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5th Gen Legacy - Suspension Mods


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Not that I've had experience with Pedders in Subarus, but from the Skyline scene they're generally looked at being "stock replacement" stuff, nothing fancy and if you're planning on running higher spring rates, don't get them unless they've valved it properly for those spring rates.

It's been speculated that Pedders dampers and Monroe dampers (or "shocks") are similar/same, and KYB is preferred over Monroe.

If you can get them cheap enough for a bolt-in package to replace worn suspension, you should be okay with them (assuming you're expecting standard-like performance).

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All bushings Pedder offers.

 

EP184 Diff-Support Outrigger Bushing - $39.20

EP7332 Urethane Rear Upper Lateral Arm Alignment Inner Bush (4 PKT) - $164.50

EP1191 Urethane Diff Mount Bush Insert (2PKT) - $46.20

EP1185 Urethane Crossmember F&R - $63.00

 

Are these worthwhile to install?

 

Need to confirm if these prices are in AUD or USD.

Edited by GhiaAddict
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The only offer RSB, these are the options:

 

BSR49 Swaybar 20mm-Heavy Duty

BSR49XXZ Swaybar 24mm-X H/D Adjustable

BSR49XZ Swaybar 22mm-X H/D Adjustable - $223.30

BSR49Z Swaybar 20mm-H/D Adjustable

 

Need to confirm if these prices are in AUD or USD

Edited by GhiaAddict
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These will fit our Legacys. This install was on my 2009 Forester XT.

 

Installed the SPC adjustable toe arms and SPL toe lockout this afternoon to get rid of my toe out situation since the stock toe arms were maxed out following lowering the car and installing adjustable lower control arms. The adjustable LCAs corrected my camber from approximately -2.5 to -1 degree by making them about 3/16" shorter than the stock LCAs. It took 2 hours.

 

Beefy units....

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160617/bb37ae7d2e7ecfa7a1056d1fa11eaebb.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160617/4430581947e73efdd3fb980e384d05b3.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160617/c163e52c12f182b39cf8003409569d92.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160617/cb19f3a2a2529ed223edfdac78951b3e.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160617/4ee6318edfc9d64ca430cbc195443d4a.jpg

 

I rigged up a way to check the alignment with 2 pieces of aluminum angle stock and bungee cords (we used to do this on the racecars when I worked on an SCCA Club team) so I could measure the toe in the front of the tire and at the back to compare the measurements. I also didn't want to affect the thrust angle and I needed to bring both sides in equally so I also took a measurement near the toe arms from the inside wheel lip to a point on each side near the pickup for the toe arms on the subframe. These measurements are not necessarily equal, mine were 1/16" different between sides. I wrote down all of these. My alignment rig may look crooked but the rear was on ramps so it was nearly level in relation to the surfaces that the tires were sitting on.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160617/641906dc2f0304b6e97bb54908a98430.jpg

 

The lockout kit fit perfectly, it is a quality kit. The inboard lockout bolt gets torqued to 88 ft/lbs (after the car is back on the ground) and the castle nut on the tie rod end gets torqued to 44 ft/lbs. I reused the stock cotter pin. The SPC toe arms are very nice, but the inboard bushing is rubber like stock, not a hard bushing, so I wouldn't use these on my Legacy GT where hard bushings are imperative for all out handling for track days. My Fozz is more of a Sport oriented family wagon.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160617/c157c632c7be0b1cc4aa0d06f79250ea.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160617/ef45846cad6d9b8a17b38a6e9167792e.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160617/8e9af2b92f98e63a191f65671dc2237d.jpg

 

Following the LCA install and alignment, my total toe out was 3/8" or about 1.2 degrees (3/16" and 0.6 degrees per side respectively). I brought each side in 1/8" (at the rim to subframe measurement) and it turned out perfectly, 1/16" total toe in which is less than 0.1 degrees total toe in.

 

Additionally, the rear tires had gotten very loud from the toe out, they were essentially scrubbing the ground as they turned. The tires are virtually silent now when rolling down the road at highway speeds.

Edited by GTEASER
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bbbbbbbut....what was wrong with the OE toe arms???

 

Edit...never mind...it is for the forester.

 

I have a slightly used set sitting around.

Edited by fredrik94087

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Hmmmm. What is wrong with the stock toe arms????

