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Fuel sender issues


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Is it mostly the drivers side that starts making the gauge not work? I'm wondering should I buy the drivers side fuel sender for $80 or try cleaning it (already did passenger side) I have a 300+ mile trip in two weeks and I need a working gauge

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as i under stand it the gauge reads resistance from the 2 senders which are ''inline'' so if one sends higher or lower than actual it will throw off the gauge. i don't know which is more likely to fail or maybe both together.

 

but i have often wondered if you installed a resistor in place of the driver side sender, would the gauge show lower than actual or higher than actual? the point being by eliminating one of the senders would it be more or less accurate? and if you could make it more accurate, would you want it more accurate when full or when near empty? i think that's a no-brainer. who cares how accurate the gauge is when you just filled up.

 

just a thought... or two.

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Why not just use your trip meter? A lot of us have broken gauges and that is what we do. Replacing both gauges is what I would do but I would rather spend the $200 on something else.

 

It's $150 for both

 

as i under stand it the gauge reads resistance from the 2 senders which are ''inline'' so if one sends higher or lower than actual it will throw off the gauge. i don't know which is more likely to fail or maybe both together.

 

but i have often wondered if you installed a resistor in place of the driver side sender, would the gauge show lower than actual or higher than actual? the point being by eliminating one of the senders would it be more or less accurate? and if you could make it more accurate, would you want it more accurate when full or when near empty? i think that's a no-brainer. who cares how accurate the gauge is when you just filled up.

 

just a thought... or two.

 

Hmm not sure about this I forgot what it reads full vs empty.

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