scottmcphee

I just checked my throttle % and pedal % using BtSsm tool. When the pedal gets over about 55%, then each decimal point 55.3 to 55.5 change starts resulting in multiple percent change of throttle .. 70 to 75.. it's very hard to try and get a specific throttle opening beyond about 55% because it is so hard to hold the pedal still enough (move it smoothly enough). My throttle body buzzes and clicks in this wide margin area... it also buzzes a bit as soon as you turn the key on. I assume this is normal. But I am battling a p2138 code which is a drive-by-wire error of voltages not in agreement in sensors. Maybe my TB mechanism / sensor combo is hooped... dunno.

I think this is normal throttle opening program to go in big steps for second half of pedal press. If you think about it, as the throttle plate pivots up more than half way, it takes much larger swings to create meaningful difference in volume of air flowing. There is probably no practical or measurable performance output difference between a 85% and 100% open throttle.

Throttle sits off zero when no pedal is applied (spring holds it open preventing a complete choke). I think mine is around 10%, when pedal is 0%. By the time pedal is pressed 60% the throttle has made it to WOT (100%) and all the "extra press" of the pedal beyond that shows throttle holding at WOT.

That sensor would not fit 2006 Legacy 2.5i

Followup please? I'm wrestling a p2138 pedal sensor code, that does not resurface if the MAF is unplugged. I'm about to try plugging MAF back in and unplug front O2, to see if that also keeps p2138 away (dead pedal and limp home idle).

Ok, I was getting repeatable and persistent p2138 codes... So I unplugged the MAF sensor as a thing to try, something I read upthread. Magic! The car is instantly drivable again. After clearing p2138 by tool, this code did not surface again after lengthy convoluted drive cycles just minutes after the car was throwing p2138 constantly. Of course I'm getting MAF related codes now p0102 MAF too low, and p0113 IAT sensor too high. But I'm not getting a throttle sensor code and no throttle disconnect / high idle that was symptomatic of the p2138. And by the way, the secondary sensor in the pedal is still dummied out and sending the exact same value as the primary (my masked rigging is still in effect). I am going to put the pedal sensor back to normal again because that is a red herring? ------ UPDATE for THIS POST ------ The MAF unplug experiment was not the answer. Car thre p2138 again with MAF unplugged.

The car is drivable with a dummied secondary sensor like this, I can verify that! Bad news, after a drive cycle and engine was warm... It threw the P2138 code again. This proves the error code is not because of a voltage discrepancy between primary and secondary sensor. It is because of something else.....

Getting this p2138 code, recurring after step by step diagnosis and process of elimination of many things.... I read RSdude's post about dummying out the secondary pedal sensor, by connecting its wire to the primary pedal sensor output. Making the output identical on both sensors.... But I did it a different way by some temporary internal modification of the pedal sensor. Picture says 1000 words.. But here's a few words. I masked the 2ndary sensor connection pads with Kapton tape, all three pads of it. Then I made a "jumper" of aluminum foil spanning the two wipers of the two potentiometers of the primary and secondary sensors. And I taped that down. The net effect is no current flows through the secondary pot, and the wiper of the secondary gives the exact same reading as the wiper of the primary. And the primary sensor pot connection pads and wiper continue to work in their original fashion. In other words, there is no physical way for different readings to come out of the pedal. They are identical when presented to the original, unmodified, plug on the harness that connects to the pedal. A plug that has been cleaned and coated with a bit of dielectric grease.

I hauled a new dishwasher home in the back of my wagon. Another $70 saved on not paying delivery costs. I figure I have saved in the thousands on using my own wagon for hauling stuff home from the shops and the trailer for landscaping materials.... Just sayin

