NINmh Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 I bought this car not running. No noise to indicate mechanical failure, but signs of headgasket failure. Ie: when you cranked it over, it sounded like it wanted to start but it never did. Then you hear a bubbling sound coming from the radiator. You take off the rad cap and there would be high pressure released that smelled like gas. There are no taggings that indicate that this is the limited model, but its hard to conclude from information available on the web as to if the limited became available in '98 or '97. The car has, what I can conclude, most of the options - leather, CD, power options.. is there a very specific way to tell? My initial conclusion was is that there is either a head gasket problem, piston ring problem, or cam timing alignment problem. All had a valid warrant to believe either of, if not all! Without doing a compression test, i started stripping down the engine. once I got off one head I noticed abundant water damage plus the exhaust manifolds were full of water. Getting the other head off revealed the exact same problem on both banks. One item to point out is that both center bottom head bolts had very little effort to loosen, leading me to believe this may be a factory issue that leads to premature failure of head gaskets? However I am looking into a direct replacement engine. I understand an 98 Impreza or Forrester's 2.5 L will work, as well as any 97 to 99 Legacy. I am staying away from the JDM 2.5 L just because of some wiring or emissions differences.. Is this the best option for me or would a different engine maybe more preferable that can and turbo? I've read about some people adding a turbo to the 25D engine..? Can't say I've read about their performance. Should I just stay stock? or explore other options?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alter_ Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 clearly it is time for another ej33 swap ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Do not add a turbo to the 25D without replacing the rods & pistons or it will pop. You can use a JDM 25D. Just swap over the intake, wiring harness, & heads from your current 25D so it has EGR. If you really want a touch of more power, just swap in a 251 or 253 block & put your heads, harness & intake on that. The compression will be up over stock. You may want to get those heads resurfaced/rebuilt though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINmh Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 Do not add a turbo to the 25D without replacing the rods & pistons or it will pop. You can use a JDM 25D. Just swap over the intake, wiring harness, & heads from your current 25D so it has EGR. If you really want a touch of more power, just swap in a 251 or 253 block & put your heads, harness & intake on that. The compression will be up over stock. You may want to get those heads resurfaced/rebuilt though. With the Heads on the 253, would that be essentially the 254? I do have access to a relatively cheap 253 out of a 2010 Impreza 2.5i Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Newer engines might have different crank/cam timing than our older EJs do so if you do take that block, make sure you use the 25D crank gear, crank sensor, & cam sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 The limited model has the "LIMITED" badging on both sides AND on the rear hatch. In addition, I have yet to see a limited that did not have the 5-spoke alloy wheels unless they were swapped after the fact. These might not be hard and fast rules though. I'm also fairly certain you couldn't get the premium sound system without it being a limited (which comes with the double-din head unit and the tweeters and subwoofer under the driver's seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 The Limited became available in 1998 but you might have an Outback that has a lot of custom options from the dealership. Limiteds usually say "Limited" on the passenger & driver doors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFB Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 If you register your car at http://www.mysubaru.com/ with your VIN it ought to tell you what you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 i had a 97 outback ''limited''. it was ''rio red'' with gray on the lower half. it also had gold pin stripping along the roof i think, i may be wrong, but it definitely had the word ''limited'' in gold near the rear roof mount on both sides of the car. it also had a power antenna, cd, maybe the weather band radio, gold 2-tone alloy wheels, and leather seats. it was a great car. i bought it with 98k miles and ''engine noise'' for 2200$. i i did the timing belt, drove it 45K miles and sold it for $2500 with ''piston slap''. the college student i sold it to drove it for a year and then got t-boned. the insurance company gave her $3400 for it. oh well........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINmh Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Without the labelling, I've determined that this must be the limited, by several VIN searches across the web which only 2 had indicated it as a limited, and the fact that it has the Weather Band Radio. I do believe I read that this radio was only available on the limited model.. If anyone wants to do a search by their own means, please go ahead : 4S3BG6854V7606472 The Subaru.com site did not recognize this, perhaps as it was sold in Canada? And the Subaru.ca website blows.. I'm leaning towards a 1998 JDM 2.5L from http://www.car-part.com. Low mileage (65k km / 40k miles) and only $700 ( plus $150-200 shipping), seems like a pretty good deal. If I am correct, a head gasket replacement is in order, or did they fix the issue by this time? I can assume if I do the gasket set, I may as well do the Timing Belt as well.. But I just change over the intake, heads, and wiring? I believe my left bank head is garbage now, had an issue with a bearing bolt and then the cam gouged the front journey due to trying to get the stripped bolt off.. I am intrigued on the 253 option with heads and belt gear changes. the 253 would be $500 with no delivery, but I'd have to get new heads.. Not too sure if I wanna do this much at the moment. I think I'd rather just get her going first, then work on tuning her, or moving onto the next Subie project! I think after the XV Crosstrek is out for a few years, I wanna pick one of those up used and twin turbo that sucker! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 I'm leaning towards a 1998 JDM 2.5L this is probably the best solution for keeping it a 2.5L DOHC. but you are goin g to have some work drilling the driver side head for the EGR pipe. with out it you will forever have a CEL. the other possibility is to install an EJ22. this will get the car back on the road cheaper and easier but based on your desire for ''more power'' i doubt it will be a good solution for you. i have done two of these and love it. the ej22 is more reliable and much more durable. and about 30 HP less powerful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NINmh Posted August 9, 2012 Author Share Posted August 9, 2012 I've scored a great price ($565 shipped) on a 2.5L out of a '98 forrester.. Research shows this is an exact match ( with exception to the timing belt tensioner pulley ). If anyone has an idea as to why I shouldn't, please let me know now!! I've looked over my car, and it looks like the pinstriping was taken off. It was a total loss rebuild before i bought it.. Makes sense.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 sounds like a winner. the tensioner changed in 98 and is a non-issue. replace the existing on the new engine with the same type ''new'' or use your existing tensioner AND the mounting plate / bracket (which is bolted to the block) and replace the idler pulley part with a new one. the old style seem to last longer and are cheaper. no need to replace the piston, unless it is bad or leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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