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At first I wasn't going to do the KillerB oil pick up & motor mount install because I heard it was a pain, but after reading this thread it doesn't sound too bad. Are the motor mounts doable if I jack up the engine & remove the pitch stop?
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At first I wasn't going to do the KillerB oil pick up & motor mount install because I heard it was a pain, but after reading this thread it doesn't sound too bad. Are the motor mounts doable if I jack up the engine & remove the pitch stop?

 

I'm glad I have impact tools. I wouldn't want to do the motor mounts without a impact gun. But my car lives in the northeast too.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Was thinking about the Killer B Oil Pick-Up Tube, Baffle, and Pan. Almost 7yrs. in the North East, my OEM oil pan is covered in rust blisters.

 

Mike

 

My oil pan actually looked pretty good for being almost 8 y/o here, late Jun 04.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 4 months later...
Good info,i need to replace the seal on my pan. I have cleaned off the area a few times to make sure this is where the leak is and it seems to be in the same place each time. 2 questions. First, where do you place the jack? In the link provided to the Killer Bee site it looked like it was right on the header. I have a regular floor jack and the jack with the car. any suggestions? Second, how far did you have to put it up for clearance? Thank you!
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I just did the killer b stuff I've been waiting to put on. It was actually super easy. All you need to do is remove afta maf hose, rad supports and hood prop holder, take out bottom bolt for pitch stop. Remove motor mount nuts (I had to take off my sway bar brackets to move it a tad). I have an engine hoist so I used that but it went up about 5 inches. Used my electric impact gun to remove all oil pan bolts. And a air impact for all the big stuff. Just reverse all the steps and your done.

 

Oil pickup torque 7 ft lbs

 

Oil pan bolts is 3 ft lbs

 

Motor mounts are 50 ft lbs

 

Pitch stop is 32 ft lbs iirc

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  • 6 months later...
I just did the killer b stuff I've been waiting to put on. It was actually super easy. ..................

 

No problem breaking the old sealant bond between the pan and the block?

 

From a Forester owner: "Using a block of wood held against the oil pan to protect it, I gave it a few wacks with a 5 pound lump hammer. This quickly popped the oil pan free of the sealant."

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f87/ultimate-oil-pickup-install-thread-55376/index2.html

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You mite have to remove the bottom fly wheel cover on the tranny if you have a MT. Had to do it for mine. So the front lip of the oil pan could clear the lip of the oil pump. Once you lift the motor up. Take the nuts of the motor mounts & spin them back on . Then you can set the motor back on the frame & get your lifting device out of the way. I used a rubber hammer to loosen the pan from the block.

 

Mike

 

 

 

Look a line 7 in killer-B install thread. http://killerbmotorsport.com/index_f...structions.htm

Edited by HAMMER DOWN

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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  • 2 months later...
So attempted this Sunday with a small hiccup. The motor mount nut was rusted and crumbled on on outer portion. I have a center portion of the nut firmly in place and stopping the mount from coming free. It looks like I will have to drop the exhaust, which it and the heat shields are rusted together, to get a grinder in there to cut the nut. Any other suggestions? I tried hammering on a socket to see if it would budge but I probably made it tighter. Thanks.
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So attempted this Sunday with a small hiccup. The motor mount nut was rusted and crumbled on on outer portion. I have a center portion of the nut firmly in place and stopping the mount from coming free. It looks like I will have to drop the exhaust, which it and the heat shields are rusted together, to get a grinder in there to cut the nut. Any other suggestions? I tried hammering on a socket to see if it would budge but I probably made it tighter. Thanks.

 

They make easy-out style tools for nuts. If you could find the right size to grab what's left there it might work. I just bought a set the other day:

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CCXVZ]Amazon.com: Irwin Industrial Tools 394001 Bolt-Grip Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5-Piece: Home Improvement[/ame]

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Thank you! I am normally skeptical of these "wonder products" but the reviews are good for it. I will post back my result.

 

I completely agree. I didn't end up using mine but I decided to keep it anyway. If it works for me once in a tight space that would otherwise cause me hours of agony, it will be worth it.

 

I picked mine up locally at an autozone. Make sure you spray it down with plenty of penetrating lube also.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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It looks like the deep-well set might actually be better in some of these "inside the cross-member/frame or long bolt length extractions.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-3094001-Bolt-Grip-5-Piece/dp/B001W02R0S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371601903&sr=8-2&keywords=irwin+nut+extractor]Irwin Industrial Tools 3094001 Bolt-Grip Deep Well Set, 5-Piece - Amazon.com[/ame]

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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It looks like the deep-well set might actually be better in some of these "inside the cross-member/frame or long bolt length extractions.

 

Irwin Industrial Tools 3094001 Bolt-Grip Deep Well Set, 5-Piece - Amazon.com

 

Yup, autozone had that set in stock as well. There's also an "expansion" set with some more sizes in standard depth.

 

I'm curious to see you results. I've never had much success with any extractor. Maybe user error :lol:

 

I think these stand a better chance of success than many bolt / screw extractors just based on the fact that there's more material to grab onto in most applications. Who knows though--I don't expect any big miracles, but if it helps me out once I'll be happy.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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The key to these, IME is being able to put pressure on them so they bite and hold. The more firmly you force them onto the piece you're trying to remove, the better they work.

 

I like to BH them on, then hold physical pressure against the driver so it doesn't work loose before the job is done.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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One thing that I found to be helpful when I removed my pan to put in the KillerBee pickup was a 10mm swivel socket (1/4" drive). Much more compact than a 10mm socket with swivel extension. Also, I unbolted the oil pickup from the block before completely dropping the pan out.

 

I used Permatex UltraGrey sealant, and at the reccomendation of Permatex tech, on re-installation with sealant in place I finger tightened all bolts and let sealant set up for about an hour. Then I torqued bolts in staggered pattern.

Edited by HarryD
wrong sealant reference
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  • 3 years later...

Im getting ready to do this myself. I had no idea what this required but i have a fat magnet on the bottom of my pan to hopefully catch any extra metal floating around from a blow turbo 1k miles ago. Aswell as the current gasket is leaking a little. But i found this video and i think it would help anyone attempting to do this:

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  • 5 years later...

My turn. Saw a few oil spots under the wagon today in the new garage. I could see oil dampness on the bottom of the oil pan. Moved some surface rust on the front of the pan about 1" up and the oil began to weep out faster.

I have the engine mounts loose, sprayed the dip stick tube joint and waiting to see if I can spin the tube to remove it.

Took about an hour or so for the dipstick tube to pop out, I use channel lock pliers to twist it and pry against the exhaust manifold. Was worried about crushing the tube, but I didn't.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Have the pan ready to come off, just ordered an oil pan from Advance Auto Parts, $76.00 It will be in tomorrow. Called my local dealership for the dipstick tube and oil cooler o-rings, they are in stock. The person that answered the phone in the Parts dept. is a friendly guy from there that left 7 years ago but is now back working there. He remembered me from the past. :) 

 

Notes, I removed the GS tmic and unbolted the pitch stop, removed the two small bolts holding the coolant line across the top of the radiator. Took the PS hose out of that clip on the side of the air filter box, also removed the hose off the air filter box.

 

I'm sure it's going to fun putting the bolts back in across the back of the oil pan...may have to try and get another 1/2" of lift on the motor. I have a piece of 4x4 on the floor jack under the tranny. I'll have to look at how much play there is on the hoses...

 

Just lowered the engine a bit so things aren't stressed overnight.

  • Thanks 1

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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