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5EAT Ask your Questions!?!


ClimberDHexMods

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  • 2 months later...
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I was having brutally harsh 2-4/3-4 upshift when chopping the throttle at 60mph from a WOT pull.

 

Previous owner had put a parts store engine oil filter where the genuine Subaru Tokyo-Roki AT fluid filter is supposed to go..

 

Seems to have taken care of the issue. Might be too good to be true tho.. kinda early to know for sure. Still needs a fluid and pan filter swap.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Hello, I have been trying to find a place to buy the hex mod 1 valve body for the automatic transmission of my 05 Lgt. I keep reading about it but cant find any place selling it. Please help!!!
There's a Russian guy on ebay selling modded valvebodys for the 5eat. Not sure how good they are but I think read a member buying from them. Other than that you can buy the RE5R05A HD-2 kit and follow hexmods walk through or get a shop to put it in.

 

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

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  • 1 month later...
Any difference in the 5EAT from 2006 to 2007? Is it plug-and-play, or close? I heard the valve body was improved, but can't find documentation other than the part number being different. My 2006 has failed and I'm considering a remanufactured transmission. (Also open to thoughts on reman vs rebuild, with primary consideration being reliability/longevity.)
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I dislike the 5EAT in my 2009. I wish I was rowing gears, be it 5 or 6. Can't at this point justify a swap though so continuing with the auto that shifts how it wants when it wants it shall be.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

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Does anyone know the proper relearning procedure for 5eat? I cleared memory 2 with a vag com using freessm.

 

I recall someone saying to shift through the gears in manual mode at around 12% throttle but at what rpm? Also how long should it take to relearn?

 

Car shifts fine when under a decent load but low load it's still clunking into gears.

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Any difference in the 5EAT from 2006 to 2007? Is it plug-and-play, or close? I heard the valve body was improved, but can't find documentation other than the part number being different. My 2006 has failed and I'm considering a remanufactured transmission. (Also open to thoughts on reman vs rebuild, with primary consideration being reliability/longevity.)

 

For posterity’s sake… here’s what a local Subie shop told me, and another Subie shop confirmed the same: “While the chassis' are similar from 06 and 07, the CANBUS system is almost entirely different, meaning swapping of equipment from 06 to 07, is nearly impossible to do correctly. Putting an 07 into your 06, along with SI drive would require changing the vehicle harness as well.”

 

So, going with an 06 Subaru reman 5EAT (and am told this is the last unit currently in stock in the country).

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Go here....https://prnt.sc/12q47lm

 

It is a screenshot of the FSM relearn procedure.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

No access to a lift and I'm using free ssm which doesn't walk through the steps as far as I can tell. Could have sworn I saw a different relearn procedure but can't seem to find it now.

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I have done a reset a few times to my 5EAT. I have just gotten in and driven normally for a bit. Not sure it's right or wrong and sometimes it lasts months, other times not as long. I believe I may be suffering from turbine speed sensor 2 failure (seems to be heat related) after a fair amount of reading here and elsewhere. I may upgrade the VB and swap the sensor out at the same time. Still getting the new shortock wound to stop bleeding.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Edited by whitexc
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been reading through posts here for a couple of years and can always find the answer to my problem with the plethora of information provided here. So thank you for that. Now I've come to a dead end with my car, and can't find anything that matches up quite the same. I'd like to make a new post but I'm a little lost on how to go about that. The issue is huge, horribly loud rattle, clacking noise while accelerating up to 25 mph, after that it runs perfectly fine. Aside from a small ticks once in awhile that I can't repeat. Same sound when on all 4 Jack's. Everything I've found here and on YouTube it looks like the center diff. I pulled out the planetary gear set, and was hoping to find ball bearings loose, teeth shredded, something. But it all looks perfectly fine. There is a clicking noise while I spin it with my hand tho. I can't quite figure out the best way to go about this now. If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd greatly appreciate it.

06 Subaru legacy GT 2.5 5eat

Thanks in advance.

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Half shaft/axle in the front? Have they ever been changed? Mileage?

 

Driveshaft/carrier bearing?

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

170k miles. Cv axles in the front. Just changed the front passenger side. Everything underneath looks perfectly fine. And drive fine except for the wild noise. With all 4 Jack's, the front passenger wheel does not spin. Turning left, turning right, low speed, high speed, it doesn't spin more than 1 revolution per hour. Changed the passanger axle, and still the same thing.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pretty sure the front diff went out in my 06. Started with a clunking noise while cruising. Initially thought inner cv joint. Now there is a nasty grinding noise with foot on the brake at a stop. Sound like front diff to you guys?

 

Will a 5eat from an 05 be compatible with the 06?

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I have a 05 limited.

Started with intermittent issues were the car shifted to a higher gear instead of 2. Also when this happend you can hear a loud clank noise from the back of the car.

sometimes i just turned the car off and it drived for a couple of days. Now it makes when you try to drive, i did added like 2 quarts of mobil 1 ATF oil since i changed the radiator lost a little fluid. Not sure if that has to do something.

Any inputs of how to sort things out? No local mechanic wants to check my car.

I do have mechanic knowledge but limited time.

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Do more ATF changes with the factory spec fluid. You were running low so hopefully not hurting internals much. But sounds like your already there... Sorry.

Takes about 4.5 quarts each pan drop.

More if you tip the car up on the passenger side while draining. Measure and refill... Then check per manual instructions.

 

Fluid changes every other engine oil change is the best way to keep the system clean and running proper.

 

247K on mine no rebuild.

 

Good luck.

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