Gpruitt54

for turn signals, you can use resistors or have a flasher module that can handle LEDs - I have a tapturn module, so they work just fine.

 

Can you include a link and photo of the Tapturn module you are using to eliminate using resistors?

Which ones do you have? I'm thinking of doing the brakes, but don't want to mess with external resistors if I don't have to...

 

I did these for turn signals

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RNCBD72/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these for the reverse lights

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KFS93PS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these for all the little bulbs (license plate, puddle, trunk, etc.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRVN7R6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I've had the 194 bulbs in for a year or so with no issues - the turn signals and reverse lights are much more recent.

 

So, the turn signals you listed here did not require resistors?

No. I bought this one because it's adjustable, but there are non-adjustable versions...

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163931129316

 

Gee! What was I thinking? The relay I located on Amazon had the standard 3 blade design as found on most American made cars. Of course, the one for the Subaru is of a completely different design.

 

I do like that this one has an adjustment dial.

just buy a replacement flasher relay that goes under the dash thats made for LEDs...that way you can replace any and all bulbs in your car w led without any issue. Also Lasfit makes high quality leds that are internally regulated so no resistor required. I have every bulb on my legacy inside and out replaced w leds for well over 4 years with no issues

 

I guessing this is the relay in question.

https://www.amazon.com/GP-Xtreme-Electronic-Flasher-Signal-Subaru/dp/B00D8KY11I/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=2010+Subaru+flasher+relay&qid=1627933037&sr=8-4

just buy a replacement flasher relay that goes under the dash thats made for LEDs...that way you can replace any and all bulbs in your car w led without any issue. Also Lasfit makes high quality leds that are internally regulated so no resistor required. I have every bulb on my legacy inside and out replaced w leds for well over 4 years with no issues

 

I did this on a 99 C5 Corvette. Yes, there is a flasher relay that once installed, eliminated the need for resistors. I was not aware there was a similar device for the 5th Gen Legacy.

You probably need resistors for them if you decide to use them.

 

I have dealt with resistors with my other cars. I don't like installing them. LEDs being as popular as they are, and common on newer cars, don't they have LED replacements bulbs with built-in resistors?

Has any of you used these as tail and stop lights?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P9T1J74/ref=crt_ewc_title_oth_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A28CIAO57KNOQR

I want to replace the signal, turn, marker, interior lights with LED lights. Does anyone have a chart identifying all the various lights for the 2010 Legacy?

I think the jbweld approach has a non-zero chance of going horribly wrong... weird that the threads were binding - I am guessing debris of some sort got in there if when it was first removed it came out without incident...

 

 

 

Gradually running the bolt in there (with known good threads) like a tap with something to lubricate the threads as was done here is probably the safest approach - the steel bolt is always going to win against the aluminum threads, so taking your time and running it in straight by hand is what I would have done, as well. Only additional step I would have probably done is to try and clean out the hole to remove any potential debris - getting the tube in there from a can of brake/parts cleaner and flushing it out thoroughly

 

Good idea to clean out the hole with brake cleaner. I should have thought of that myself. The closest I came to cleaning out the hole was compressed air to blow any debris out of the hole. I pulled the bolt out completely many times to inspect the threads and to apply more cutting oil. I also used a Sharpie and drew a line down the non-threaded part of the bolt. This was to determine if the bolt was starting to twist. This was a scary project, with the possibility of snapping the bolt top if mind. Thank God it is done without mishap.

Ooof. You got lucky with that one. Would have sucked to pull the transmission to fix a bolt hole.

 

Lucky? Heck yeah! For whatever reason, the bold did not show signs of massively chewing up the threads. I blew out the hole with compressed air, expecting all kinds of metal shavings to come out. But nope. I still cannot believe how easy the bolt hole cross threaded.

Well, the starter is installed and working. To get this job done, I continued to run the oiled bolt in until the threads got stiff. I then turned the bolt a quarter turn, then ran it out several turns. Repeating this process until eventually reached a point there I would get the bolt tight against the starter mounting flange. So, essentially, I used the bolt as a tap. It worked thank God. Hopefully, I won't have to replace the starter again.

I am trying to install a starter on a 2010 Subaru Legacy (one of the easiest projects you can do on this car short of changing a tire). As I was re-installing the long bold (see photos), I turned the bolt in by hand 1/8 of a turn the bolt grabbed a thread and just got harder to turn. I backed the bolt out and found shavings on the bolt. The starting threads on the bolt was goofed up. Thinking that I had cross threaded the bold, I put a tap on the bold to clean up the threads. Getting the bolt started was still tough, but easier than before. WTF!

 

It seems that the bolt hole threads are crossed. I have taps and dies, but the taps are not long enough to reach the threads in the block. I am putting oil on the threads of the bolt and giving the oil a change to clean out the threads, as if I was using a tap. The photo of the bolt is how it looked after my last session of gently easing the oiled bolt into the bolt hole threads.

 

I know I should be using a tap, but standards taps are not nearly long enough for the depth of the threads at this location. Amy suggestions? Is what I am going making things worse? Just trying to get this thing done, but the car is fighting me every step of the way.

 

 

I have a ding that is starting to show some rust. I want to sand, prime, and rattle can paint the small spot. Where can I find the paint code for my 2010 Legacy?

