Jacobpockros Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 (edited) Alrighty, moving right along... Update: Boxes started rolling in: ^ Cups? Naw it can't be! (or at least I don't remember ordering them.) ^ hmm? Luckily not cups in the first picture. They are brand new H&R Wagon Lowering Springs and KYB GR-2 Struts and Shocks: 1 of the 2 boxes in the second picture is this rare OEM STI Front Strut Bar only available in Japan to my knowledge. I spent around 4 hours taking it apart, washing, claybar'ing and waxing each individual piece as well as throughly polishing each bolt and metal part. Here it is all cleaned up: The package next to the strut bar was this Yakima Roof Rack: All of these parts will be installed by me in the next few weeks. Stay tuned! - Jake Edited July 14, 2017 by Jacobpockros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 That is one clean car!!! Subscribed for progress. Congratulations!!! GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 (edited) Update: Took my front brake rotors off to get resurfaced. Although there was plenty of meat on the rotors, they were too warped to cut, so I ended up buying brand new OEM Legacy Front Rotors and Pads: Also installed the H&R Springs and KYB Struts/Shocks: Then installed my Yakima Roof Rack. Final results: The brakes are great, the roof rack looks badass, the KYB Struts/Shocks absorb the bumps well, but I dislike the springs. I want to say the front dropped 1.5" and the rear only dropped 1" (if that). Case in point, I'm replacing the H&R springs with King Springs. I ordered them today and they should be here in 3 weeks. King Springs is an Australian brand which is why they are gonna take 3 weeks to get here. They are made specifically for the 2000-2004 Sedans and drop them 1.75ish (not sure) in both the front and rear. Will update thread when they get here. - Jake Edited July 14, 2017 by Jacobpockros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Looking good mang. Keep up the great work. Love a clean "white" LGT of all the gens. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Gage Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Kings good upgrade my buddy has a lifted set on his forester he loves them. But that rack ehhhh looks kind of cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Kings good upgrade my buddy has a lifted set on his forester he loves them. But that rack ehhhh looks kind of cheap. Good to hear about the springs. The roof rack is not cheap, you just need to see better pictures of it. I did not take detailed pictures. The Yakima roof racks are one of the best roof racks you can buy. If I didn't piece mine together from used parts, it would have cost $500-$600. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Yakimas are definately nice and a good choice. Was wondering about that "cheap" reference. He obviously didn't know what he was looking at. Nice Ride!!!!! Looks great!! GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoggy Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 ...but I dislike the springs. I want to say the front dropped 1.5" and the rear only dropped 1" (if that). Case in point, I'm replacing the H&R springs with King Springs. Not sure if you're looking for more drop all the way around or not but you have to let springs 'settle' so to speak. I have the H&R's and the front is closer to 1.7" and the rear is almost the same... King springs are great, but they will settle also. Just keep it in mind. Car looks great man, I wish I had white. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) Not sure if you're looking for more drop all the way around or not but you have to let springs 'settle' so to speak. I have the H&R's and the front is closer to 1.7" and the rear is almost the same... King springs are great, but they will settle also. Just keep it in mind. Car looks great man, I wish I had white. I have a hard time believing that the rear is almost the same height as the front on your car. Post up a picture to prove me wrong. The general consensus is that it takes 500 miles for springs to settle. I just hit 500 miles on them and they still look VERY uneven. Got a call from the King Springs distributer today and they said they should be here in less than 3 weeks, faster than previously thought. Thanks for the compliment by the way. White is a nice color but it gets dirty quickly. Edited June 20, 2013 by Jacobpockros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 Gary at Mann Engineering says that progressive street springs like Eibach, H&R, RCE, Swift, etc. often take 10,000 miles or more to settle fully. I just installed H&Rs on my 5th Gen and the claimed drop is 1.3" front and rear. I have 3,000 miles on them and I am only 1" lower than OEM right now. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 Swifts are not progressive, but they do take quite a while to settle. