adosdrummer Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 I do have a lc1 that I use to tune with, but I don't keep it always in the car.. I tune other people's car with it and modified it to plug into the cig lighter for power instead of installing it into the car since it gets moved around a lot. I know the stock wideband is pre turbo, If I install it after the turbo in the downpipe should I expect a little better accuracy? Will the computer play nice with the new location? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 From what I've seen on here, yes, that's a better location for it (on the downpipe, before the cat if you have one). I guess the stock pre-turbo location sees high exhaust pressure, which can throw off the accuracy of the wideband sensor. I assume that you deleted the UP cat if you had one? BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adosdrummer Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 No I have yet to do that. Perrin el and a grimspeed up pipe are on the way (: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brprs Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Im putting in a wideband myself..eventually. from what ive gathered its good to have it around 5-6 inches down the dp. Some say 8-10 inches though. It just depends on the tuner. They get burnt out relatively easy, so how far you put it down the pipe can be crucial to the life of the sensor. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stock-wideband-uselessi-not-quite-123586.html Hope this helps.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCwagon Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 The factory 02 sensor is a narrow band sensor. I have an aftermarket wb02 in a Cobb down-pipe since there is a bung for an o2 sensor. It is a little close to the turbo, but mine has survived without issue for several thousand miles. Bosch o2 sensors require they be powered up at all times or they will become damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Stock sensor is a wideband, not narrow. It's just not very useful as a wideband for a bunch of reasons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brprs Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Do you have to delete the factory one to run an after market one in the dp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 you can weld another bung in there if u want to run both simultaneously. BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brprs Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Ok, it wont cause any issues? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heiche Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 having the stock one in place and simply adding a wideband should not cause any issues. BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brprs Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Awesome, thanks man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCwagon Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 Stock sensor is a wideband, not narrow. It's just not very useful as a wideband for a bunch of reasons. Call it what you want, but my point is that : You do not want to rely on AFR readings (accesport) to determine your AFR's, especially at wide open throttle. Some of the reasons are 1) readings are not accurate and 2) range of readings is more NARROW than with an aftermarket Wbo2 sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 I do have a lc1 that I use to tune with, but I don't keep it always in the car.. I tune other people's car with it and modified it to plug into the cig lighter for power instead of installing it into the car since it gets moved around a lot. I know the stock wideband is pre turbo, If I install it after the turbo in the downpipe should I expect a little better accuracy? Will the computer play nice with the new location? Sorry to bump an 'old' thread.. But do you happen to have any pics of your cig lighter/temporary setup? I wired my LC1 up for temporary install with a cig lighter plug last night and wanted to compare/double check my connections before I plug it in. My aim is to use this LC-1 for data logging with ATR for my new tune. I had a bung welded in on top of my DP so both factory O2's are staying put and untouched and I don't want an interior guage. Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted October 27, 2013 Share Posted October 27, 2013 This is what I ended up at: Figured why not with the box. http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr126/mikabuc/20131026_210114_zps9958d2c5.jpg My wiring goes like this: 1) RED 12v SUPPLY wire on LC-1 to + blk/wht stripe wire on cig lighter adapter. 2) One side of the momentary push button and the red anode wire of the LED connected to the BLACK calibration wire of the LC-1. 3) Other 'ground' side of momentary push button and black cathode wire of the LED, along with the BLUE heater ground and WHITE system ground of the LC-1 go to the - solid blk wire on the cig lighter adapter. And that completes the circuit. ??? Because my brain is trying to tell me that the way I have wired now, wouldn't the LED complete the calibration wire circuit without pressing the button? I guess really it's just the LED anode wire that is throwing me off. http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr126/mikabuc/20131027_091404_zpsd97004fc.jpg I dug thru the search results but couldn't find anything directly relevant so wanted to post for future use. (Told you I overthink everything Mr. Sprank) Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 28, 2013 Share Posted October 28, 2013 Just follow the included instructions with the LC-1. It has been at least 2 years since I wired up an LC-1 (for stand alone use/logging). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 It works, it works! Well, that is to say that I got it programmed with the laptop, calibrated the heater, and did a free air calibration without any error lights at least turbo is all primed up and ready to be fired! Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Congrats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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