5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

[RooTBeeR]

So much good info!

[quick4dr]

hexmods FTW! almost 40k on my F1 and shes flawless!

[discojon]

I'm still having a delayed upshift from 3 to 4 resulting in a hard drive line bang if I don't rev match. I never drove the car prior to completely rebuilding motor and doing f1 vb. Recently flushed transmission and changed oil. Now it feels like the 3-2 downshift comes on too early. Using atf-hp. 205k on 5eat, 60k on f1 vb

 

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[SFerrell]

I have an 05 LGT with a turbo-back and an Accessport. Mine bounces off the rev limiter if I hit it hard in first gear. It almost seems like the rpms climb too fast for the transmission to respond. Sometimes it bounces only once or twice. Other times it's more like 5-6 before it finally shifts. Is this being caused by a loss of traction? Is this something to be concerned about? Edited March 21, 2016 by SFerrell

[whitrzac]

It's a tune issue.

 

I had the same issue before tweaking the boost tables.

[snow05gtRI]

I'm still having a delayed upshift from 3 to 4 resulting in a hard drive line bang if I don't rev match. I never drove the car prior to completely rebuilding motor and doing f1 vb. Recently flushed transmission and changed oil. Now it feels like the 3-2 downshift comes on too early. Using atf-hp. 205k on 5eat, 60k on f1 vb

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

partial throttle or full throttle?

 

if partial throttle, you need to learn how to feather/get off the throttle when doing the 3-4 shift. I think it's trying to get more pressure out of the system than available due to load / RPM and results in a weird shift.

 

I've found that as soon as I hit the shift lever, lift off throttle slightly and the 3-4 shift goes smooth.

Edited March 22, 2016 by snow05gtRI
grammar

[ClimberDHexMods]

I'm still having a delayed upshift from 3 to 4 resulting in a hard drive line bang if I don't rev match. I never drove the car prior to completely rebuilding motor and doing f1 vb. Recently flushed transmission and changed oil. Now it feels like the 3-2 downshift comes on too early. Using atf-hp. 205k on 5eat, 60k on f1 vb

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

Let's talk over PM (just sent one), I'd like to warranty swap yours and see what's going on with it when I get it

 

Edit: Though if that 205k mileage is all on the original transmission without a trans rebuild, and the F1 was installed at 145k miles then I'm amazed you only have one annoying shift and one brewing undesirable shift. Well done on getting great mileage out of it. I'm not aware of a modified 5EAT going over 200k without some rough shifting somewhere in its operation. You would have to have a very well built transmission and tight temperature management to stick the 200k landing flawlessly.

 

Still, I'm open to the possibility that something could be going on with the valve body. I'm happy to work with you to figure out exactly what it is.

Edited March 22, 2016 by ClimberD@HexMods

[Chris GTO TT]

So how many miles do you typically see before the 5EAT requires a rebuild? We have 125k on ours with the aftermarket warranty about to run out. One of our concerns is the long term life of the transmission.

[discojon]

Let's talk over PM (just sent one), I'd like to warranty swap yours and see what's going on with it when I get it

 

Edit: Though if that 205k mileage is all on the original transmission without a trans rebuild, and the F1 was installed at 145k miles then I'm amazed you only have one annoying shift and one brewing undesirable shift. Well done on getting great mileage out of it. I'm not aware of a modified 5EAT going over 200k without some rough shifting somewhere in its operation. You would have to have a very well built transmission and tight temperature management to stick the 200k landing flawlessly.

 

Still, I'm open to the possibility that something could be going on with the valve body. I'm happy to work with you to figure out exactly what it is.

 

Thanks for the awesome support. EMail sent. The 205k is on original internals. I added the F1 at 140k ish a couple years ago. I haven't noticed any slippage surprisingly, even at (sigh) Stage 4 power levels for 60k miles.

 

One issue that did crop up yesterday was this. The Vent on top of the transmission was leaking. I noticed that it was loose/pulled askew and there was a ripped vent breather hose that was leaking some ATF. I don't ever remember damaging the nipple so not sure why it was loose. And i assume the leaking ATF is due to a slight overfill? I pressed the nipple back in and put a new vac line up to under the TMIC. I'm also going to check fluid levels tonight and drain a bit if it is too full. ( I recently drained and refilled with new and may have gotten a bit much in )

[discojon]

partial throttle or full throttle?

 

if partial throttle, you need to learn how to feather/get off the throttle when doing the 3-4 shift. I think it's trying to get more pressure out of the system than available due to load / RPM and results in a weird shift.

 

I've found that as soon as I hit the shift lever, lift off throttle slightly and the 3-4 shift goes smooth.

