stenben Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 yea i talk about rear wheels and i promise to make a pics in the end of this week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenben Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 (edited) I solved this "problem" by putting those spacers and thus the rear wheels remain in the center of the fender,but my car i lifted only 1,18 inches (3 sm in europe) Edited December 30, 2013 by stenben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swcolegacyl Posted December 13, 2013 Author Share Posted December 13, 2013 (edited) Very cool, i'll have to study the pics a bit. Could you post a pic of the side view of the car showing the centered wheel? Also could you please tell me what the square tubing dimensions? I had to lower the rear sway bar as well with lift. I did it the exact same way you did. Edited December 13, 2013 by swcolegacyl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenben Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 (edited) https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/v/954479_769455343068066_1425387623_n.jpg?oh=73ba95f4f9f01bb158fad1ea0d2e87ab&oe=52ADABA9&__gda__=1387230664_5e2f16063d708fc6e466a12a224c3d19 here is the side view of the car showing the centered wheel. And i will show square tubing dimensions late Edited December 14, 2013 by stenben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenben Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 The square tubing dimensions must be same like spacers elements on the rear shock absorbers https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/v/1479620_769650426381891_937942410_n.jpg?oh=d9894b94ad45a18fa55785a7fc827f62&oe=52AE0538&__gda__=1387190292_d523b38636dc435c20c65d8f9043489a i hope to help you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swcolegacyl Posted December 14, 2013 Author Share Posted December 14, 2013 (edited) Wow, thank you stenben posting that drawing. super helpful! might get a set made up this week. Edited December 14, 2013 by swcolegacyl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenben Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 (edited) Edited January 2, 2014 by stenben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenben Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 (edited) Edited January 2, 2014 by stenben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenben Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 (edited) Edited January 2, 2014 by stenben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenben Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 (edited) Edited January 2, 2014 by stenben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenben Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 (edited) I'll make more pics in january Edited January 2, 2014 by stenben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenben Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 (edited) Edited January 2, 2014 by stenben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swcolegacyl Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) Hi stenben, Please re-post the images. Northern Colorado http://srvtelluride.dyndns.org/Subaru/northerncolorado.jpg Edited January 11, 2014 by swcolegacyl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boattlebot Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Another mod I have done was to add a switch inside that allows me to alter the drive-train power distribution. A single toggle switch (DPDT) (On/Off/On) that controls the Duty solenoid 'C' on the 4EAT sending 12 volts for FWD (100/0), stock voltage for AWD (80/20) or 0 volts (50/50) power split front/rear. any more info on the mod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swcolegacyl Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 (edited) Hi boattlebot, the mod is not that difficult to figure out. As far is i know the mid 90's AWD Legacy's have a fuse socket under the hood labeled "FWD." By installing a fuse, it puts the transmission into Front Wheel Drive. i use that circuit for the switch. Download the Zip file on the first page. It has everything i used to wire the switch. The switch DPDT (NO/OFF/ON) position 1 ON: Normal AWD mode position 2 OFF: Cuts power to the circuit. 4x4 mode position 3 ON: Acts as the fuse in the socket under the hood. FWD mode It works perfectly, you can feel the difference in the right conditions. Edited January 11, 2014 by swcolegacyl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boattlebot Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 sounds good to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natetru Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 ok, i replied earlier that i bought my 1st subaru and had to do head gaskets....that is complete and she is on the road.....so now questions. 1. if i put outback struts on for the 1.5 inches over my stock, do i have to do any other mods? 2. would you get struts off a 1998 at a pick a part for 25 a piece or just buy new? 3. thinking of doing goodyear duratracs after the lift...thoughts? thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swcolegacyl Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 (edited) Hi natetru, nice. How's she running? i highly recommend using a good oil in your engine. In fact everywhere, I use the highest grade lubricants i can find for my car. I've been using Amsoil in my cars for about the last 20 years. it's about $11.00 a quart, but it's well worth it. I running Amsoil 20w/50 year-round. With an Amsoil filter. 