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Eccentric bolt for rear camber adjustment


NHLEG

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you would need an adjustable upper or lower control arms. The legacy is based on a 4 point multilink design in the rear and does not have a strut type configuration. -1 camber is actually quite nice for sporty daily driving
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you need adjustable lateral links to make that change. Currently, the stock eccentric bolt is used mainly for toe.. but because of the design, it also slight changes the toe.

 

Stock should be -1.0 degree anyways (WRXs are and their geometry isn't THAT different). Reason for it is that this keeps the rear end planted through the turns and keeps the back end tucked in (because some people just dont know how to keep the back end from swinging out). I am currently running -1.7 degrees on my car with a full load. Just run a lower tire pressure in the rear and rotate your tires at every oil change (hopefully the 3,000 mile oil change).

Keefe
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The static geometry is not too diffrent. But the Dynamic Geometry of the LGT is VERY nice.

 

The more you lean and the more the suspension compresses in the rear the more negative camber you get at a higher rate than a Chapman strut design in the wrx.

 

The LGT rear multilink acts like a modified Short Long A-Arm design in that the harder you corner the more camber it adds.

 

Thats how they got away with using much heavier springrates in the rear and such soft springs in the front. If you did that on a WRX you would loop the car every time you lifted off the gas.

 

Because of the dynamic camber change lean in the car dosent change the tire contact patch so much.

 

I bet if the LGT came with 50 or so more horsepower stock it would be very competitive in STU. Too bad your not allowed to touch the boost in the class. My current setup is WAY more stable in the corners than my WRX ever was.

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you need adjustable lateral links to make that change. Currently, the stock eccentric bolt is used mainly for toe.. but because of the design, it also slight changes the toe.

 

Stock should be -1.0 degree anyways (WRXs are and their geometry isn't THAT different). Reason for it is that this keeps the rear end planted through the turns and keeps the back end tucked in (because some people just dont know how to keep the back end from swinging out). I am currently running -1.7 degrees on my car with a full load. Just run a lower tire pressure in the rear and rotate your tires at every oil change (hopefully the 3,000 mile oil change).

 

Well, Keefe, I'm -1.1 and -1.2 (within specs) and that's exactly what the allignment tech said, rotate w/ oil changes.

 

And, yes, the car corners like you wouldn't believe (well, actually you would believe it :) ). In the past week I've installed Proxes 4's and ion's. What a difference :D ! Already had whitline sways front and rear so my suspension mods are complete (until SPT comes out w/ the adjustable strut kit like my friend has on his 2.5RS coupe - $500 and WELL worth it).

 

What tire pressure should I be running? Fronts are -.4 each. Rears are -1.2 and -1.1.

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Wow....they look nice. I guess that replaces the control arm/lateral link that my Perrin swaybar dinged to hell?? Are these in addition to or an option instead of the STi set?

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/avoshop/images/150_sti_links.jpg

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Hmm...I can't remeber the terminology for the rear arms...but if you get under the car, the rear links have 2 lower arms. one of them is attached to toe adjusting eccentric bolts, and for the lack of better term, I call that the toe link. The other lower arm would be the one you want to replace with the Laile link to adjust camber. I would say that the "control arm/lateral link that my Perrin swaybar dinged to hell" would be the toe arm that I am refering to, and it would be the longer of the 2 arms in the picture you posted.
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