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) Gary at Mann Engineering says that progressive street springs like Eibach, H&R, RCE, Swift, etc. often take 10,000 miles or more to settle fully. I just installed H&Rs on my 5th Gen and the claimed drop is 1.3" front and rear. I have 3,000 miles on them and I am only 1" lower than OEM right now. I do not believe it takes 10,000 miles. Again, general consensus states 500 miles. If you do a google search you're gonna find an overwhelming amount of results that states this. Giving it the Benefit of the doubt though, if it really is 10,000 miles, that's way too long for me to want to wait to see my springs settle. The king Springs were designed for the sedan. The H&R's aren't. I'd much rather Lower my car on the correct springs for proper driving performance and looks. I knew the whole time that the H&R's weren't going to look right on my Sedan, but thought I would give them a try. Edited June 22, 2013 by Jacobpockros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 I needed about 800-1000 miles for my Swift Sport Wagon-specific springs to settle, but they were on Bilsteins, so I'm sure that was one of the reasons that it took longer. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted June 21, 2013 Author Share Posted June 21, 2013 (edited) I needed about 800-1000 miles for my Swift Sport Wagon-specific springs to settle, but they were on Bilsteins, so I'm sure that was one of the reasons that it took longer. In reality, springs are constantly settling (sagging). They just do it extremely slowly over time, which is why cars with such high mileage often have the saggy-ass lowrider look (especially wagons). However, the initial spring settling for new springs will be very progressive until it hits it's threshold of noticeably sagging (which as stated is usually 500 miles). I'll take your word that it took 800-1000 miles for your springs to settle, mainly because Bilstein makes one hell of an assembly. However, KYB assembly's are rated much closer to your average stock performing shock than a Bilstein is in terms of easier compression, so I'm convinced I won't see any more of a height change with my H&R's (maybe years from now, but who wants to wait that long?). Edited June 21, 2013 by Jacobpockros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoggy Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 (edited) I have a hard time believing that the rear is almost the same height as the front on your car. Post up a picture to prove me wrong. The general consensus is that it takes 500 miles for springs to settle. I just hit 500 miles on them and they still look VERY uneven. Got a call from the King Springs distributer today and they said they should be here in less than 3 weeks, faster than previously thought. Thanks for the compliment by the way. White is a nice color but it gets dirty quickly. See this thread here for a before and after picture of my car about a month after the install: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/need-suspension-01-legacy-gtl-sedan-171330.html?t=171330&highlight=stoggy Now look at the pic below. About 12000km after install. http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x387/stoggy95/subaru_handr_zps71ac011a.jpg I think the pics speak for themselves. The rear, as you said, is not the same ride height as the front. You noticed when you installed yours that there is a rake to the vehicle. Mine had a rake too, obviously. Keeping in mind the relationship to the front ride height the rear has dropped 1-5/8" and the front has dropped 1-11/16" from the measurements I had from stock. To put it simply, the rake is still there, it's just lower all around. It DOES NOT sit level like you are looking for but it is definitely lower than your car is fresh after the install. With your King Springs when you have a load in the truck or people in the back etc you will have a saggy ass end which is (to me) unappealing. I am happy with the rake. I've had over 550lbs of shit in the car and it sits nice and level and doesn't bounce or nothing. About the 'settling' period for springs, it really depends on the brand of struts, the driving style and how many km are on them. I have never seen springs settle in 500km, it just has never happened for me. I have always seen lower results with any brand (I'm talking, Eibach, H&R, TIEN, HKS, King Springs, OEM, etc). I've literally installed several dozen coil springs in my life--both factory and aftermarket--and they always take way longer than 500km to settle in. That said, this is the internet and most of it is make believe. I'm speaking not from the internet but from my personal experiences on various vehicles from cars to semi trucks with leaf springs and air bags. Even air bags settle. Just my .02 on that matter. Edited June 21, 2013 by stoggy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted June 22, 2013 Author Share Posted June 22, 2013 (edited) See