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5th Gen LGT - Performance Mods


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The purpose of this thread is to consolidate all technical posts related to the 5th Gen LGT - Performance Modifications.

 

Please help us maintain the stated purpose of this thread.

 

 

To start off, I wanted to post a topic of recent interest within the 5th Gen community.

 

Crawford Air/Oil Separator (Installation Reference)

 

Disclaimer:

Since a model specific AOS kit was not available from Crawford, for the 5th Gen LGT back in April 2012 when I did this install, I am offering up this information as an example of how I installed the Crawford AOS on my LGT. Hope you find it a useful reference. Duplicate at your own risk.

 

First off:

Is this something you will be doing yourself?

Where do you plan to mount the AOS?

If you haven't already studied up on the installation instructions from the Crawford site, it would be good to check out some of the various model instructions, to become familiar with how they are installed. This will help you understand some of the photo's of my 5th Gen LGT installation.

 

If you are going to try to replicate my install, I wouldn't recommend the Universal Kit, (even though Crawford may suggest that to you) I didn't like the mounts ... very generic looking. Of course, your choice though.

 

I used the AOS model: Air / Oil Separator V2 - 05-09 LGT OEM Turbo Location Kit, and also ordered the extension adapter mounting plate directly from Crawford. The only things I used out of the kit were the AOS and the "Y" adapter fitting for the crankcase vent & drain connections. Although some of the pre-cut hoses in the kit may fit the 5th Gen install, I decided to source all the hose, clamps and everything else needed to complete my installation.

 

The following photo's are not necessarily in the actual installation order, since at the time, I hadn't thought of posting up a installation thread.

 

Nevertheless, I hope it will be helpful to those going down a similar path. ;)

 

REVISION: 04/05/13

I have decided to modify the water jacket source supply/return lines on my AOS installation. After reviewing the fitment of the new charge pipe being developed by RacerX, and the actual function of the water jacket thru the AOS, I decided to make the change.

 

Added benefits:

(1) Maintain normal (OEM) water jacket coolant flow path thru the turbocharger.

(2) Free up additional space for charge pipe replacement.

(3) Provide adequate heated circulating flow thru AOS from a less critical water jacket path.

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Edited by BigBopper
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  • 2 weeks later...
Would you kindly explain what the benefit of an AOS is?

 

Stolen from the interwebs:

The purpose of the AOS is to remove this oil from the intake system to lessen the possibility of detonation which is the main cause of broken ring lands on the stock pistons. As you increase your HP, the amount of blow by passing through your breather system increases as well. This scenario also increases the need for our AOS.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2115537

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/180583-crawford-air-oil-separator-top-10-questions-answered.html

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This thread is created for the purpose of consolidating Performance Modifications, for the 5th Gen LGT platform, in one location for easy reference.

 

 

Mods:Please Sticky this thread and move post

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4308126&postcount=1

into this new sticky thread.

Thanks

 

BigBopper,

 

You have some custom air intake? Just looking at your pictures from the AOS install..

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I have finished the install of (Infamous') IP&T's Turbo Oil Supply Line Filter Kit on my '10 LGT w/BNR TD05H/20g. This kit was developed for the 4th Gens, so I had to change up a few things, from the standard kit, to adapt it to the 5th Gen turbo setup.

 

I used (2) two 16" oil lines and made it work, along with some stainless bolts and silicone covered straps.

 

Thought this might be helpful for anyone going down a similar path. ;)

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Turbo_OLFK8.jpg.da5c70aae2bf963c7ce7fbd9a2eb8b33.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Not really a performance mod, more of a maintenance mod, but thought I would put it here anyway. Thanks to Bopper and others who have done this mod in the past and mentioned it here on the forum, otherwise I am not sure I would have been aware enough do it, but glad I did. Thanks Guys!!

 

Fumoto F108 Oil Drain Valve.

 

Modified the threaded end with slots, 2-3 threads deep, to allow all the oil to drain out of the pan. It worked and I verified by letting the old oil drain for 2 hours, installing the new valve, and 2 minutes later opening the valve. A tiny bit of oil came out, so I know that the slots are going let all the oil out during a drain.

 

I used a pneumatic cut off grinder and put the valve in a vice, took my time to get them all as even as possible, and carefully cleaned up all the threads with a small file afterwards.

 

Note: If you do this, open the ball valve before grinding the slots to keep the grindings from getting on the ball part of the valve and possibly compromising the seal when opened. And obviously make sure all metal filing are removed from the piece before turning the valve closed.

 

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Edited by GTEASER
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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

A quick write-up of my recent experience installing the STi short throw shifter... The majority of the install can be found in the linked PDF I have attached, but there are a few details I found while doing the install that I thought were worth mentioning...