I've seen pictures of web electric module, inside. That's all I needed to see. Moving on.... Get ahold of 3 lengths of 20AWG, or so, insulated stranded wire, pretty common automotive stuff. You'll be bringing these lengths of wire out to where you want to work, not with your head up the dash. Find the BIU side of the cut you made on the BIU-to-flasher line. Strip this end and attach a length of wire to it, twist join and wrap with tape is good enough, and bring that out. Call this line "BIU". Protect the cut ends of every wire from touching anything metal, or each other, accidentally during this experiment. Find the flasher side of the cut you made on the BIU-to-flasher line, strip and attach a length and bring that line out as well. Call this line "CONFIRM". Get +12V right from the battery with a clip.. call this wire "HOT" bring it to the cabin where you are working. Do the following with your stock flasher plugged in, hazards switch OFF. Meter the voltage on HOT wire and see that it is +12 or so. Use a chassis ground for the negative test lead. You'll blow a fuse or melt a wire if you touch this lead to ground, so don't. Meter the voltage on BIU line. (Meter's negative lead on the same chassis ground as test above.) This could be "any value" because we don't know the state of your BIU. Record the reading, is it positive? Is there a different reading with the car running, or off? Report findings. Now make a connection. Twist BIU to CONFIRM to rejoin that factory desired connection. You said your flashers come on at this point. Do they still? Meter this connection point for a voltage reading as your flashers are blinking. Record, report. I'll assume your hazards are blinking at this point because of the connection just made (wishing they wouldn't..) Now press the hazard swtich. Re-check the meter reading on the BIU/CONFIRM junction. Did it change (drop further to zero)? It should be zero with button pressed. Release the hazard switch so it is not closed. Now, the experiment. Twist one end of resistor to HOT. Tape that whole side of the resistor so you just have the other resistor lead emerging from a protective enclosure. Meter the exposed end of the resistor, it should be +12 or so. Momentarily touch the exposed end to chassis ground, nothing should spark, heat up, or melt. You should be able to grasp the resistor while doing this. Alternatively, test the DC current using your meter that is flowing through the resistor to ground. Ensure it is only a few mA. Now hold the exposed end of the resistor to the BIU/CONFIRM junction. You are "pulling up" that line. With any luck the hazard flashing should stop when you do this. If it doesn't stop flashing, get out your second resistor and wire it up in parallel with the first (so as to drop the resistance in half, or double your current)... do all the same safety checks on that resistor pair as above.. Then hold the exposed twisted end of the resistor twin pack to the BIU/CONFIRM junction. You are "pulling up stronger" at this point. With luck the hazards should stop. If they do... press the hazard switch ON now, the hazards should come on when you do. Then turn hazards OFF again. Hazards stop. Now, the big test, lock the car remotely. And see if you get a confirmation flash. If you do, make this temporary rig more permanent using your own thoughts, but certainly leaving loosely wrapped wires and things poked into socket holes isn't going to carry you far. Make sense?

This is pointing to BIU damage on the output stage of the circuit that controls dis/arm flashes on the hazard input to flasher. It's good you're seeing the desired pulse from the BIU toward ground for lock/unlock flash. But like you say, it's not releasing from ground "enough" to let the stock flasher get out of flash mode. If you wanted to follow up on this wonder, I'd suggest starting with a 2400 ohm (2.4k, or 2k4) 1/4watt common resistor bridging pins 4 and 8 at the flasher. See if this affects your hazard switch operation with stock flasher... hazards should continue to work only when switch is pressed and hazards go off when switch is released with this resistor in place. If this is so, then the big hope is to reconnect that cut line to BIU and see if doing this triggers hazards immediately again. If they stay off, do a lock on the remote and see if you get a flash. If this doesn't work, you might step up to 1200 ohm, making a stronger pull up. If you bought 2 x 2400 resistors, this is just putting both in parallel across pins 4 and 8. If that doesn't "cure" the BIU, I'd suggest stopping there. Do all this with stock flasher. Don't put a web electric product in your car again.

bCaff, that wire you cut to quash the hazards flashing all the time: "move the cut" down closer to the BIU so just the flasher-BIU connection is severed, leaving flasher-hazard switch intact. Not having hazards when you need them is a hazard! Do the test in post#9 of this thread to SEE for a fact if the BIU is having an issue or not getting confirmation pulse out. Your observation of ohm meter on the hazard pin while locking is a promising sign the BIU is trying to do something (sends confirmation pulse), and yes, maybe you're right the web electric flasher is not fast enough to recognize the pulse (this is very likely). Trying a known good stock flasher in the car should rank higher on the to-do list than BIU search and replace.. at this time. Grab any 8pin Denso flasher from a Toyota in the junk yard.. if that's a faster way of getting one. Tons of them out there, here's a partial list: Subaru BRZ all years Subaru Impreza 2008 up Outback Sport Subaru XV Crosstrek 2012 up Subaru Legacy 2004 up Liberty, Outback Subaru WRX 2008 up Subaru STI 2008 up Subaru Tribeca 2006 up Toyota Camry 2001 to 2012 XV30, XV40, XV50, Aurion, Daihatsu Altis, Altise Toyota FJ Cruiser 2007 to 2012 Toyota Prius 2003 to 2012 Toyota Prius C 2012 Toyota Prius V 2012 Toyota Tundra 2000 to 2006 Toyota Sequoia 2001 to 2007 Toyota Avalon 2005 to 2012 XX30, Pronard, Aurion Toyota 4Runner 2003 to 2009 SW4, Hilux Surf Toyota Corolla 2002 to 2008 Axio, Altis, Fielder Toyota Yaris 2000 to 2010 Echo, Vitz, Platz, Belta, XP10 Toyota RAV4 2000 to 2005 XA20 Toyota Matrix 2003 to 2008 Toyota Celica 2000 to 2006 Toyota Sienna 2004 to 2010 Toyota Solara 2004 to 2009 Toyota Tacoma 2005 to 2012

<bump> bCaff what's the latest, keep us posted

Just an obvious but maybe overlooked thing, are you pushing the plug into the flasher until it clicks solidly into place... So you'd have to press the tab on the side of the plug in order to remove it again? And I'm wondering if with all the swapping some of the pin receptacles in the plug have expanded and are now fitting loosely around the pin? If that's all good I have a feeling this is grounding related and there is a fuzzy ground, maybe in the combination switch. Has your car suffered flood damage?