this thread here for a before and after picture of my car about a month after the install: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/need-suspension-01-legacy-gtl-sedan-171330.html?t=171330&highlight=stoggy Now look at the pic below. About 12000km after install. http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x387/stoggy95/subaru_handr_zps71ac011a.jpg I think the pics speak for themselves. The rear, as you said, is not the same ride height as the front. You noticed when you installed yours that there is a rake to the vehicle. Mine had a rake too, obviously. Keeping in mind the relationship to the front ride height the rear has dropped 1-5/8" and the front has dropped 1-11/16" from the measurements I had from stock. To put it simply, the rake is still there, it's just lower all around. It DOES NOT sit level like you are looking for but it is definitely lower than your car is fresh after the install. With your King Springs when you have a load in the truck or people in the back etc you will have a saggy ass end which is (to me) unappealing. I am happy with the rake. I've had over 550lbs of shit in the car and it sits nice and level and doesn't bounce or nothing. About the 'settling' period for springs, it really depends on the brand of struts, the driving style and how many km are on them. I have never seen springs settle in 500km, it just has never happened for me. I have always seen lower results with any brand (I'm talking, Eibach, H&R, TIEN, HKS, King Springs, OEM, etc). I've literally installed several dozen coil springs in my life--both factory and aftermarket--and they always take way longer than 500km to settle in. That said, this is the internet and most of it is make believe. I'm speaking not from the internet but from my personal experiences on various vehicles from cars to semi trucks with leaf springs and air bags. Even air bags settle. Just my .02 on that matter. From looking at your picture, there is a shadow over the front tire that gives the false impression of more wheel gap than there really is. The picture shows significantly less pixels for the width of the tire at the top portion than it does for the sides: http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r247/jacobpockros/Edited%20Pictures/6b1af302-a4a2-4390-a34f-ff68fd4de6a5_zps3bcbe814.jpg Even with shadow creating a false image of front wheel gap, you can't see the top of the tire on the front wheel. It looks like it's tucked in. When you look at the back wheel, you can still see on top of the tire, even the tread. This in my book this does not qualify for "almost the same height" because if you were to put on wider tires the reality of the height difference would show it's logic. You would have front tires holding the weight of the car by it's front fenders and a very noticeable gap between the rear tires that you can fit your hand under. It's not a good example to use when your wheels are tucked in. However, I have to give you credit that your springs took longer than 500 miles to settle all the way around. If you google how it long it usually takes, you often see the results of a few hundred miles. Also, none of the other cars I have owned have taken over 500 miles. I find it odd that yours do. Edit: From looking at your build thread, you edited the picture above to make it look lower than it really is. This is your original picture taken from your build thread: http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x387/stoggy95/Shibas/032F270F-E4F3-4F66-8C4D-4D5B32EAE35B-14019-00000838226465CF.jpg Source: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my-02-legacy-gt-161445p2.html Edited July 1, 2013 by Jacobpockros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoggy Posted June 23, 2013 Share Posted June 23, 2013 (edited) Before I say anything about your last post (which is utterly ridiculous) I must say a few things about you. I have done a search on all your posts and/or threads. It seems you have well over a dozen threads about your suspension needs/requirements, which is fine. However when someone answers the questions you ask in way or manner that you don't like you seem to get ignorant. I am not the only one that feels this way as it has been expressed several times by several users. Let me explain a few things about forums to you: This is LegacyGT.com. It is a forum. Welcome. It's a place where people from around the world gather to discuss a specific topic. In this case it is Subaru Legacy's. You have a Legacy. I have a Legacy. We all have Legacy's. We all have our own unique individual experiences with these particular vehicles including the parts (OEM or aftermarket) that bolt on to them. If you feel that ones experience is not inline with your needs or requirements then simply ignore it. DO NOT call it out and start a war because you will not win, and none of us will win either. There is a term for people like you: TROLLS. You are a troll. How does it feel? I wouldn't know because I only contribute useful information. I do not disprove others experiences. How do you know what is right or wrong? Oh wait...Google. You seem to rely on Google a lot for your information that you use to put others down. If you love Google so much I don't even know why you're on this forum. If you can find all your information based on general consensus on Google then you clearly DO NOT belong in a forum. You are ignorant when it comes to suspension but mostly to your fellow forum members. No wonder no one wants to help you. I certainly don't. I do however admire your pickiness with OEM specs and whatnot. I am the same way. I am very picky with everything in my life, not just my cars. If I cannot find the answer on here, I resort elsewhere. I DO NOT get mad and flame others or post 'how hard is it for you guys just to look?' It is not your place to order others to do your dirty work. If they have something to contribute that they think you may find helpful, believe me they will post it. You have NO RIGHT to assume anyone on this forum is obligated in any way, shape or form to help you with your needs. You have every right to ignore anything and everything that is said on this forum if you feel it does not help you in your quest for information. --- Okay on to the real post here: this is my last post to you because now you're getting defensive. It seems to me like you need to justify to yourself the reason why your car does not sit the way you want. You need to make yourself feel better for wasting hundreds of dollars on a suspension setup that you knew full well would not look the way you needed it to. However you felt compelled to install it anyways and then hate on others that had a different experience with these parts. Just because your car didn't turn out the way you wanted it to does not mean you have to pick mine apart. So, if you actually read my post you would have noticed that I said there is still a rake to the ride height. In order to explain myself again, I can see I'm really going to have to dumb this down for you: The H&R sport springs for this car are sold with 2 short springs and 2 tall springs. The short are for the front. The tall are for the rear. If you compress each spring by 1.7" (roughly the ride height drop I experienced) you will still have a short spring and a tall spring. I never once said my car rides level, not sure where you got that from. You can try this at home if you don't believe me. I can also see you did not do your due diligence before you picked it apart. If you did you would have read that I have 8" wide wheels with 215 rubber. This explains in great detail why you cannot see the top of the tire on the front because it is stretched a little bit. What thatmeans is that the tire is not square to the rim, it stretches in towards the inside of the fender. Also, through the power of your previous deduction, sherlock--the wheel is tucked. The rear is not tucked as you also stated because the car does NOT sit level. I cannot fit one finger between the front fender and the tire. I can fit two fingers between the rear fender and the tire. I'm not even going to comment on the fact that you rely on Google for your information about spring settling. Oops, I just did. By the way your image resizing skills are outstanding. Unsubscribed. Edited June 23, 2013 by stoggy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted June 24, 2013 Author Share Posted June 24, 2013 (edited) Before I say anything about your last post (which is utterly ridiculous) I must say a few things about you. I have done a search on all your posts and/or threads. It seems you have well over a dozen threads about your suspension needs/requirements, which is fine. However when someone answers the questions you ask in way or manner that you don't like you seem to get ignorant. I am not the only one that feels this way as it has been expressed several times by several users. Let me explain a few things about forums to you This only other thread you searched that you see trouble with is my current thread on which way the struts and shocks face. There are two trolls in that thread posting about how much they hate the thread instead of contributing to it. They have both been reported and I'm hoping it gets cleaned out soon. If you feel that ones experience is not inline with your needs or requirements then simply ignore it. DO NOT call it out and start a war because you will not win, and none of us will win either. There is a term for people like you: TROLLS. You are a troll. How does it feel? I wouldn't know because I only contribute useful information. I do not disprove others experiences. How do you know what is right or wrong? Oh wait...Google. You seem to rely on Google a lot for your information that you use to put others down. If you love Google so much I don't even know why you're on this