1: I put the on the Outback struts and 1" lift spacers on without having to make any changes. But you will need to get the car aligned afterword. (I did find out very quickly after that, when the body went up the angles on the half-shafts changed and the front CV joints started clicking like crazy. so i had to replace both front half-shafts with new CV's) 2: I got the struts from a salvage yard for about $50.00 a piece. springs and all. make sure the struts you get are not leaking and not rusted to death. 3: I did a quick check and i don't think you'll be able to use the goodyear duratracs on the Subaru. those are "Light Truck' tires. You might have to lift that Subaru a few more inches first. check out the Firestone Winterforce so far they have held up very well off-road and on. Edited January 11, 2014 by swcolegacyl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natetru Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 runs pretty darn well.... I will have to look at the struts when I can get to the pic-a-part. weather not cooperating right now. if they are in good condition I will get them complete for 25 a piece.I want to get the struts on and see what kind of clearance I get and then will narrow down the tire search but I cant see why I couldn't use them as long as I can get a suitable diameter-right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swcolegacyl Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 There a few problems you may run into: 1: I have already tried to put on larger tires on my car. And the problem is the inside of the tire rubs on the inner wheel well. So you won’t get a full turning radius. And my car has 1/2” wheel spacers. I think I’ll need about another 2” of clearance and a welder to put on larger tires. My car is at 10” of clearance now. 2: you will have to locate rims to fit the Subaru bolt pattern 5x100. Or figure out a way to adapt them. And find rims with the right off-set. 3: if/when you do get the big tires on you may wind up ripping apart the hubs, bearings, CVs. You will be adding quite a bit of resistance to the drive-train, that the Subaru was not designed for. Not saying that it won’t work. Just some things you go through when modding an old car. Do some research, see if anyone else has done it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natetru Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 not really looking to go much larger on the tire diameter or width....more looking for a more aggressive tread pattern....this is my first Subaru, and my first non-4wd vehicle in years. that being said I fully understand the stresses that larger tires put on drivetrain. I have been wheeling ifs Toyota trucks for the last 10 years.....so really, just looking for tread pattern over larger size..... uncharted waters for me here in subie-land so I will ask plenty of newbie questions.....thanks.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swcolegacyl Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 (edited) Hi stenben, Thanks for the plans for the rear blocks. Got them made-up and installed. They did push the rear wheels back about ¾” to 1”. Might go a little bigger, but they definitely made a difference. http://srvtelluride.dyndns.org/Subaru/RearBlocks1.jpg http://srvtelluride.dyndns.org/Subaru/RearBlocks2.jpg http://srvtelluride.dyndns.org/Subaru/RearBlocks3.jpg http://srvtelluride.dyndns.org/Subaru/RearBlocks6.jpg http://srvtelluride.dyndns.org/Subaru/RearBlocks4.jpg http://srvtelluride.dyndns.org/Subaru/RearBlocks5.jpg http://srvtelluride.dyndns.org/Subaru/RearWheelSpace..jpg Edited January 19, 2014 by swcolegacyl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stenben Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Nice job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1692 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Hi --thanks for the comment. Yes, they are wired to the blinker circuit on each side. EDIT> Just tested the side marker light full operation with the wires i used: > Side marker lights are ON with the running lights ON > And blink opposite the front blinker bulb with the turn signal and running lights ON > Side marker lights are OFF with the running lights OFF > And blink in sync with the front blinker bulb with the turn signal and running lights OFF by chance, it's the way i hoped they would work. But, I thought I'd have to use a double filament bulb to accomplish the same thing. Do you happen to remember exactly how you wired these? I'd love to do the same for my 96 Legacy (looks great on yours so having to copy your idea!) but don't want to go through trial and error if I can avoid it! And if you are ever in Colorado Springs, we will have to compare notes on everything you have done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swcolegacyl Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) Hey 1692, thanks for checking in. Check out the wiring pic on page 3 of this thread. You can see the wire colors: Red/Green are from the wiring harness, White/Orange go to the JDM headlight blinker and the black pair go to the side blinker. Both sides are the same but not sure of the colors on the passenger side. it's been awhile. And feel free to copy, this is the place for idea sharing. I’ve copied many of the mods I've made to my car from other people’s cars. I don't get out to Colorado Springs much, but if you ever is this neighborhood let me know. Edited January 19, 2014 by swcolegacyl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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