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Oil Pan Removal


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Make sure you have a good 6 point 14mm socket for the motor mount bolts. Yesterday I had to use a 1/2 impact gun to remove the two nuts. The 1/2 ratchet was not doing very well on breaking them loose even after the PB Blaster sat on them for a while.

 

The impact had no issue removing the nut's.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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The bottom of it got smashed in on an "excursion" over a tall curb :(

 

If you yank your pan from an impact and do not have a replacement reinforced oil pickup in hand to install when you do it you may kick yourself.

 

I believe my oil pan impact (empty compressed gas tank ejected from a moving vehicle next to me, hit another car and spun across the highway under my car at the most bizzare angle imagineable) was the hit that caused my harmonically stressed pickup to crack.

 

It did not break but it was only a matter of time. Never regretted replacing it when I replaced the pan. Pan has been off the LGT two times and the OBXT once. LGT = killerB pan/tray/pickup OBXT = KillerB pickup

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Here's a good question.

 

How to you remove the oil pan from the dip stick tube ?

 

I have my engine on the engine stand, the oil pan is loose, no more bolts in it but I still can't get the tube out of the pan.

 

I have not removed the cam gears so I can't slide the tube down behind them.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Here's a good question.

 

How to you remove the oil pan from the dip stick tube ?

 

I have my engine on the engine stand, the oil pan is loose, no more bolts in it but I still can't get the tube out of the pan.

 

I have not removed the cam gears so I can't slide the tube down behind them.

I removed and installed the dipstick tube with the engine still in while I was replacing the pan and pickup. I just used a cloth wrapped around the tube with visegrips lightly attached. Hammered up on the vise grips to detach tube from pan and then wiggle it up and out. Getting the tube back down to the pan was a bit harder but do-able and I used a little grease on the O-ring to help it slide in.

 

Edit--- Of course there is one bolt holding the dipstick tube in place. I was assuming this bolt is removed.

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I removed the oil pick up tube, which is fine, I will reuse it, remember mine is a early 05, bought it late Jun 04.

 

Once I could spin the pan around and after some tugging like a mofo, that sucker popped off.

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thanks for all the replies and advice everyone! I do indeed have another pickup coming, as I figured it might have gotten damaged.

 

With all the other work needed because of this whole thing, I'm still debating whether to take it in to the shop for the oil pan bit. Both left wheels are bent, the left front LCA w/ ball joint and all hardware, the LF hub / bearing, LF knuckle, and the crossmember support bracket, in addition to the pan and pickup. Obviously the under cover is pretty well beat after this was well.

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It did not break but it was only a matter of time. Never regretted replacing it when I replaced the pan. Pan has been off the LGT two times and the OBXT once. LGT = killerB pan/tray/pickup OBXT = KillerB pickup

 

Don't mean to threadjack, but is the killerB pan taller than stock? I am definitely thinking about the pickup and tray but I only want to do the pan if I don't lose ground clearance.

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This is not an oil pan hit. This is a major accident. This is what insurance is for.

 

Yes, yes it is.

 

When I started the thread, I didn't know the knuckle and hub were bad, and the crossmember support looked like it had just been scuffed. I took the car over to the local Subaru dealer, and the tech let me under the car on the lift and that's when I saw the additional damage. Really the crossmember support isn't that bad at all and could likely just stay on the car, but considering how inexpensive it is it may as well just get replaced to do the job "right".

 

I had already known about the wheels and the control arm, and was just going to fix those myself, since it really wasn't much more than the deductible. Obviously after my additional discoveries and the other stuff the dealer found made this a whole different ball game. I do have an adjuster coming out to look at the car, and I'm going to get a detailed estimate from the dealer to show him so that I don't get lowballed too badly.

 

I still plan on doing a good portion of the work myself because I want to, but I'm not sure I will be doing the oil pan on top of all the other work; we'll see. The cool thing is the insurance will just cut me a check directly, and let me deal with lining up the repairs, so I will have the flexibility to do it the way I want.

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I'm just sorry that you had to take a hit to your carfax and insurance.

 

^yeah that's true. At least though, you'll be able to explain what you fixed if you ever sell your car since you are getting involved in the repairs. Good on ya.

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I'm just sorry that you had to take a hit to your carfax and insurance.

 

Carfax, yeah that's kinda uncool but what can ya do? Maybe I'll get lucky and will be classified as minor, or maybe not get reported at all :hide:. Regardless I'll have the receipts to show what was actually done, so that should help.

 

I haven't had a claim on insurance in over five years, so I doubt it'll change much (if at all). At least that's what I'm hoping!

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