SBT Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 I wonder if mine has same problem ? My symptoms aren't quite the same. When car is first started and I try to turn the steering wheel, it kinda catches or hicccups, like the assist kicks in and goes out, kinda chatters a little like anti-lock brakes. Once I'm moving at any speed it's just fine. This sound much more like a worn or loose belt. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflystyle Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 theflystyle From the 2004 FSM FRONT SIDE BELT (Power Steering and Alternator Belt) Install a V belt ©, and tighten the slider bolt so as to obtain the specified belt tensionTighten the lock bolt (A)Tighten the slider bolt (B)Tightening torque - Lock bolt (A): 25 N⋅m (2.5 kgf-m, 18.1 ft-lb REAR SIDE BELT (AC Compressor Belt) Install the belt tensionerInstall a V belt, and tighten the slider bolt (B) so as to obtain the specified belt tensionTightening torque - Lock nut (A): 23 N⋅m (2.3 kgf-m, 17.0 ft-lb) INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT Replace the belts, if cracks, fraying or wear is foundIf using a belt tension gauge, remove the V-belt cover and reservoir tankCheck the V-belt tension and adjust it if necessary by changing the generator installing position or idler pulley installing position A Belt tension (with belt tension gauge) When installing new parts: 618 — 755 N (63 — 77 kgf, 139 — 170 lb)At inspection:490 — 640 N (50.0 — 65.3 kgf, 110.2 — 143.9 lb) B Belt tension (with belt tension gauge) When installing new parts: 740 — 880 N (75.5 — 89.7 kgf, 166 — 198 lb)At inspection: 350 — 450 N (35.7 — 45.9 kgf, 78.7 — 101.2 A Belt tension (without belt tension gauge) When installing new parts: 7 — 9 mm (0.276 — 0.354 in)At inspection: 9 — 11 mm (0.354 — 0.433 in) B Belt tension (without belt tension gauge) When installing new parts: 7.5 — 8.5 mm (0.295 — 0.335 in)At inspection: 9.0 — 10.0 mm (0.354 — 0.394 in) You sir are a saint and scholar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fflint_18 Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Looks like the pump for me. I wanted to flush and refill with new clean synthetic. Pulled off the belt and removed the return line. Spun the pump and nothing comes out. I then turned the wheel from lock to lock and did get some fluid so it is not a line blockage. So I'm guessing a bad pump. Thoughts?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Usually not that cold out here but it is winter. Been noticing this lately and have some residue arond the feed connector. Will get this on my list for next round of parts. Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 PN is still 34439FG000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nubie Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Gotta try this fix because the whine is annoying. Thanks op. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Failed on mine and pinched the oring. Need a new one, putthe old back in for now. Not making a mess next time and draining the system so I don't have ATF all over the place. Make sure your pulling the old black one and just slipping the new one on the small bung and seat. Mine was stuck inside the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCstunr Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Just following up. I posted in the first page of this thread. I installed the OEM oring. the old one came out looking like a rubber band and not a ring. Installed the new oring, and 10,000 miles later still no leaks, no noise, no steering related issues whatsoever. Everyone should do this as your first step in p/s pump troubleshooting. Currently at 160,000 miles on original pump! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roksax Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Excuse my ignorance, but where exactly does the O ring go? Does it go on the fitting that fits into the pump, or does it go inside the pump? There didn't seem to be an indentation where it would go on the fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Push it over the first nipple of the return fitting and return back into the pump. Least thats what I did with the old one after I pinched the new on doing it wrong. Correct old looks like a flat black oring and the new one is round orange silicone based material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nubie Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Excuse my ignorance, but where exactly does the O ring go? Does it go on the fitting that fits into the pump, or does it go inside the pump? There didn't seem to be an indentation where it would go on the fitting. I found this on this forum, to the ones that have done it, is this accurate? http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1589&pictureid=8128 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Yes but our inlet is black plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nubie Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Just to update, another success story thanks to OP. When I had been having noise and PS loss at anything under 40*, this morning we woke to -16* and wham, bam, thank you mam, no issues whatsoever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiveOn Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I had the same issues with my 05 WRX. It was doing it in the middle of summer though. I can attest that the ring also solved my trouble. I was skeptical but it did the trick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtlonergan Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Another success! Thanks. I waited all winter till we had some better weather up here in Canada eh! Now I have arms like Popeye! