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Sounddampening Legacy 2007.


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Firewall, (4) door panels, (4) door cards, floor (interior), ceiling, trunk (floor, sides, rear, & lid) ...Yeah, assuming you're excluding the exterior of your vehicle, 167 sq/ft sounds about right.


Your question is answered.


Take a step back. Let me conclude a few things.


If you are not competing in Meca, Iasca, etc, 167 sq/ft of sound dampener is an overkill.


I understand you have not concluded any other acoustic treatments like CCF or MLV. If you are not aware of these products, please note.


I've treated a few cabins before. I would advise you to focus on the front doors & floors, & focus on the area around wherever your subwoofer driver will be placed. Those areas will cover 80% of what needs/should be dampened. If you have the money, time, & don't mind the extra weight, by all means, dampen the whole cabin. In my opinion, it's a bit of waste. Take that extra money & spend it on a processor, or upgrade your drivers


Helpful Link: http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi


Upon installing, make sure the area you are treating is clean. Use a heat gun if you have access. Wear gloves or your fingers will be cut up. -I know you won't listen, but after installation when your fingers kind of hurt, you can think of me:wub: & most importantly, take your time.


Just a quick note. Sound deadener may seep on the seams. I have tan cloth interior. As a precaution I taped all of my seams w/ flashing/heat tape. It's extremely sticky & has aluminum backing. You can get this at Lowes or the Home DepoT. Do NOT buy the cheap generic "aluminum duck tape" that they sell at wallyworld.


^Doors aren't really an issue, but when I was applying deadener to the floor of previous cabins, I would have shed tears if that butyl based rubber icky gooey stuff landed on my OEM carpet. Just a thought.




...& do not use Peel & seel

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I checked the sound deadener showdown site and

got a good clue about what your were pointing and

what i need to do.


Im not looking for a massive deadener for an 3000 watt

sound system,

My intensions of upgrade-ing my stereo is to get clean powerfull overall sound,

Thinking of a tweeter and bottom set in the front doors, 3or4way speakers in the rear doors and a small sub on the rearwindow thingy and a small 3 or 5 channel amp(depends on if im gpnna amp the while car or just the rear section)

Not m personal style to have face kicking bass so my car will jump of the road when i crank it up.:)


I am mainly looking for a good deadener to make my ride quieter and more comfortable since im driving alot. Im sure of that i will go with the Sound deadener showdown products, might be a bit expensivve since im i live in Iceland but it seems defenatly worth it.


Thank you for your reply,:)

If anyuone has some tips please feel free to give me advises,


Best regards from Iceland.

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Ha, if you're not building a "3000 watt" stereo, then why bother deading the whole vehicle:p


Before you opt for rear fill, I'd advise you to focus on your front stage. After all, that is where you'll be hearing 80% of your music.


Don't be fooled by companies that offer "more way" speakers. For example, Sony offers a "7-way coaxial." -Trash. The "more way" doesn't necessarily (or nearly ever, & I do mean ever) a driver will perform superior to another that has "less way."


^Yes, I know sound is perceived differently by everyone BUT I can gurantee you that 90% of listeners will prefer a conventional "2-way coaxial" over Sony's "7-way coaxial." However, if you want to split up drivers, then that's a whole new world.


Anyways, focus on rear fill last. If your budget allows, I would encourage you to look into a processor of some sort, especially considering your intentions on utilizing rear fill. Do a bit of phase, T/A studying, & you'll be in audio bliss. I can not stress enough the benefits of a processor. I highly doubt I will get my point across, but let me try. You see, more times than others, many people think they need to replace every single speaker in the cabin of their vehicle to get the most out of their audio system. They forget about a processor, & stick their money into drivers alone. STUPID! A simple front stage set up w/ a processor will sound a LOT better than a front & rear sound system w/ out a processor. Yes, I know that may be hard to believe, but it's so damn true. I really hope that sticks with you. I have heard OEM sound systems that were matched w/ a processor like an MS-8 that sounded BETTER than a sound system w/ upgraded drivers & no processor.


^You can think of it as a Stage 3 LGT w/out a tune VS a Stage 2 LGT w/ a tune.


If you are going to be going IB on the rear deck, then deaden the piss out of it! This is the exact reason I pulled out my ID 10" & threw it in the trunk. I believe the slot is 7" in diameter. If you are going IB, head w/ the largest subwoofer you can find. W/ IB, more cone area = better;) I ended up making a baffle & housing the driver underneath the rear deck. Yes, initially I went w/ an 8" driver, but it just couldn't dig down low enough for my personal taste.


I'd recommend placing the subwoofer in trunk, especially considering your experience. If you are concerned about trunk space, a fiberglass enclosure will suit perfectly.



Btw, "deadener" will not make your ride "quieter." It's just to treat resonance. "Quieter" means less road noise. Sound deadener's MLV & CCF will treat just that:)

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Thank you TehRicer.


My stocks blew out so im in need of some new speakers,

by deadining the car i want to get rid of road noise and raindrops and stuff like that, (make my ride more solid)


i am wondering about one thing.... what is MS-8? :p

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As far as treating the cabin of your vehicle w/ acoustic treatments, contact Don @ sounddeadenershowdown. His email link is within the page. There have been countless comparisons between Don & other products. Search.



Don't kid yourself, I don't pay MSRP/Retail either. That "little box" can be found for half the cost at either of these two links:







^Two highly regarded mobile audio forums. "CACO" is basically a huge buy/sell/trade forum. If you have Q's, please refer to Diyma. -Watch out for trolls. Ever since DIYMA was sold out, it has been ran by a bunch of clowns. It's actually quite similar to the dinks around here who think they know it all.


It's all up to you, OP. If you would like to head more in to depth, I will post options that will suit your desires.


That MS-8 is just one of many processor modules. Knowing your experience, I only recommended it because it does 85% of the tuning for you. The other 15% is basically you placing the Mic seat to seat. I believe there is a Sticky on .com that goes over various "audio" upgrades. The Sticky goes over the JL Cleansweep. It's just another processor. Very affordable & easy to use. -Probably why it's the ONLY processor that's on the page. There are a LOT more options btw.


My 2 cents. -I wasn't impressed by the Cleansweep. I would rather spend a few extra dollars for an MS-8.


I'm curious to see what route you'll take. Remember, w/e direction you head with, I would advise you to start w/ the source. ...& no, that does not exactly mean "Head Unit." It can also mean a dedicated processor:)

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Ricer - good info.. you seem to know your stuff. ;)


Now that I'm driving my Leggy more I'm considering some audio upgrades as well. I used to bus to work.. this noob is gonna need some help.

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Ricer - good info.. you seem to know your stuff. ;)


Now that I'm driving my Leggy more I'm considering some audio upgrades as well. I used to bus to work.. this noob is gonna need some help.



New Thread > Post away. I'll be there. The audio section on this forum is a bit lack. I can't wait to get my thread going.


Anyways, back to da OP

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