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Jacobpockros's 2001 Legacy GT Limited Sedan 5-Speed thread


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Update:

 

 

Have almost 146k now. Adjusted Valves and replaced Exhaust Manifold Gaskets. Ran normal again after that with no codes. Steering rack started leaking badly so I managed to find a used OEM rack with only 12k miles on it. Installed new OEM inner tie rods and threw it in:

 

 

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Had a custom 2.25" Bolt-on Catback made using a Magnaflow 14832 Muffler:

 

 

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Added some DNA Motoring (Speed Daddy) UEL Headers. Should have done this a long time ago. Also added some longer bolts and spacers for the Skid Plate so it would clear:

 

 

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Found a rare Woodgrain Momo Shift Knob on the Subaru Outback forums that came as a dealer-added option on a BH Subaru Outback that was in Canada. It's a direct match to the rest of the wood trim (makes me wonder if Momo specifically modeled these from Subaru?):

 

 

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Finally installed my Woodgrain Outback LL Bean Steering Wheel that was sitting in my closet for nearly two years lol. I really wanted to use an 04' WRX Airbag as opposed to the 03' since Subaru designed the colors of the emblems to match the speedometer needles. To do this I had to swap an 03' charge onto the 04' airbag since the 04' uses a different plug style. Pretty sure the charges are identical besides that since they both bolt right in. Anywho, pics:

 

 

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Also switched to a staggered set of tires and now run 205's up front and 225's in the back.

Edited by Jacobpockros
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Staggered width at 205/225? any issues with drive-line binding due unequal grip?

 

I mean as long as the rolling dia, is equal my inner engineer says should be fine, but with changes in width the difference in contact patch and torque area a tire see's tells me maybe not.

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Staggered width at 205/225? any issues with drive-line binding due unequal grip?

 

I mean as long as the rolling dia, is equal my inner engineer says should be fine, but with changes in width the difference in contact patch and torque area a tire see's tells me maybe not.

 

Overall diameters are completely equal at 25.0 inches according to Sumitomo's specifications. Fronts are 205/50/17 and rears are 225/45/17. Much more stable around corners now. I can't speak on contact patches, but I do know that you can manipulate driving styles that put more wear on front tires than rear tires, or vice versa. A lot of awd German cars run staggered tires from the factory, so that's the logic I'm trying to go with.

Edited by Jacobpockros
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to check your german car logic, take a piece of chalk and mark 12 o'clock on all for tires, go straight for as long as you can and then check if all marks are still in the same spot, straight being the key word.

 

More than likely you'll be fine with such a negligible difference, just got to watch the tire wear as front will wear out faster. can't really see how you'd wear rears faster on the leggy.

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Overall diameters are completely equal at 25.0 inches according to Sumitomo's specifications. Fronts are 205/50/17 and rears are 225/45/17. Much more stable around corners now. I can't speak on contact patches, but I do know that you can manipulate driving styles that put more wear on front tires than rear tires, or vice versa. A lot of awd German cars run staggered tires from the factory, so that's the logic I'm trying to go with.

 

Agreed, as the viscous diff in our transmissions is based on a shaft speed delta to react too not a torque delta, and as long as the circumference of the circle is equal there shouldnt be an issue... but that does play into tire wear and tire rotation.

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  • 7 months later...

Update:

 

 

Took awhile but got all the pictures in here back up after transferring everything over to Flickr. Almost at 154k and still going strong. Made a clean Ganzflow intake and added a K&N Drop-in and I have a black Perrin Underdrive pulley that I need to install. I also purchased a piggyback that I may or may not keep that has pre-tuned Rallitek maps on it. Have not installed that either. The stock exhaust is back on the car for the moment as I'm going to redo that setup from scratch as well. Headlights became foggy and then one of them got hit by some foreign object, so I replaced the broken one and then got them both buffed out. I should have more interesting news and pictures once 2018 hits.

 

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Edited by Jacobpockros
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  • 2 months later...

Update:

 

 

Haven’t changed much but have a couple pictures of my 9whp Ganzflow intake/K&N setup and the Perrin Lightweight Pulley:

 

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Getting the new catback made tomorrow and currently looking for an extra set of cams to send in for a 1500 regrind.

Edited by Jacobpockros
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This is the most popular intake design on RS25 and someone did a before/after dyno and made 9whp. My design allows even more air to go in than what they were using. Ram air seems to make a difference on these engines and I might see if I can get figure out a way to let more air through the front of the bumper without chopping things up and looking ghetto. Edited by Jacobpockros
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Update:

 

Gave some overdue attention to the subi. Clutch slip got so bad that I barely made it home. New disk, flywheel, tob, various hardware, and a couple rebuilt axles. Also did front bushings/balljoints while things were apart. All oem subaru parts. Also replaced the rear main seal, but I’m pissed because I found out that it was a pointless thing to do on these engines... after I pulled the old one out. Regardless, car drives amazing now. Just need to align it.

 

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Almost at 160k miles now

Edited by Jacobpockros
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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Update!