At this stage, I am trying to get my bearings and understanding components of the car. I would not start any project until I fully understood all elements.

well, do you have a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder? all of the 4 cylinders have CVTs and the 6 cyl has a standard torque converter transmission

 

I believe it is a 4 cylinder. It is nearly impossible to see the spark plug wires. So, I am guessing. Though, the acceleration performance leans towards 4 cylinders. Is there a sticker someplace on the car with information about the engine?

The fluid depends on which transmission you have. Do you have 2.5i CVT? or 3.6R 5EAT?

 

I bought the car used. First time Subaru owner. So, I am not sure. How do I determine which engine I have?

My 2010 Legacy needs one of these one hoses for Transmission Oil Cooling. These are rubber hoses with spring clips on either end. Only one is leaking, but I intend to replace both. From the passenger side of the engine bay, I can look and see them both. Both hoses together are about $50.00 bucks. The dealer wants to charge more $500.00 to replace them. Is that “F”ing insane or what!

 

Anyway. There are two issues that concerns me. With the current leaking, and once I remove the hoses, I will lose some amount of fluid from the lines. I will need to add more transmission fluid. My concerns are the kind of trans fluid needed and where is the filler cap?

 

I understand these cars use some special kind of fluid (Figures). What kind of fluid is it? Also, where is the transmission fluid filler?

 

 

According to this guy the 2014+ mirrors are different than the older ones.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/151489329704

 

Maybe he could make you a harness that will work.

 

My 2011 has the home link mirror and only has three wires. That said I’ve never used the home link so I don’t know if it works.

 

That is not at all the point. I stated that the mirror I bought, with Home Link, has a different power cable connector where it connects in the overhead panel.

Awesome post. So basically to make it work, you need to swap out the non homelink harness with the homelink harness. I guess whoever is looking in eBay, they should buy a mirror that is complete with the harness and avoid any issues.

 

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

 

You know how these things go. In that there may be differences. In my case, my car was supplied with a mirror with dimming only and no Home Link. I bought a Home Link mirror with its harness. I could not use the Home Link harness because it would not mate to the connector behind for overhead panel. Though the connector on the back-side of the mirror is the same for Home Link and non-Home Link mirrors Using the harness already in the car which supplied the dimmer only mirror worked to power the Home Link mirror. Just remember to clear whatever programming my be in the Home Link mirror.

According to this guy the 2014+ mirrors are different than the older ones.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/151489329704

 

Maybe he could make you a harness that will work.

 

My 2011 has the home link mirror and only has three wires. That said I’ve never used the home link so I don’t know if it works.

 

I modified some of what I stated initially. It turns out that the three wire connector did in fact work to power all aspects (Garage door opener, compass, and dimmer) of the Home Link mirror. I discovered this after clearing the memory of the mirror. After this, I was able to get the door opener to function perfectly. This is while using the dimmer only stock mirror wiring harness.

I am updating this thread as of March 18th, 2021

 

Well, there is good news for this little project. The good news is that the compass and dimmer functions perfectly. The bad news is that I had not cleared out whatever programming was in the mirror prior to my buying it used on Ebay. Because of this, the Home Link did not work. After cleaning the memory in the mirror and pairing it with my opener, Home Link is up and running.

 

It seems that the power cable behind the mirror is universal regardless of Home Link and non-Home Link mirrors. Contrary to what some say, the power cable behind the overhead panel is not universal. The connector for non-Home Link mirrors are different from mirrors with Home Link. The non-home link mirrors have a 3 wire connector, whereas the Home Link mirror connector has 2 additional wires with a different style connector.

 

I bought a Home Link mirror its cable harness. The Home Link cable harness is not required for this to work. I used the cable harness from the stock non-Home Link mirror. As stated earlier, the Home Link mirror cable harness connector in the over-head panel has a different layout. So, go ahead and use the harness already with the non-Home Link mirror. It seems to work fine. Be sure to clear out the replacement mirror's programming. To clear out the programming, press and hold for 20 seconds both the right-most and left-most garage opener buttons, until the red led starts flashing. This means that the unit's programming is cleared and the unit is ready to be paired with your opener.

 

This turned out to be a great upgrade, in that I no longer need to use the Old-School opener.

 

 

 

In order for the Home Link to function. I needed to clear out the programming that was in the mirror when I bought it on Ebay. To clear out the programming, press and hold for 20 seconds both the right-most and left-most garage opener buttons, until the red led starts flashing. This means that the unit's programming is cleared and the unit is ready to be paired with your opener.

 

Here are the ball studs I bought and used. They were the correct size and thread pitch.

Now I can use any standard strut of the correct length.

 

Ball Studs 10mm M8 X 1.25 Thread For Automotive Lift Supports

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCV053V/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

yeah, you can't get the stud out for whatever stupid reason...thanks subaru.

 

901390005 is the part number, they're like $4/per, just buy some new ones.

 

Yeah. I makes little since to do what they did with the ball studs. I order a new set of 4 ball studs. I'll see how it goes and report back.

 

On the same note. I replaced the struts for the trunk. In that location, they used standard replaceable struts.

Raise the engine to change 4 sparkplugs??? This is a Subaru we are talking here, not a Lambo or Porsche. Is this required for all 4 plugs? What wires... What does it take to replace the plug wires? I am almost afraid to ask.

They should pop out of the socket. You have to pry up on the spring clip. Maybe this video will help you.

 

 

There is something completely odd about the strut on my 2010 Legacy. Looking at the condition of this strut, I am guessing this is the stock component. Here is what it looks like.