rodan Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 I'm planning a 1.8 swap, which will eventually get a turbo or supercharger... still haven't decided which. I'm almost finished with the chassis, then it will be time to start on the powertrain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul_Good Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Welcome to the "Had a legacy, now I have a Miata" club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saul_Good Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Nice! what are you plans with it? I just picked up a 2013 NC myself. Did you put a pic up of it somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 Head gasket kit and plugs came in today. Welcome to the "Had a legacy, now I have a Miata" club I still plan to keep the spec.B but I'll likely sell the 3000GT 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Parts came in I'll probably tinker some today with the real work to get the head off tomorrow 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Did you put a pic up of it somewhere? yes, but here it is. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=140837&d=1359857585 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 Got in a few hours of work today. Timing belt it's ready to come off as soon as I get the cams locked into place. after that I'll work on getting the head off. There is water in some cylinders and it appears to have blown a radiator house at some point because there is rusty coolant residue all over the engine. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Bait Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Good deal! I also have a miata (91') and love it! I'm in the process of piecing together an ls1 swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240_to_miata Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Good deal! I also have a miata (91') and love it! I'm in the process of piecing together an ls1 swap. Awesome. Let me know if you ever want a hand with that project!!! I am in middletown I'll have my miata back on the road in April. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Bait Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Awesome. Let me know if you ever want a hand with that project!!! I am in middletown I'll have my miata back on the road in April. Nice! So far I have the subframe and transmission mount. Trying to get into a new house right now with a 2 car garage then I will be going all out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Got in a few hours of work today. Timing belt it's ready to come off as soon as I get the cams locked into place. These work great: http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=5681&parentid=0&stocknumber=35-62000 If you can't wait to order them, two crescent wrenches over the hex casting on the cams can be C-clamped together to lock the cams. There's a pic on this walkthrough: http://www.miata.net/garage/timingbelt.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 On a personal note, I AutoX'd mine for the second time yesterday. This is a very informal, just for fun deal put on monthly by an outfit in Phoenix. No classes, just run. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMjIuNU_rOM]Local Motors AutoX 2-9-13 - YouTube[/ame] I was about .5 sec off FTD... pretty happy with that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 These work great: http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=5681&parentid=0&stocknumber=35-62000 If you can't wait to order them, two crescent wrenches over the hex casting on the cams can be C-clamped together to lock the cams. There's a pic on this walkthrough: http://www.miata.net/garage/timingbelt.html I wish I had found that on Monday when I was ordering parts. I was just planning on doing the crescent wrench trick to hold them in place. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 Well I got the head off and back on. Car runs, but something isn't right with #1. Plugs say that only #1 is rich the others are firing just fine. New compression tester for DOHC motors is on order and I also plan to test my injectors. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Just finished swapping in a Torsen diff, poly diff bushings and new wheel hubs/bearings/ARP wheel studs. About all that's left to do for the chassis is poly suspension bushings and sway bars. Then it'll be time to start on the powertrain... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 Nice I'm still trying to get mine to run. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bochinam Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Well I got the head off and back on. Car runs, but something isn't right with #1. Plugs say that only #1 is rich the others are firing just fine. New compression tester for DOHC motors is on order and I also plan to test my injectors. #1, 2 typically aren't "the problem" with these cars. It's the back half of the motor which runs hot (#4 in particular) due to sub optimal the coolant route. The motor was designed as a transverse mount with the thermostat located at what is now the back of the motor. Fix it with a simple reroute. How did the cylinder wall look? I had a RC injector stick on mine and it polished it to a mirror. Injector test come back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share Posted February 19, 2013 I'm actually looking at the FM reroute kit once I get the car running again. However in about 90% sure that the head and bottom end need to be rebuilt, so I'm now looking for a 1.8 motor. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Another option (which may be the same kit re-branded): http://949racing.com/miata-coolant-reroute-system.aspx Both 949 and FM are top flite outfits. I would definitely pursue a 1.8 over putting any money in a 1.6... much better ROI in the long run. My next major project is a 1.8 swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240_to_miata Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 shoot for a 99-00 1.8 if you can find one cheap. Much better head. I just got a call from my machine shop. my 99 head is ready for pickup Also I made my own reroute spacer/thermostat housing. You can use a GM coolant hose pretty easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 For forced induction, I've been reading that a 94-95 block with 99+ head is the way to go. VVT head is best for power if you've got the engine management to control it. I haven't decided yet if I want a running engine to bolt in, or if I want to buy and build before installing. Either way, I'll be running it NA for a while... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240_to_miata Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 94-95 is only the best becaus it has an oil port on the exhaust side so it's slightly easier to get an oil feed to the turbo. Either way all 1.8s bend rods past 225-250 rwhp. Ask me how I know lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 94-95 is only the best becaus it has an oil port on the exhaust side so it's slightly easier to get an oil feed to the turbo. Yup, that's why I said for forced induction. Just a convenience factor really. Either way all 1.8s bend rods past 225-250 rwhp. Ask me how I know lol. That's my main motivation to buy a builder... I'd like to make 275-300whp, and rods are required... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240_to_miata Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 And pistons at 300. I'm at about 240 rwhp and I have a fully built bottom, 99-00 head, 550cc injectors. Also anyone planning on tracking a miata or boosting it should upgrade to a billet oil pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 I just want any running motor at this point but the important piece is I'm in CA so the basic 1.8 swap I can slide through smog and no one will notice. Turbo isn't a real option for me since it would never pass visual in CA. If I can get the 96 1.8 near me for cheap then I can save for the 99-00 head later. Question for you guys....how difficult is it to rotate your motors with the spark plugs out? 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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