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Built 5MT vs STi 6MT


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Built 5MT vs STi 6MT  

49 members have voted

  1. 1. Built 5MT vs STi 6MT

    • Built 5MT
      24
    • STi 6MT
      25


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This really gripes me, spending like $4000 to drop in a new motor to make great and healthy power and now my 90k mile grinding tranny is holding me back. just keep throwing more money at it and hope it stays together long enough to be considered "well that was worth it" which is never usually the feeling you get when something goes pop.

 

Extra-S will cure your grinding problems. There are also a couple other options for synchro-mesh, but I love the Extra-S. My '98 Outback has 325k miles and my 4th gear would grind at any RPM... Threw in some Extra-S and it shifts like a new trans.

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No it's not. Anyone who has even a basic understanding of performance knows that isn't true.

 

I said should...

 

1/4 track or road course= shorter gears

top end or high pulls= longer gears

 

But the OP reffering to road racing. Shorter gears would be the optimal choice if that is the route you are heading.

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I said should...

 

1/4 track or road course= shorter gears

top end or high pulls= longer gears

 

But the OP reffering to road racing. Shorter gears would be the optimal choice if that is the route you are heading.

 

Still no.

 

In the 1/4 mile, short gears means you are shifting a lot.

 

Short ratios are great for the dirt. 9/10 other situations, the longer ratios will be faster.

 

Take two identical STI's. One with the stock 6MT and the other with a built 5MT. As power level increases, the 5MT car will win out more and more. Less time shifting, more time accelerating.

 

Short ratio boxes FEEL faster, because they pull harder while in gear. But the constant shifting makes them slower overall.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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there are quite a few gearsets available for the 5mt, but from what i can tell, there are no high power 5th gears, only 1-4th, but I am probably wrong about this

 

This is the biggest issue with the 5MTs, IMO. I've seen a number of reports just on here about broken 5th gears. Haven't even looked on NASIOC. The 6MT just doesn't have that issue, AFAIK.

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Still no.

 

In the 1/4 mile, short gears means you are shifting a lot.

 

Short ratios are great for the dirt. 9/10 other situations, the longer ratios will be faster.

 

Take two identical STI's. One with the stock 6MT and the other with a built 5MT. As power level increases, the 5MT car will win out more and more. Less time shifting, more time accelerating.

 

Short ratio boxes FEEL faster, because they pull harder while in gear. But the constant shifting makes them slower overall.

 

I was about to disagree with you until I remembered we were talking trans gears and not rear end gears. *Face palm, stepping out*:lol:

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  • 2 months later...

I have a built "5MT" in that at some point I had the case cracked open, replaced all there was to replace to bring it back to OEM greatness and had a front LSD installed in there. It serves me very well; front LSD transformed the car. It suited me well because my horsepower goals (which did go up a year later) stop at the 16G turbo.

 

But to do it right, if you have the money and ambitious horsepower goals, you do the 6 speed STI swap.

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I'm at stock turbo e85 right now with transmission problems for the 3rd time. I also want a front Lsd so that makes a built 5spd around $6k. I can get a swap with a bbk for less. It's hard to decide for sure.
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I'm at stock turbo e85 right now with transmission problems for the 3rd time. I also want a front Lsd so that makes a built 5spd around $6k. I can get a swap with a bbk for less. It's hard to decide for sure.

 

How much do you spend on the tranny rebuild? And how often do you do it? The lack of bbk is not slowing you down, so I'd spend the money on a better transmission (or detune or drive smoother).

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The first time was a bad center diff that came apart and destroyed output shaft and bearings. All was replaced, yet all gears and synchros were fine. 30k later it started making the same noises, I sent it back to Andrewtech and they said the bearings they put in were bad from Subaru. So I replaced all of those in the rear side again. They checked out the rest of the tranny, everything was in spec still.

 

Now the transmission sounds like its on a dyno or something. Car in motion whirring not affected by gears. It leads me to think of the front diff. I have changed the fluid 4 times in 10k miles with the Andrewtech cocktail. ( after every long track day/4 autocross)

 

I am stock turbo e85 (320/370) so I know I'm above the power level the transmission should take. I use a stock 06-07 wrx single mass clutch.

 

I'm looking at a brake swap at the same time because my stock calipers have cracked seals and need to be rebuilt.

 

Andrewtech quoted me around $5k for a PAR gearset. I would want an Lsd at the same time so I'd be looking at over $6k for a built tranny. You all know what a swap costs so you see my dillema.

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The first time was a bad center diff that came apart and destroyed output shaft and bearings. All was replaced, yet all gears and synchros were fine. 30k later it started making the same noises, I sent it back to Andrewtech and they said the bearings they put in were bad from Subaru. So I replaced all of those in the rear side again. They checked out the rest of the tranny, everything was in spec still.

 

Now the transmission sounds like its on a dyno or something. Car in motion whirring not affected by gears. It leads me to think of the front diff. I have changed the fluid 4 times in 10k miles with the Andrewtech cocktail. ( after every long track day/4 autocross)

 

I am stock turbo e85 (320/370) so I know I'm above the power level the transmission should take. I use a stock 06-07 wrx single mass clutch.

 

I'm looking at a brake swap at the same time because my stock calipers have cracked seals and need to be rebuilt.

 

Andrewtech quoted me around $5k for a PAR gearset. I would want an Lsd at the same time so I'd be looking at over $6k for a built tranny. You all know what a swap costs so you see my dillema.

 

Sounds a lot like the 5MT center diff transfer driven gearset bearing (the output shaft) noises with respect to the whirring. Mine had the whining above 35mph and whirring when turning at parking lot speeds.

 

I believe that the bearings are just a maintenance part on the 5MT and should be regarded as something that just needs to be changed. I know that Subaru has pushed a few revisions in part numbers, so they may be a lot more durable now (I noted that the new bearing has more rollers than the old one).

 

6MT have the same issue, but it's not as common.

 

Your HP and torque numbers aren't really too high for the 5MT and I don't think your transmission is going to explode unless you're absolutely abusing it at the track.

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I want to abuse my transmission. Is a stock STi 6-speed going to hold up at over 400 whp?

 

Abuse how?

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Nicki Minaj style.

 

Sing poorly to it?

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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If I could find a 6spd swap for a steal that was in decent shape I'd likely go for it but I believe (as BAC has repeated over and over) that the 5spd is not only easier to drive, its better for a larger power/bigger turbo car in my case. More time on boost accelerating and less time shifting = moar fast. I want gears and front diff.
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What I meant was that the 5mt is easier to drive hard and stay on boost (not easier to drive), in my case: big turbo. The 5mt is also less work to drive as its less shifting but I really don't care about that as its not my DD.

 

The longer I can sit on boost, not shifting, the better.

 

EDIT: as soon as my turbo hits in 1st gear I have to shift otherwise I'm likely to smack the 7k rpm limit by not shifting fast enough.

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