forum. If you can find all your information based on general consensus on Google then you clearly DO NOT belong in a forum. You are ignorant when it comes to suspension but mostly to your fellow forum members. No wonder no one wants to help you. I certainly don't. I feel as though you're taking my post as an insult? It's not an insult, it simply states that the H&R springs aren't as close to being level as you were making it out to be. You seem to be offended that I don't like the rake look? Most people think it looks better than non-rake so I don't see why you take it as me trolling? I'm getting trolled right now in another thread as stated so being a troll to someone is the last thing I want to do right now. I do however admire your pickiness with OEM specs and whatnot. I am the same way. I am very picky with everything in my life, not just my cars. If I cannot find the answer on here, I resort elsewhere. I DO NOT get mad and flame others or post 'how hard is it for you guys just to look?' It is not your place to order others to do your dirty work. If they have something to contribute that they think you may find helpful, believe me they will post it. You have NO RIGHT to assume anyone on this forum is obligated in any way, shape or form to help you with your needs. You have every right to ignore anything and everything that is said on this forum if you feel it does not help you in your quest for information. The people I'm asking "how hard is it for you guys just to look?" to are the people who are trolling me in the thread while not making a single contribution. If someone doesn't want to answer one of my questions, they shouldn't have to! However, if that's the case they also have no need posting in it because it's nothing but clutter. That's why threads (such as classifieds for example) are so heavily watched on forums, people don't want their threads to have useless clutter that's irrelevant to their thread and only making it more confusing. I'm sure you understand that as you have many posts on your belt. Okay on to the real post here: this is my last post to you because now you're getting defensive. It seems to me like you need to justify to yourself the reason why your car does not sit the way you want. You need to make yourself feel better for wasting hundreds of dollars on a suspension setup that you knew full well would not look the way you needed it to. However you felt compelled to install it anyways and then hate on others that had a different experience with these parts. Just because your car didn't turn out the way you wanted it to does not mean you have to pick mine apart. I'm not trying to be defensive. As a matter of fact, I acknowledged that you proved me wrong about the springs taking over 500 miles to settle. All I was trying to say was that I don't agree that the H&R springs will ever be very close to being level. Most people I talk to like that look, and they make fun of me for wanting to do the work all over again just to have an equal ride height. I think you took it personally as an attack. That's not what it is. If it sounded like one than I apologize. So, if you actually read my post you would have noticed that I said there is still a rake to the ride height. In order to explain myself again, I can see I'm really going to have to dumb this down for you: The H&R sport springs for this car are sold with 2 short springs and 2 tall springs. The short are for the front. The tall are for the rear. If you compress each spring by 1.7" (roughly the ride height drop I experienced) you will still have a short spring and a tall spring. I never once said my car rides level, not sure where you got that from. You can try this at home if you don't believe me. I can also see you did not do your due diligence before you picked it apart. If you did you would have read that I have 8" wide wheels with 215 rubber. This explains in great detail why you cannot see the top of the tire on the front because it is stretched a little bit. What thatmeans is that the tire is not square to the rim, it stretches in towards the inside of the fender. Also, through the power of your previous deduction, sherlock--the wheel is tucked. The rear is not tucked as you also stated because the car does NOT sit level. I cannot fit one finger between the front fender and the tire. I can fit two fingers between the rear fender and the tire. Once again, no need to explain yourself for what I said about your car, it's not an insult, we just simply have the same suspension. You are stating you have 8" wide wheels with 215's on them, saying that is why you can't see the top of the tire. I'm assuming your rear wheels are the same though? Correct me if I'm wrong. I could be. I'm not even going to comment on the fact that you rely on Google for your information about spring settling. Oops, I just did. By the way your image resizing skills are outstanding. Unsubscribed. Again, I