 

First of all, I recommend doing this project either on a lift, or with all 4 tires off the ground (either 4 jack stands, or 2 jack stands and 2 ramps, which is how I did it). The reason for this is because the shifter assembly is pretty close to the center of the car, so having everything up in the air will ensure you have enough room to work. It's probably possibly to do it with just the front in the air, but I'd recommend getting all 4 tires up.

 

Secondly, it is unnecessary to remove the exhaust pipes that you are working near. Obviously you should do this when the car has been sitting for awhile, otherwise you risk burning yourself on the pipes, but there's enough room to get to all the bolts and nuts without removing the pipe.

 

Next, if you're following the PDF (and you probably should), after step 10 there's a few pieces they left out. Your goal is to remove the cover cable assembly that bolts up to the car from underneath. In order to do this, you need to pull the gear select cable and the gear shift lever from the assembly. These are held into the assembly by way of some tight aluminum clips that gave me some problems in removal. You can see one of them (the other is identical) in the 3rd and 4th pictures I linked to. You have to pull the clips down (towards the ground) so that you can slide the cable/lever out of the assembly. Not too hard, but not described in the PDF.

 

Finally, when inside the cabin to remove the gear shift itself, the PDF mentions removing the console box (the plastic around the gear shift, the cupholders, the change holder, the seat warmers, and some of the plastic trim that faces the footwells of the drivers and passengers side. The 6th picture I linked has the locations of all the screws you need to remove circled in red (some are hidden under pieces of the trim, that you need to remove) that need to come out so you can get the gear shift out. There's also some great pics and instructions in this thread:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/need-help-removing-center-console-armrest-155444.html

 

Hopefully that will be helpful for any of you looking to do this install! In general it's a pretty easy job, probably took me about 2 hours, but I was taking my time and ran into a few tricky parts that I had to go research. Once you know what you're doing it can probably be done in about 1 hour.

 

If anyone has any questions, or if anything is unclear, feel free to drop me a PM and I'll try and help you out ASAP. Good luck!

MSA5T1004A298142.pdf

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Edited by pfoyle
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  • 6 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Hardrace have a new set of engine and transmission mounts for the 5G...

 

IMG_2574.JPG.c43e6d220ef902303c9e89dbe170e65e.JPG

 

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I haven't had a chance to try this kit yet, but at least one set is being installed soon and I will report back on how that worked out. Has to be easier than following in Big Bopper's footsteps! :eek:

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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^^Discussion moved to new thread.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hardrace-gen-5-engine-transmission-mounts-236375.html?t=236375

 

 

...more parts to add to the list :lol:. I found the parts (7751, 7737, and 7720) on the Hardrace AU site, but how can these sourced in the US? Also, the AU site says these are for AT use, but there shouldn't be any issue w/our manual LGTs over here right?

 

 

I spoke with a guy at buyhardrace.com and they can bring in anything you want.
Edited by GTEASER
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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

AVO Silicone Charge Pipe. Just in case anyone wants to go completely baller.

 

Found this while perusing the Australia Liberty Association forum.

 

http://www.avoturbo.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=287&osCsid=ddj05qge201lcd6cn6gtsfevg5

Edited by GTEASER
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  • 2 months later...
AVO Silicone Charge Pipe. Just in case anyone wants to go completely baller.

 

 

 

Does this AVO CP also relocate the BPV in order to accommodate the WRX BPV options like RacerX?

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Does this AVO CP also relocate the BPV in order to accommodate the WRX BPV options like RacerX?

From the pictures on the link, looks like it has the stock BPV location... Actually the text in the description confirms that. "It is designed to work with the OEM BOV as well, or any aftermarket BOV that fits in the stock location. "

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

OEM TURBO COOLANT LINES (for those in the salt belt)

 

Not really a performance mod, but should be saved for perpetuity and easy referencing. Thanks Captain Ned!!!

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5241759&postcount=19364

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  • 4 months later...

Since people keep quoting this to new GT (not NA) owners.... :lol:

 

 

Take your time man, do lots of research, and take more time, there's no rush. Its all about planning and purpose. I guarantee you'll change the top mod on your list the more you research.

 

You can do 10 mods that make the car more enjoyable for less than the cost of a cat back exhaust, which isnt necessary to make more power.

 

1. Perrin Shift Bushing

2. Perrin, Boomba or Kartboy Short Shift adapter.

3. Clutch Damper Delete

4. 22mm Whiteline RSB

5. Carbotech Panther (AX6) front pads

6. Perrin Steering Damper Lockdown

7. Goodridge Ss braided brake lines

8. Perrin Shifter Stop

9. Perrin Throttle Body Coupler

10. LED interior, license plate, etc bulbs.

Edited by GTEASER
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  • 1 month later...
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