Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Cabin blower motor issue


Dujo

Recommended Posts

So, for a while, my cabin blower motor has been getting progressively louder. Recently, it seemed to give up the ghost, so I thought I'd replace it.

 

After popping in a new one, it doesn't function either, so it's not just the motor that's at issue.

 

Here are the symptoms: the hvac controls on the dash seem to function as normal. I can get all of the display modes for defrost, a/c, fan intensity, etc, etc. According to the hvac panel, all is as it should be. However, the blower motor doesn't turn and doesn't make any noise, regardless of the fan setting.

 

Something I did notice as I was playing with both the new and the old blower motor, is that if I have the wiring harness plugged in to either one of them and then turn the ignition on (either starting the car or even just turning to on position, without start), the motor will jump just a little bit and then quit spinning.

 

Seems like both motors are functional, but maybe there's a voltage issue of some kind.

 

Note: I do have a few extra accessories (gauges) plugged in to the fuse panel, but I'm not really seeing how that would cause a problem, but I just don't know enough to be sure.

 

Any ideas or suggestion of what to try? I do have a power probe III, so I might be able to measure the voltage coming out of the blower motor signal wire, though I don't have a clue how that would help me or what it is supposed to read.

 

2005 Legacy GT wagon with the integrated hvac/radio controls. I have also had some water coming into the cabin through the passenger side firewall grommet and water and wires don't mix, but all this random info isn't really pointed me to a direct source of the problem and fix.

 

Help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
  • I Donated Too
Start on passenger side... remove the plastic cover from under the glove box, you do not need to remove the glove box itself - just the cover that is over the fan motor itself - put the passenger seat all the way back and stick your head under and look up. The resister pack is accessible to the left of the motor towards the back, actually in the duct where it can be cooled with air. It is held in with two screws. If the motor doesn't run at all the resister pack is favorite but also check the actual motor connector, give it a good wiggle as they can play up too and that would be an easier fix, clean the contacts and reseat. If you bugger around with things and damage the relay (probably messing about with the resister pack with the motor disconnected? not sure why Dujo's was bad really but it was) - it's on the drivers side to the right of the fuse box - ALL the relays here are identical so you can swap them around to eliminate and isolate. The resister pack is around $40 and even less in some place. It is the same part in Subaru's Honda's and Toyota's - if you google the part number you find on your resister pack you will figure this out. Ask Dujo why I know so much about this...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

... Cause he helped track it down by loaning functional parts out of his LGT to help determine which were nonfunctional in mine. Listen to Sigma, he actually knows more about it than I do. By the way, I'm about 80% sure that mine went bad because I cut the passenger side firewall grommet to run gauge sender wires through and I was getting a ton of moisture and even standing water on the passenger floorboard when it rained. Lesson learned: you don't need to cut that grommet and you really shouldn't. You can go around it by pulling it out of the way.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thank you very much sigmafour and Dujo, I had the same problem as Dujo,

I could have recorded same video:)

transistor was the problem.

DIY was great help.

part was 70$ at dealership, could not find cheaper localy

Only question is my blower relay is OK, and Dujo had to replace it,

but according to his video, there was a signal on the motor (even for a short time)

means that relay should work?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fellas, I replaced the transistor and it did not fix the problem. Ended up taking to the dealer and it was the fan motor on mine so I have the transistor if anyone needs it because Subaru would not take the special order $70 part back. I will get it to someone for $50 + shipping whenever you need it.

 

Should have done the donor part thing with someone instead of just buying the special order stuff first. . .lesson learned.

 

Thanks again!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The video was made with both the resistor and relay out. There may have been a surge of juice in the line when the connection was made as I tripped the switch, but it still was not the correct signal. And my understanding was that neither fix worked without the other. Yours may be different though.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • I Donated Too
Alberto and I were surprised by the relay issue on Dujo's car at the time but there it was. We had various theory's involving Dujo poking around first LOL but there was no actual rhyme nor reason to that side of the problem.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And my aircon went out again on Fri. Same symptoms. Controls function as normal, no fan though. It was pouring down rain all day. Came back on Saturday after the sun came out though. I think my root problem really is moisture related. Gotta take another look at that grommet I cut.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • I Donated Too
Check the connector to the fan itself Dujo... It was also iffy on reassembly and I had to fiddle with that connector to make sure it was 100%. Moisture could definitely be a root cause.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use