taylormac1993 Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 So in case you haven't been stalking my posts here about my 98 Legacy Outback with the EJ25D, here's the condensed version of my story. I was driving on the highway and my car overheated like a MoFo. I towed it back, took the engine out and apart, and discovered the heads were warped and the head gaskets were shot. Now here's where I'm at. I'm ready to put the whole thing together and start it up, but there's rust in my cylinders and where the coolant goes into the block. What my friend told me to do is get as much surface rust off as I can (out of the cylinders) and then let the pistons scrape the rest off when I start it up. However, how do I get the rust out of the rest of the block? Some people suggested use WD-40, Rust Removing Spray, and even Brake Parts Cleaner to get the rust out, as long as I washed the chemicals out after a period of time. In order to do any of this though, I need to put my engine on a stand. I've already damaged one of the pulleys trying to clean the block, so I just need to figure out a way to get this motor on a traditional engine stand. TL;DR: Got a few questions. - How do I get rust off of my cylinder walls? - How do I get rust out of the rest of the block? - How do I mount an EJ25D to a traditional engine stand? - How do I prevent rust while the block is open? Thanks for all of your help in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 I've used wd40 a few times to help loosen surface rust off but I don't think i'd want in my engine o-o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 How did you damage the pulley? Do you not have an engine stand? Post up a picture of what it looks like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 Engine stands are adjustable. Use your transmission bolts to secure it. Prevent more rust by wiping some engine oil or assembly lube in the cylinders. A scotch brite pad might be useful to get some surface rust off and won't be to abrasive. A little bit of crap in the coolant passages wouldn't worry me too bad. Just flush it to get rid of the loose stuff. I have some minor surface rust on my 22T block cylinders too. Does anyone know how deep the pitting can be before machining the cylinders is necessary? I am wondering how much material will need to be removed before I have to get larger pistons. I'm trying to keep my 22T internals stock. Can you just get new piston rings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomistopheles Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 I used naval jelly and 0000 steel wool to remove the rust from my cylinder walls, then thoroughly cleaned with carb cleaner to remove any steel wool fibers and lubed with motor oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 How bad was the rust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomistopheles Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/1997%20OB/34c6042f.jpg I don't have a photo on hand of after I cleaned it up, just one in progress. I'm reassembling today, so I'll take a photo if I remember. http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/TurboThom/1997%20OB/afda2eb4.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 either get a small cylinder honing tool or a wonder ball. that will get the rust out of the cylinders without much chance of creating oblongs from scrubbing it by hand. probably wont matter too much tho, i doubt anyone would scrub the same place so much as to make an issue with the rings. to prevent this, a shop rag with oil in it over the block is what ive had luck with. my civic engine sat open like that for a couple months and got no rust while i was farting around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylormac1993 Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 I've used wd40 a few times to help loosen surface rust off but I don't think i'd want in my engine o-o Well I'm gonna throw some cheap oil in for the initial start up and do an oil change after like 30 minutes, so any wd-40 in the cylinders would get flushed. As for the rust in the coolant chambers, I'm gonna use rust remover and wash it out with water. Hopefully I can do it all same day so there's noe chance of rust coming back. How did you damage the pulley? Do you not have an engine stand? Post up a picture of what it looks like. Engine stands are adjustable. Use your transmission bolts to secure it. I threw the engine over on top of the pulley to clean the flywheel and stuff on that side. I have a regular engine stand, but I can't find four holes on the engine to put the bolts through. Do you mean use the four bolts that hold the tranny on? I might try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJay03 Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Yes use the 4 bolts that hold the trans on you will prob need a lot of washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 That 2nd cylinder wall pic actually looks good & if you remove a little more rust from those walls, you should be good to go. As for rust in the engine, that sounds shady but draining the oil & coolant after starting the engine & letting it run for a while should keep your engine in the clear (my 0.2 cents). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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