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Walbro 255 LPH install DIY


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The stock fuel pump was dying on my '93 Legacy SS so I upgraded the stock fuel pump with a Walbro 255 LPH and could not be happier. I did quite a bit of research on http://bbs.legacycentral.org/index.php as well ask asking sqc151 here on this site. There are write ups and lots of information regarding the Walbro on bbslegacycentral and I would recommend any first gen owner to check it out. The amount of knowledge/information one can find there site is astonishing.

 

This DIY is helpful for any type of fuel pump replacement. It's the same process.

 

Warning: Replacing your fuel pump is dangerous. You can potentially blow you and/or your vehicle up. This guide is for informational purposes only.

 

To install your Walbro 255 it is a good idea to also order the install kit which will make it a plug and play affair. Order the Walbro GSS341-400-791. I bought mine on Amazon for about $100 shipped: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EPQM10/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00]Amazon.com: Walbro GSS341-400-791 With Install Kit Fuel Pumps: Automotive[/ame] It will come in a surprisingly small box.

 

Here are the contents (fuel pump, hose, hose clamps, pigtail, rubber spacer), as well as some useful tools. You can do without the long flathead screwdriver, the socket extension, and the linesman pliers

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Disconnect the fuel pump connector. Start your engine until it dies. I did this a few times to relieve as much pressure as I could from the fuel system. This is the same procedure you want to follow when you replace your fuel pump, injectors, or any part involved in the fuel system. If you don't you will get fuel sprayed all over the place which is dangerous for obvious reasons. I still had quite a bit of fuel that came out of the hoses so have a lot of rags and little catch cans ready (such as shallow salsa containers)

 

Disconnect the negative terminal of your battery. (Note: Second pic the cover looks clean. This pic was taken during the install after I cleaned it off.)

 

Next loosen the 10 or so 8mm bolts that hold the fuel pump assembly. This will relieve pressure in the fuel tank which will result in less fuel spraying out of the hoses. I didn't do this so I learned the hard way.

 

Undo the hose clamps on all of the fuel hoses. Do your not best to mangle them. Replacing them would be unpleasant. What worked for me was to use pliers and to twist them with light pressure back and forth while applying force away from the hard connections. Be patient and try not to lose your temper. I got a little pissed off during this process. I tried using my long screwdriver to help pry them off but it was futile.

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After all the fuel hoses are disconnected carefully pull the fuel pump assembly out. This is a bit tricky and will require you to rotate the assembly as you pull it out to allow the fuel float to come out. Just go slow and it will make perfect sense. Remember what you did as it will be the reverse process to get it back in.

 

Peer into the tank and check out the baffles. :)

 

Put the access cover back on while you swap out the pumps.

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Disconnect the pretty gold hose clamps that hold the stock fuel pump hoses to the stock assembly. Remove the fuel pump harness plug and the rubber spacer located at the bottom of the assembly.

 

Third pic is a comparison of the stock fuel pump next to the noticeably smaller Walbro. Note: There is a small toothed washer that holds the fuel filter sock to the stock pump. Remove this (you may need to pry it off) and do not lose it. Use it to attach the new fuel filter sock to the Walbro. Press it on. Sorry, no good pics of this. You can see it if you look very carefully.

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Install the Walbro. Cut the new fuel hose to length and install the hose clamps and the rubber spacer. Install the pigtail connector.

 

Installation is reversal of removal!

 

Enjoy your increased acceleration and performance! You are now ready for all your other upgrades! :cool:

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  • 3 months later...
you jinxed me.....lol.. last couple days my fuel pump has been acting up. so far i just pop the top cover off and smack the top of the sending unit with my lug wrench and its fixed.... lol...... anyways.. i may be in need of a pump soon.... question is... you think that pump would work for a NA engine? I dont wanna go out and get a junk pump, i want a good quality pump that will last. most of the parts store pumps only have a one year warranty. Advance has a bosch that states its lifetime warranty...
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Lots of guys have used Walbros on their n/a Leggys. Some have reported quicker off the line response. And for $100 shipped for the whole kit it's a good price. I personally don't know of any disadvantages for running one on an na engine. Maybe you'd run a little rich but idk. Definitely not necessary though and cheaper pumps are available. I'd put one in my n/a wagon anyday.

 

As far as the sending unit it looks like you just buy a new one with harness plug so it should be easy to install but I haven't had any experience with that. Partsgeek.com has them for about $78. Subaruparts.com has them as an assembly with fuel pump for $332!!! :eek:

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Hello mnstrmech;

I would think that the Walbro pump would be top of the line. Recently put in a Napa brand pump in a GM (customer supplied) and noticed that it had a USA made pump included and a very nice installation kit. They also carry the lifetime Bosch kit too. I recently pulled my pump (good) but the filter (sock) was plugged solid. I used my pressure gauge and had 36psi and 60psi with the return line pinched. Steven.

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i checked napa's site... they all carry a 1 year warranty, ALL their pumps..

of course confusing thing is supposedly their is a 1" and 2" pump for our cars, yet Bosch does'nt specify a size........ ill just wait for it to totally fail.....

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Excellent write up, Monkey! The fuel line depressurization process is a critical safety step and should not overlooked or skipped. Even for changing out your fuel filter (including d/c the fuel sending units - two for AWD - one under the left access port and one under the right port). And, if not previously mentioned, it should be performed on a COLD engine.
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  • 1 year later...

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