lol.

 

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2015 F150. I wish I had a good way of posting pics on here. The truck rides like a dream compared to the LGT, even with a 4" lift and 35s haha.

So I changed the cabin air filter, it was dirty but not crazy. We will see how it goes, I haven't driven the car lately as we just got a ton of snow and my truck is far more comfortable (King Ranch for the win).

My windshield heater doesn't work currently either, I'm thinking it's a relay issue as the light on the button doesn't even light up, and the fuse is good, but I have to pull the panel down to get at the relay board.

Next time you park the car on a sunny day, open the windows about an inch to let the car air out. I do that with my cars all the time.

 

See if that helps.

I can't wait for those sunny days..... We're supposed to get 15-17" of snow over the next 48 hours...... I live in Upper Michigan, when it's sunny this time of year it means it's cold, like below zero cold.....

Defrost works pretty quickly in colder temps for me (15-30F). Anything below that takes longer.

 

Is there excess moisture in the car? Possibly from melting snow on floor mats or a leak somewhere? I've had problems keeping windows defrosted in those situations. Filled a couple tube socks with silica cat litter and put them under the front seats to help absorb some of the extra moisture in the cabin that builds up during winter. They're like big "do not eat" desiccant packs. Cabin air filter clean? All HVAC actuators working correctly?

Everything seems to be working fine, but I can't say I've ever checked the cabin air filter, I don't even know where the dang thing is actually.

My floor mats (weathertech) do have a bit of snow/ice/water on the drivers side, which I should empty/clean out

My 2009 LGT struggles with that at times. I find running it on auto works the best. It chooses to run the a/c or not and I believe that is what takes the moisture out of the air and clears the windows.

 

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You don't have the system in "recirculate" do you ? They will cause the windows to fog up.

 

Only use that setting for a few minutes to help warm up the inside quicker, then go back to mixing in outside fresh air.

No it's taking in fresh air. It does kick the A/C on as well to dehumidify the thing, but as soon as I change it to any other setting the efficiency goes down the tubes and the windows fog quickly.

My 2009 LGT struggles with that at times. I find running it on auto works the best. It chooses to run the a/c or not and I believe that is what takes the moisture out of the air and clears the windows.

 

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Good call, I'll try auto and see what happens.

Does anyone else in the north have to keep the defrost on the highest setting constantly to keep the windows from fogging up? I'm in Northern MI and with it being single digits I have to keep it on high all the time. If I switch it to defrost and feet the windows fog up quickly, it's annoying.

Anyone else out there?

There is sure to be a relay somewhere, that would be the next thing to check.

That's my thoughts as well. I'll have to scour the wiring diagrams when I get time.