lilbrudder Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 Why would he subframe be out or a clutch replacement? Mike I suppose you mean why would the subframe be out for a clutch replacement? The factory way is to drop everything (motor and Trans) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 Inner tie rods or bearings. Mike Yeah, my money it's on the inner tie rods too, literally,I ordered them a couple days ago. If it's not that...my money will be on the bearings....then the strut....then a new car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 I suppose you mean why would the subframe be out for a clutch replacement? The factory way is to drop everything (motor and Trans) Wow, we've done literally a thousand clutches and never dropped he whole motor out the bottom of he car. Haaa. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.2971 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Yeah, my money it's on the inner tie rods too, literally,I ordered them a couple days ago. If it's not that...my money will be on the bearings....then the strut....then a new car. It could be internal to the strut, wouldn't be the first time we have seen that as well. The bearings can exhibit some very weird noises on these cars. We have seen where noises could only be detected in certain situations and a bearing replacement fixed it. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.2971 | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Any progress with the inner tie rods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted July 29, 2012 Author Share Posted July 29, 2012 Replaced inner tie rods, no fix. I believe I have it narrowed down to the steering rack or steering knuckle. I want to pull the rack and see if it's adjustable or rebuildable. I can feel some play in the input shaft (where the knuckle attaches). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted July 29, 2012 Share Posted July 29, 2012 Replaced inner tie rods, no fix. I believe I have it narrowed down to the steering rack or steering knuckle. I want to pull the rack and see if it's adjustable or rebuildable. I can feel some play in the input shaft (where the knuckle attaches). It is neither adjustable or rebuildable. It's more of a replacement item -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 real long shot.....checked trans and motor mounts ? symptoms don't point towards it...but the type of sound seems similar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 It is neither adjustable or rebuildable. It's more of a replacement item -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" I was afraid of that. What does the adjustment screw/spring do or adjust?(in the service manual) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 real long shot.....checked trans and motor mounts ? symptoms don't point towards it...but the type of sound seems similar Worth a shot, they look fine(no tears or obvious damage), but I'll look up the testing procedure... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 The wheel shouldn't wobble at all unless the wheel bearing is bad Sent from my LG-MS695 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 The wheel shouldn't wobble at all unless the wheel bearing is bad Sent from my LG-MS695 using Tapatalk 2 Yeah, thats kinda why I haven't replaced it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 ???? Sent from my LG-MS695 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 didn't know wheel was wabbling...if it wobbles replace the bearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05 LegacyGT Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 The wheel shouldn't wobble at all unless the wheel bearing is bad The wheel probably won't wobble even if the wheel bearing is bad. But he did say that the wheels didn't have any movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05 LegacyGT Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 It seems like you've already checked all of the common causes. At this point, I would agree that it's probably something to do with the steering rack. When you say steering knuckle, are you referring to the pinion gear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickTej22 Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 "By grabbing the 12 o'clock of the tire and rocking it in and out" found in the op. If he can do that, he needs a wheel bearing. Sent from my LG-MS695 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05 LegacyGT Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 He said it took all of his force to reproduce the sound. That much force could be moving something else in the front end causing the sound. If the wheel bearing is bad enough that it makes a knocking noise when rocking the tire, it would probably be making noise while driving as well other than just a knock over bumps. Also, he said the bearing was smooth, quiet, and had no play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 I lifted the car off the ground today and pushed/pulled on the wheels to feel for play and found nothing in any direction, I couldn't even get it to make the noise, also the wheel spins w/o grinding or harshness. This makes a bad bearing seem unlikely to me. New tought is inner tie rods or sterring rack....something. To clarify,i have not been able to get the wheel to move. I had been able to reproduce the noise when i was really rocking the wheel which was in turn rocking the whole car side to side... but no play noticed specifically in the wheel bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 It seems like you've already checked all of the common causes. At this point, I would agree that it's probably something to do with the steering rack. When you say steering knuckle, are you referring to the pinion gear? Knuckle above the input shaft, universal joint assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05 LegacyGT Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Do you have a lot of play in the steering or is it pretty tight? How loud is the clunking noise? I would think that if the u-joint was loose enough to cause a noise loud enough that you could easily hear it, you would have noticeable play in the steering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted July 30, 2012 Share Posted July 30, 2012 Replaced inner tie rods, no fix. Did you do the work yourself? If so, how long of a project was it? I would think that if the u-joint was loose enough to cause a noise loud enough that you could easily hear it, you would have noticeable play in the steering. 2nd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 I don't think there is alot of play in the steering, it feels tight, but then again I bought it used so it's hard to tell how it felt off the showroom floor. I would say the volume of the noise is pretty loud, everyone in the car can hear it. I had the u-joint out today, there is no play in the u-joints themself, but the bushing has some but not more than expected. I figured out today that you can adjust the weight of the steering by moving the point at where you clamp the u-joint assembly along the steering column shaft...If you like a heavy steering feel clamp the top end closer to the steering wheel( this may take a little leverage to get it how you like). Preliminarily it seems adjusting for heavier steering(more preload toward the rack from the upper u-joint clamp) decreases the frequency at which the noise appears. This makes me think more about the input shaft play mentinoed earlier or the u-joint assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted July 30, 2012 Author Share Posted July 30, 2012 Did you do the work yourself? If so, how long of a project was it? Yes, did it myself. It's not bad if you have the proper tools, took me maybe an hour each side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 If youhaven't done your bearings yet I would suggest that. We have fixed ALOT of issues on LGTs that one wouldn't think would be bearing related by replacing the bearings. -Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg%5Dhttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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