 

For one, the stock eccentric washers, which adjust the toe, can move, messing up your alignment. Brandon.mol had a lot of problems with his. I suspect many others do too, they just don't know it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So today I installed my BC Racing coilovers. It all went in without a hitch. So much easier to install preassembled coilovers rather then having to compress springs and doing it all myself like I did last time with the stock struts and Swift springs.

 

Anyhow, the new coilovers are an absolute dream! And are wife approved!

I raised the car back up a bit to give it more ground clearance. With the sagged out springs and wasted struts the car was way too low and scraped everything everywhere!

The kit came from BC Racing with 7kg/mm springs for the front and 6kg/mm springs for the rear. And its seems to be a nice solid, but not overly harsh ride. Defiantly stiffer than the Swift springs I took off. And with the easily adjustable dampers I can adjust all sorts of performance in or out. Its so nice! I think I'm going to like these a lot! I do think I need to drop the front end just ever so slightly more, but its so damn close now.

After the holiday I'll take the car in to get a proper alignment. With the car raised up some, they should be able to get it to within specs. Is there anything else I need to have them do to the coilovers that is different than a standard coils on struts sort of suspension?

 

I took a bunch of pictures and was going to post them up here, but I can't seem to do it. They are hosted on my Flickr account, but I'm not sure how to do that anymore. It's been a while and I've forgotten how to do that.

Edited by ChasWG
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Finally figured out the picture thing so here they are.

 

The new BC Racing coilovers

28038503236_d3eb3633cd_c.jpg

 

Before, 3.6R sitting on Swift Sport springs and factory struts

27995001691_0ebd2e9256_c.jpg

 

28072329165_337a8af00d_c.jpg

 

27994998231_edfcd6ac80_c.jpg

 

A comparison of the two different rear units

28072320025_58eefa75e1_c.jpg

 

Rear coilover installed

28038497056_3d7c02ba3e_c.jpg

 

Front installed, camber plate

27994997141_642a3f410e_c.jpg

 

After

28072317015_31272bb72e_c.jpg

 

27994989081_fe53839d4f_c.jpg

 

27994990731_40e31e81ce_c.jpg

 

I did lower the front just a touch more after the initial install.

27994986221_0fe7b6b62a_c.jpg

 

 

And today I got the alignment done. Its a nice mix of fun to drive, yet decent tire wear.

Though the alignment tech did suggest a set of new, rear, adjustable arms. I told him I would like to wait and see.

I'm still messing with the dampening to find a happy, every day, city driving, happy wife and cushy spot. I know where the mountain driving, hammering the corner spots are! There is a lot of range in these dampers that I haven't even tried yet! So far I'm liking the ride and getting used to not having to worry about bottoming out on everything.

Edited by ChasWG
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Tried a few searches, just ordered the Koni inserts. Looking for suggestions on top hats since I figured I should replace them since there is 80k on it.

 

Don't need anything performance, this isn't a GT, but if there is something better for a little more than stock, I'd like to know.

 

Thanks.

 

Moog are very good, and IIRC less than OEM, I'm just not sure of the part number. You probably don't need to replace your rears, just the front because it has the bearing that the steering rotates on.

 

Consider this link my response to your PM requesting helpful hints....

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4588093&postcount=4

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For anyone on the fence, if you just want something better without going crazy, the Konis are a 1000x times better than stock. Knocked out the front and rear today. It's one of those things that when you drive it after you're done you think to yourself why didn't I do this 5 years ago when I bought the car.

 

Even on stock 2011 springs, the ride is so much better.

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There were options 5 years ago. I was on RCE T2's back in December 2009, 2 months after taking delivery of my 2010 :lol:

 

I think there was at least one person on BC coilovers around the same time, but I think we were the first two with coilovers. 2008 WRX stuff bolted up (with some modifications), but it took a while longer before anyone released lowering springs for the 5th gens. H&R's springs were vaporware foreeevvvverrrr :lol:

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Yes, the Konis were available since they are 2008+ WRX fitment, just that no one had tried putting them on our cars until 2013.

 

But, one guy finally tried....

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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  • 2 months later...
Nope, it's missing a couple of bends that would be needed to clear either the manifold or the oil pan. I believe it's been confirmed that the 2.5i front sway bar is the same as the GT, and I'm pretty sure I remember someone having installed the '13-'14 2.5i 26mm FSB, but you'd better wait for GTEASER to get here and set me straight.
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