 

Full throttle shifts much smoother than part. a Full throttle 3>4 takes about 2 sec and is reasonably smooth. Part throttle 3>4 take anywhere from a couple to 5 seconds to complete the shift, resulting with the can banging into 4th violently if i don't rev match.

[jayrex]

 

You will almost certainly not need to go any deeper than reverse. Don't touch reverse or beneath it the forward clutch pack, as those do not get worn out (reverse for obvious reasons, forward for the non obvious reason that it's always locked up so it doesn't have any realistic way of wearing out).

 

 

So do I need to get 'past' the reverse and forward packs, just to get to the low coast clutch? Or are you saying I likely don't need to touch that one either? Obviously I'd love to take as little apart as possible, but I definitely don't want to waste my time opening it up again. The only time the trans slips is high revs in 3, 4, 5th.

 

Ref link:

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.co...g-pdf/5EAT.pdf

 

 

 

another delay... the last two clutch packs appear to be held in by 3 T45 torx bolts. One of these 3 bolts requires a long (2.5" +) T45 bit. So another small tool to buy...

There is nothing in the FSM about these last 2 clutch packs. As if there was never a thought one might want to get at them. So I'm without a manual, and just making it up as I go at this point.

 

 

If so do I need the Long T45 bit then?

 

I'm going to start a build thread once I get it opened up, and have some pics, so everyone can see the carnage.

I might even shoot some video for you guys too.

I'll edit a link to it here once I start that up. Doing the engine at the same time too.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jayrex-5eat-rebuild-251969.html

Edited April 19, 2016 by jayrex

[ClimberDHexMods]

So do I need to get 'past' the reverse and forward packs, just to get to the low coast clutch? Or are you saying I likely don't need to touch that one either? Obviously I'd love to take as little apart as possible, but I definitely don't want to waste my time opening it up again. The only time the trans slips is high revs in 3, 4, 5th.

 

Ref link:

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.co...g-pdf/5EAT.pdf

 

 

 

If so do I need the Long T45 bit then?

 

I'm going to start a build thread once I get it opened up, and have some pics, so everyone can see the carnage.

I might even shoot some video for you guys too.

I'll edit a link to it here once I start that up. Doing the engine at the same time too.

 

You can skip most torx bits. From memory, the nightmare one is the torx holding the front drive pinion shaft to the trans/bellhousing divider section. Just don't take that off at all if you can avoid it.

You don't need to touch the low coast brake. It's pointless and was removed altogether in 2008. You can inspect reverse if you want since it's not the end of the world to access it, but if you're certain it's fine then don't bother touching it at all. \

You will certainly find nice burning and overheating in some or all of:

Front brake

High Low Reverse clutch

Direct clutch

Input clutch

(all the above is strictly off of memory; the key thing is to open up every clutch pack until you get to reverse, and you'll then know where you stand.)

[Payback45]

I need to do a transmission fluid change and probably the front and rear diff. I have a 09 gt automatic. I'm not sure of the fluid type or how much for any of it.

 

Thanks

[jayrex]

I need to do a transmission fluid change and probably the front and rear diff. I have a 09 gt automatic. I'm not sure of the fluid type or how much for any of it.

 

Thanks

 

Little info for the diff:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/questions-5eat-diff-fluid-change-123391.html

 

Sorry, I can't find any good threads right now for the trans fluid, but you are going to do a partial replace of the trans fluid, ~8qts. 2 qts at a time. Drain it from the cooler hoses (drivers side - going into the bottom part of the radiator) Fill it back thru the Trans dipstick tube. Careful not to fill the front diff, similar dip stick on the other side, same location. It will say 'diff' on it if its the diff dip stick.

 

Do some more searching here and on the googlez. But that's the basic procedure you're looking for. A full flush is not advised and involves draining the trans pan (unnecessary, and more of a headache getting all the air out)

 

Its messy.

[SFerrell]

I need to do a transmission fluid change and probably the front and rear diff. I have a 09 gt automatic. I'm not sure of the fluid type or how much for any of it.

 

Thanks

 

 

I just use the Subaru stuff, Idemitsu ATF-HP. After all, the 5EAT was designed more or less around this fluid. Never had any issues with it. I would post an Ebay link, but I'm not sure of the forum rules on such and I don't want to dig to find out. 12 quarts for $64.20 on Ebay right now. You'll get about 3.5-4.5 quarts to drain out of the pan if you let it sit a few hours. I change mine every third oil change. I don't like transmission flushes. Heard too many stories of damaged shift solenoids and wiring from the pressure. I use Valvoline synthetic gear oil LSD compatible 75/90 in my front and rear differential. No noises or metal shavings on the drain plug magnets and I do beat on my car pretty hard.