 

Been very busy since I got a new job as a Technician at Ford/Hyundai. I guess this stuff is becoming more commonplace!

 

My car started to slip into the phase of “too many problems” and I did not want to lose her. Waterpump gasket blew at 173,000 miles and I had no history if the headgaskets had ever been replaced so I decided to “bulletproof” the motor so I can venture into the 200k mile club.

 

Pulled the heads so I could do new gaskets everywhere. I believe leaving the engine in the car is not a bad way to do it and I don’t want to see the engine out of my baby if I don’t have to (even though I do heavy line for a living at the dealership).

 

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All parts oem from Subaru.

 

Oem Headgaskets

Oem head bolts (just because)

Oem crank seal

Oem waterpump with gasket/o-ring

Oem Tensioner bracket gaskets (because)

Oem Tensioners/idlers

Oem Timing belt

Oem Water pipe gaskets

Oem Intake manifold gaskets

Oem Throttle body gasket (just because)

Oem Valve cover gaskets

Oem Oil pan

Oem Three-bond sealant

Oem Upper/lower radiator hoses

Oem Heater inlet/outlet hoses

Oem serpentine belts

 

 

Even spent $200 to get all the non-essential foam/rubber pieces that go on the plastic pieces behind the timing belt cover (which I’ve ALSO replaced):

 

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I’ve spent $2,000 in OEM parts for this job. Does not include the rebuilt heads.

 

 

Also got a second set of cams to put in and sent them to Delta for a 1500 regrind. Should have more mid range power now:

 

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Had the heads rebuilt at the machine shop with the carbon cleaned out and new oem valve stem seals. Everything else was reusable:

 

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Tires were also shot. The best dry-handling tire I could find (besides Michelin) was the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500. Needless to say I don’t regret my decision, and $110 per tire sounded appealing:

 

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Here she is back together.... 7.5 months later (a job that would normally take days if I was at work lol):

 

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I’m lucky to have a Subaru master tech as a friend who stepped in a few times to make sure it was done the “right” way and to take the wheel on a few steps I wanted done only by someone that lives and breaths these engines (which is not me).

I plan on keeping this car tucked away somewhere after I phase it out one day so that’s why I wanted to do the motor so much justice. I want to keep this car for a long time. As of right now everything has been addressed and brought back to life, and it pulls so much better with cams. Now being completely maintained I have confidence to daily it again. I did push my cam seals in too far, so I have one problem that I need to go back and readdress in a few months. Other than that she lives on.

 

Current mod list:

 

- Delta 1500 Cams

- DNA Motoring UEL's

- Magnaflow 14832 Catback

- Ganzflow and K&N Drop-in

- Perrin Lightweight Crank Pulley

- Tein S-Tech Springs

- KYB Struts

- 1" Rear Tophat Spacers

- Whiteline Front & Rear Sway Bars

- eBay Strut Bar

- DR-31 Wheels

- Outback LL Bean Steering Wheel

- Yakima Roof Rack

- eBay 3000K Yellow Fog Bulbs

 

I’m also slowly working on a patch harness so I can put my piggyback tune on. Once’s that’s on I’m hoping to make 200hp crank awd.

Edited by Jacobpockros
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  • 5 months later...

Well, not much of an Update but after 7 years of searching I finally found a company that sells White strut bars for the na BE chassis. Behold:

 

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Starting to make progress on a patch harness I’ve been wanting to build to run my tune.... and i’m 50% along the way on finding some high quality headlights to rejuvenate. Other than that, car seems mechanically healthy aside from needing to fix a bad cam seal leak. Gas mileage has been very 2020 this season, might throw a new O2 on this spoiled bitch and see if anything changes.

Edited by Jacobpockros
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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...
  • 3 months later...

So after a huge ordeal finally found a replacement for my old car. I briefly bought a 2-owner 2016 WRX that clearly had some work done to it in the past and was quickly put back to stock to be traded in. I did not feel comfortable with this purchase and after 2 months decided to try to locate a new off-the-lot car. This process proved to be somewhat difficult as you cannot order 2015-2021 bodystyle WRX’s anymore. Most 2021 WRX’s that are still new are cars that customers have ordered months ago and backed out on after they arrived at dealerships. Additionally, right now is a bad time to buy a new car since there are inventory shortages and dealer markups. Despite this, managed to find a new 21’ White/black Limited 6spd at a Subaru dealership in Irvine and made the drive over to trade my 2016 in. It was not a convenient purchase, but as a die-hard car enthusiast it needed to be right. Lo and behold the new story of a Legacy:

 

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So far my plans are to take it easy on this car and drive it like an old lady. I will be keeping it on stock tune for some time since I have no erge to race my car. No stage 1 or 2 or any of that…. I do have a few small reversible modifications planned for it but will be keeping every receipt on parts that are ordered so this car has an easy-going documented life. I will highlight all my upkeep and “car treats” in this thread (as well as Nasioc).

Edited by Jacobpockros
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  • 1 month later...

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