did not mean to offend you, so no need for these return-fire comments. I am sorry I offended you. As stated, it was not what my goal was of posting it. Edited June 24, 2013 by Jacobpockros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 (edited) Update: Got my rack set up to hold Surfboards the other day. Installed some new eBay Surfpads and used Surf Straps I had laying around: The Fairing was preventing the Front Pad from fitting around the bar so I cut two rectangular holes in the Pad and burned it's edges so it won't tear: Right before a friend and I hit the waves Edited July 14, 2017 by Jacobpockros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted June 27, 2013 Author Share Posted June 27, 2013 Also, ordered new wheels Stay tuned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted August 2, 2013 Author Share Posted August 2, 2013 (edited) Update: Lots and lots of changes to this car as well as more incoming in the following weeks and months. Lets start off with these: They are my new King Springs. The Rear Springs (Part Numbers KSRL-27) are designed specifically for the 3rd Generation Legacy BE Sedan. I'm not sure if any other Rear Springs exist for it. To my knowledge, everything else seems to be made for the Wagon. The Front Springs (Part Numbers KSFL-22) are made for the 93'-01' Imprezas. They are a direct fit for the 3rd Generation Legacy Sedan if you use the same Impreza Top Hats (Part Number 20323FA000) and Spring Seats (Part Number 20325FA000) that are required for the H&R Springs. This combination makes the car sit level (the Front King Springs that are designed for the 3rd generation Legacy Sedan acutually sit higher than the Rear Springs do, so the Impreza ones I have are actually the more appropriate parts to choose). So if you want an equal ride height for your 3rd Generation Legacy Sedan, you need Part Numbers KSFL-22 for the Front and Part Numbers KSRL-27 for the Rear, as well as Part Numbers 20323FA000 and 20325FA000 from Subaru. Here are some pictures of my install: From Left to Right: OEM Front Spring, H&R Front Spring, King Front Spring: From Left to Right: King Front Spring, OEM Front Spring, King Rear Spring, OEM Rear Spring: Here's a picture of the New King Springs reassembled back onto my New KYB GR-2 Struts and Shocks I was using for the last 2 months with the H&R's: This is how the car now sits with them in. Very level and proper-looking: Found out I have leaking Rocker Cover Gaskets as well as a bad Low RPM Missfire. Bought Brand New OEM Rocker Cover Gaskets, Rocker Cover Bolt Gaskets, Spark Plug Wires, and Spark Plugs: Right Rocker Cover removed: Left Rocker Cover removed: I used a mixture of Motor Oil and Wheel Bearing Grease to lube the Gaskets. I also cleaned the oil off that you see in the above pictures. Everything is back together now. Also ordered a Whiteline Adjustable Rear Sway Bar: Here are some comparison pictures between the Whiteline Bar and Stock: Here it is all installed after 2 hours total of removing the stock one and installing it. It was by far the trickiest Rear Sway install I've done due to the exhaust clearance: Edited August 10, 2017 by Jacobpockros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Well-done mang - car looks great. Not sure if the RSB bracing is as flimsy as the 4th Gen ones, but they don't look all that structurally sturdy. May want to watch that attachment point and if you see/sense signs of flex, then find a way to brace it. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoggy Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 I have the same bar (as do many) but from what I see you're using stock rear end links. Consider completing the package by upgrading the end links to Agency Power ones from an 05-09 Legacy, direct fit. http://www.agency-power.com/catalog/agency-power-rear-sway-links-subaru-legacy-p-7675.html?osCsid=f32mlslu946r2lu9s0qupitus5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacobpockros Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 I have the same bar (as do many) but from what I see you're using stock rear end links. Consider completing the package by upgrading the end links to Agency Power ones from an 05-09 Legacy, direct fit. http://www.agency-power.com/catalog/agency-power-rear-sway-links-subaru-legacy-p-7675.html?osCsid=f32mlslu946r2lu9s0qupitus5 That looks like a great upgrade! Thanks for letting me know about that. Unfortunatly, endlinks are not in my budget for this car right now. I'm only upgrading the bare bone parts for now. Did you notice a big difference with them in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Gage Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 The rear end links are know to go bad reducing the effectiveness of the rear sway bar. Mine went bad in my bh and i have stock rsb and springs. I replaced mine with whiteline klc 144. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now