[fishbone]

I need to do a transmission fluid change and probably the front and rear diff. I have a 09 gt automatic. I'm not sure of the fluid type or how much for any of it.

 

Thanks

 

Anything that says is compatible with Subaru ATF-HP spec.

[battelready]

So how many miles do you typically see before the 5EAT requires a rebuild? We have 125k on ours with the aftermarket warranty about to run out. One of our concerns is the long term life of the transmission.

 

235k on my original with VB mod for the past 30k miles. Still shifts fine .

[fishbone]

Very nice! The clutches can last a very very long time if the transmission is maintained. Change the fluid frequently, don't let it drop too low, don't drive like an asshole everywhere, and help it out with an trans cooler if the conditions call for it. Should serve a long time. I'm at 125K miles on mine, car hasn't been stock since around 40K miles. I'm not an asshole and I maintain it best I can.

[Chris GTO TT]

Well pretty sure the car hasn't been making the boost it should have been for sometime now, builds boost painfully slow, so should be putting less stress on the clutches lol.

[Outback2.5XT-05]

Hey Climber,

I have a question that's been asked about thousand times (but perhaps not recently).

 

Have you been able to develop an improved valve body or any kind of shift kit for the 07+ VDC cars? If not, are you still researching and do you have any kind of timeline for release?

[whitrzac]

Hey Climber,

I have a question that's been asked about thousand times (but perhaps not recently).

 

Have you been able to develop an improved valve body or any kind of shift kit for the 07+ VDC cars? If not, are you still researching and do you have any kind of timeline for release?

 

It was asked a month/2 ago.

 

It is not possible.

[rzgibbs]

Any timeline for getting this thread condensed into a FAQ? at >1000 it is becoming rather difficulty to assemble the information. Hmm maybe I should try to format it myself....

[ClimberDHexMods]

Hey Climber,

I have a question that's been asked about thousand times (but perhaps not recently).

 

Have you been able to develop an improved valve body or any kind of shift kit for the 07+ VDC cars? If not, are you still researching and do you have any kind of timeline for release?

 

For 2008-2009, I've put the project on the shelf for now, it's filed under someday maybe at the moment

 

Any timeline for getting this thread condensed into a FAQ? at >1000 it is becoming rather difficulty to assemble the information. Hmm maybe I should try to format it myself....

 

No timeline, only that it would coincide with the eventual launching of my website so that I do not have to manually process every order. Heading in that direction of making everything a little easier for people.

[jayrex]

5EAT Rebuild thread started. Lots of pics.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jayrex-5eat-rebuild-251969.html

 

While installing the diff bushings I found a broken gear on the intermediate shaft.

I could use some help sourcing a used replacement. Looks like they are $290 from Subaru new.

 

I did find out it is the same shaft for pretty much every 5AT trans subaru makes.

 

EDIT: Nevermind, found it here for $215. Credit to another thread. Apparently I'm not the first to have this issue.

https://subaruonlineparts.com/oemparts/33257AA060

 

Wish I could find a used one for $50 thou.

Edited April 17, 2016 by jayrex

[jayrex]

You don't need to touch the low coast brake. It's pointless and was removed altogether in 2008. You can inspect reverse if you want since it's not the end of the world to access it, but if you're certain it's fine then don't bother touching it at all. \

You will certainly find nice burning and overheating in some or all of:

Front brake

High Low Reverse clutch

Direct clutch

Input clutch

(all the above is strictly off of memory; the key thing is to open up every clutch pack until you get to reverse, and you'll then know where you stand.)

 

I finally opened up all the clutch packs (really not that hard - it all comes out in tidy little chunks).

 

Front Brake - Pretty good condition compared to some of the others, but you can see a little burning around the centers.

 

 

Input Clutch - Definitely the source of the majority of my problems. This one is by far the worst. It doesn't even have any 'tread' left on it. The surface was gritty and crumbling. I could probably replace just this pack and call the whole job done.

 

 

High/Low/(Rev?) - This one is not looking too good either, almost black. Many of the steels had these black marks on them, but they are almost perfectly smooth.

 

 

Direct Clutch - also mostly black. The one friction on the end(right side of pic) still has a little red left in it. I doubt that one was pulling its weight

 

 

Reverse - As Climber said, they are just find and don't need replacing.

 

 

Transfer clutches (in the rear extension) - no pics, but they looked good like the reverse clutches.

 

So the last 2 packs(Forward and Low Coast) seem much more 'burried'. They are in the back of the main trans housing. and I'm hoping I don't need to get in there, even for inspection. I think that is where all the bits start falling out.

 

So Climber, do you think I can gamble on the Forward pack as good? -based on what I have found so far?

 

Should I replace those steels?