Well, an easy way is to snip that wire you see on the schematics above, hanging off the side of the "pin8 to hazard switch" connection, this is the line that goes off the page to the BIU (that you can't see on that page of the schematics). Without this line going to BIU there will be no arming flashes. The only purpose of the line from BIU to flasher hazard input is for arming flashes. Off hand I forget if there's a way to do equivalent thing of snipping this line, with only a software parameter change at BUI (either with or without a programming device).

There's a pretty easy rig you can try to test if the BIU is functioning fine for dis/arm pulses. You need an LED and a resistor (2kohm) wired in series, connect the anode to +12 batt power found on the flasher harness pin4, the cathode to resistor, and the other side of the resistor to pin8 (hazard input) on the harness. Do this with flasher unplugged, and hazard switch off. Press the hazard switch on to test this LED lights which verifies your rig. Then turn hazard off again, and use remote to lock car. The led should pulse just like you'd expect signals to show. Unlock the car, should show a double pulse on the led. If it does this the biu is fine... Remove rig.

By the way, I really know the way stock flashers work quite well and can bench test any kind of failure modes.. So I did. Here are some results that might help you understand and diagnose your stock flasher: Grounding the hazard input (normally done by the hazard switch) puts the flasher into normal speed hazard blinking, even if you have LEDs signal bulbs, this will not hyperblink the way signaling left or right does with LEDs. Hazard mode ignores bulb type and burned out bulbs and always gives 90cpm blinking. Hazard mode works with or without IGN power applied to the flasher. When IGN power is applied, as in when you are driving, the left and right inputs become actively monitored. If you ground a signal direction (normally done by the signal stalk) then you get blinks in that direction. If you have LEDs you get hyperblink. But if you ground both signal inputs when IGN is on, you get hazard mode, as above. And if you have LEDs it will not hyperblink, you get steady 90cpm cycles. This is a fault mode. If you ground both signal inputs with no IGN power also applied, you get nothing. Here's what the body control unit does for arm flashes: it briefly yanks the hazard line to ground, once or twice depending on if you are locking or unlocking. Each yank gives a pulse as it is held down to ground, the flash goes off when it releases the line. If the hazard switch is pressed already when locking the car then you are getting a continuous stream of hazard flashes, and arming the car does nothing extra because BIU is yanking down a line that is already at ground. And ground is ground, the flasher cannot detect or discern what is holding hazard input to ground it just knows to do hazard blinking cycles for as long as it is held there by "anything". I really hope this explanation helps in some way.

When you get a stock flasher working in your car, Send me your Web electric flasher, any of 'em but preferably the first one you tried that fried your system and I will send you a free brand new Tapturn flasher (I make 'em). If you can't get the stock flasher working it sounds like you have a short in one or more of the signal control lines going to the flasher, or you have a burnt component in the car's body control unit computer that controls the dis/arm flashing and I would be sorry to hear that's what the Web electric flasher did to your car. As soon as you can find / fix the short issue and do whatever it takes to get a stock flasher working normally for everything, pull it out and put in the Tapturn and put your LEDs back in too and just begin enjoying a rock solid experience with correct signals, hazards, and arm flashes. And convenience signaling! This is not the first Web electric flasher that I've heard frying things, or itself. It just sounds sucky. I want to stick one on my wall, with a sign that says "This is why you get Tapturn."

Even if the loss is lower due to transmission, and noise is better, if it's all shielded well, you're still transmitting and using FM receiver characteristics in the head unit instead of CD, which is worse quality. But you're right, it's the best way to optimize the second best choice.

Thanks to FishPoo for some space... follow this link for 2007. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44988 Scott

Who can help me host this stuff? Couple hundred megs of pure joy to share. Regards Scott

I'm hauling down 07 now.. tedious looking for a place to stick 'em soon...

No problems here.. it's been months. Happy since the day I did it. I enlarged the (grey plastic) bezel opening behind the clear lens for the drivers side, but not the passenger side. This way the passenger can navigate using the map light without disturbing the the driver. Scott

Is anybody planning to take a trip in 2007, and can share brochures about that specific year?? It seems there are some significant changes in the comfort and convenience for next year and is worth taking a look at. Thanks Scott