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Oil Pan Removal


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22 hours ago, silverton said:

quarter inch 10 mil on a ball swivel makes it easy to get the four on the back

That's what I used to remove those bolts.

I'll pull the rusty pan tomorrow, the humidity breaks tonight, so the garage will be more comfortable to work in. Being so well insulated, the garage holds the heat in. The outside air temp will be better too. I have a portable AC I could put in the window, if I really wanted...just lazy. LOL

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Progress today, I have the old pan out.

I did "remove" the oil cooler first, (24mm deep socket) "I did remove the lower radiator hose too".

With the engine resting on the mounts, I pried the pan off the block, it was easier than I expected. I found a spot near the driver's side engine mount with a good space to pry. I used the 14" pry bar from the Harbor Fright set, the middle one. The pan was easy to move to a spot where the front of the pan was about 3-4" from the block. Then I jacked up the engine.  While jacking, the pan fell out, upside down, onto the 4 layers of cardboard. 

I used a plastic razor blades to clean off the block. I lowered the engine back on the mounts until I'm ready to install.

Hint, I hope most of you know to keep cardboard around from all the large items you buy. 

 

Here's photo's with two studs I just made from one long 6mmx100 bolt, ran the die over them, made sure nuts thread on easy. I'll remove these once the pan is installed. (upper left side and mid right side of block) in photo.

I did wipe the bottom of the windage tray before the pictures, but it really wasn't too bad, I use Amsoil 5w-40 European Classic doing 7-8000 mile oil changes. Engine has over 150,000 miles on it.

In the third photo, that is just surface rust from the heatshield on the OEM hose clamp for the oil cooler. The hose is flexable not dry.

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  • Like 4

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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On 8/10/2022 at 8:26 AM, Tehnation said:

Biggest thing is to loctite the bolts if you run a gasket. Can't stress that enough!

Got back from picking up the correct oil pan about 9:30. Took the car for a test drive at noon time.

I used the gasket, put a thin bead of black Permatex on the outer edge of the oil pan, set the gasket in place on the pan, (note, gasket only goes one way), lifted the pan up in place on one stud, and stuck a bolt in. All 14 bolts have new lock washers and loctite 242. 

Letting it cool now, then check coolant level, yes I burped the system. I left the under engine cover off, I'll install it in a few. Have cardboard under the car, just in case it dips oil off the frame. 

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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It's been a couple of hours, no dips on the clean cardboard under the car. There was a small amount of oil on the frame by the rear bolt for the under engine cover, I wiped that off and installed the cover. After the install, I figured I might as well lengthen that bolthole, so the cover sits flatter. Use an old air saw blade to cut the plastic hole longer.

Time to update my notebook of things done to the car.

I'd say the job was easier than I thought it was going to be. I've been picturing fighting to get the pan off and then back on. Not sure if I needed to drop the oil cooler, but that is a simple task. I also was able to clean the outside of the cooler while it was out. 

 

  • Like 4

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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