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abakja1 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 I replaced the o ring with OEM Subaru, bled system, and now swapping out the PS hoses with gates hoses. Saw little cracks in the ends if the hoses as worm gear clamps still produced bubbling in the PS reservoir. Only downside to gates hoses are that they are orange in color and very large. I work days so I can't go to the Subaru dept to pick up parts and the close Saturdays too. Hopefully replacing the hoses does the trick,..if not I'm loss out of words what to do next,,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 (edited) Push it over the first nipple of the return fitting and return back into the pump. Least thats what I did with the old one after I pinched the new on doing it wrong. Correct old looks like a flat black oring and the new one is round orange silicone based material. I failed at doing this. Now my steering is just screaming. I think I might have pinched the old one - I set in in then tried to push the nipple down. It was difficult and felt like it was binding. I also lost my oem black one - threw it somewhere into my engine bay. What are the symptoms of a pinched o ring? My reservoir is frothing like crazy. Edit I think I figured out the problem. I tore the new o ring in half and lost the old one. There was no seal formed. Hopefully I can pick up a new one tomorrow and that will fix the problems I caused. Edited August 18, 2014 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Yes I pinched mine. Just place the new one at the first step I believe and should be good. Luckily for me I didn't loose the old one. I had to fish it out of the pump. Gonna do it again while the motor is out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parad1mg Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Didn't have any steering issues, low reservoir fluid or noises but did this anyway a couple of months ago since the pump always looked a bit wet from oil. checked it again today and its bone dry on the outside. The steering is still heavy though not like our forester which is butter soft I always thought Subarus all have featherweight steering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 If the 2005+ legacy is similar to the 04 outback, I think I did this also wrong also. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/why-is-the-power-steering-making-noise-on-my-subaru-outback/ I loosened the metal cover thinking is was just random metal in they way. Got new o rings will attempt to fix it tomorrow. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 (edited) Need some advice: before I attempted this the car would occasionally make squealing noises at start up - now I can't turn the wheel. All stupid mistakes on my part. I jammed the "new" oring in, which destroyed it, starting the car up it was sucking in a lot of air and the fluid started overflowing from the tank. Which made me realize I had destroyed the oring when installing it. Replaced oring - fluid stays in nice and easy now. However there is tones of belt squeal when I attempt to turn the wheel still. I am guessing I shouldn't have removed this thing marked with the red circle http://i.imgur.com/kgLI6Jo.jpg?1 I got PS fluid on the belt - would that cause the squeal? Can I adjust the belt tension to make the squeal go away? Red arrow? Should I just take it to a mechanic? Edited August 20, 2014 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Just take the belt off and wash with a light dawn solution and put it back on. Let it completely dry before installing again. You removed the alternator pivot to get that cover off. Hope you relieved the tension first. As I've found out recently the alternator is on there pretty good. It's not just going to jump off... Course release the tension before removing this pivot bolt would be best. To purge the air you have in the system either lift the front wheels up and turn lock to lock several times with the motor running. I like Max suggestion and perform several figure eights in an empty parking lot. If it's bad you may want to pack some rags around the reservoir and keep the level low for a little bit. I freaked out one of my neighbors pulling maneuvers in a quiet 4 way intersection in my neighborhood. He looked perplexed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Just take the belt off and wash with a light dawn solution and put it back on. Let it completely dry before installing again. You removed the alternator pivot to get that cover off. Hope you relieved the tension first. As I've found out recently the alternator is on there pretty good. It's not just going to jump off... Course release the tension before removing this pivot bolt would be best. To purge the air you have in the system either lift the front wheels up and turn lock to lock several times with the motor running. I like Max suggestion and perform several figure eights in an empty parking lot. If it's bad you may want to pack some rags around the reservoir and keep the level low for a little bit. I freaked out one of my neighbors pulling maneuvers in a quiet 4 way intersection in my neighborhood. He looked perplexed. Thank you! I guess I relieved the tension by slowly undoing the alternator pivot bolt. So just follow the instructions for installing the PS belt and I should be good? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Yeah there should be a measurement provided of how much movement you get on one of the belt legs for the right tension. I need to look that up for myself as well. Too much and your going to waste the bearings in the pump or alternator. Not to mention premature wear on the belt. Too little and it will slip and make noise. Needs to be that just right zone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Here you go. Everything you need to know. Just a page back. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4694413&postcount=25 - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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