Valve cover gasket replacement!

[Max Capacity]

Why would head gaskets be less of an issue for turbos?

 

Just saying what I've noticed from being on this site since 2004. Must be something to do with the factory MAP ? I have no idea.

[Max Capacity]

Glad I found this thread. Just finished reading it all.

 

I am having basically all the same symptoms listed (leaking around the the VCs, oil dripping on the uppipe, which has caused it to crack and leak in the Grimmspeed flex, smoking due to previous), But I am also throwing the misfire cylinder #3 (P0303) code. Chance that I'm just lucky and having to different annoying problems, or might it be a headgasket issue?

 

Also looks like my water pump might be leaking after 64k miles on the Gates one I had installed.

 

Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated.

 

 

I'd be interested to hear if #3 plug comes out dry when you remove it. You can remove the air filter box and its pretty easy to get to.

 

Hint, don't remove the coil wire from the coil, you can remove the bolt holding the coil on, rotate the coil pack and wire little and it will come off the plug.

 

#3 coil wire connector will break from all the heat it has seen.

 

Check the DIY for spark plugs.

 

So you got 60,000 out of your Gates water pump...mine lasted 20,000 miles before it began to drip out the weep hole. Onto the exhaust crossover pipe.

[xt2005bonbon]

Maybe your coil pack is failing. Just swap it with coil #1 and see if the misfire follows.

[Charlie Tango]

I'd be interested to hear if #3 plug comes out dry when you remove it. You can remove the air filter box and its pretty easy to get to.

 

Hint, don't remove the coil wire from the coil, you can remove the bolt holding the coil on, rotate the coil pack and wire little and it will come off the plug.

 

#3 coil wire connector will break from all the heat it has seen.

 

Check the DIY for spark plugs.

 

So you got 60,000 out of your Gates water pump...mine lasted 20,000 miles before it began to drip out the weep hole. Onto the exhaust crossover pipe.

 

Good stuff! Thank you. I need to just swap out the coils, like xt2005bonbon has said, and track down the problem. Either that or injectors failure. I've just been putting it off cuz I hate removing coil to do plugs on these cars. Plugs now only have about 20k on them, so I don't think I'll change them if/when I do VC gaskets. You think it might have oil on #3 paired w the misfires?

 

Also, what did you do about your water pump? Is it a PITA to change? Just replace w an OEM pump?

Edited April 29, 2020 by Charlie Tango

[Max Capacity]

OEM water pump went back in.

 

At 60,000 miles your over half way to the next timing belt change...I think I might roll the dice and replace the belt while the repair shop is replacing the water pump. You could leave the rollers and tensioner there and change them next time in 100,000 miles.

 

The smart person would say, bite the bullet and do a timing belt job now and feel safe for the next 100,000 miles. Depends on how deep your pockets are.

 

Once you get the air filter box out of the way, not a big job, #3 plug is easy to get to, same on the other side once the battery is out. Oh you have a 07, air pump...I think that tube comes off to give more room on that side. I haven't done that job on my 09, I pay the man.

[Charlie Tango]

I was considering that... while the cover is off and everything. Just don't want the Subi gods to cast doubt on my decisions if I don't replace the tensioners and rollers if I don't replace them now.

 

Gunna swap #3 and #1 this wknd and see if I can get the misfire code on #1.

 

I also have a meeting w a Subaru specialist on Monday to talk about long term goals and do some diagnostics. I'll update this thread with results of both for future reference.

[xt2005bonbon]

You can always quickly remove the rollers, spin them by hand and listen. If they are really quiet, then you're OK. Pay close attention to the smaller idler pulley though, next to the tensioner. And check if the tensioner has any leak.

[NORULZleggy]

Like max said, depends on your pockets. When I was getting cylinder 3 code, I said screw it and bought all four (Intermotor) coil packs from Rockauto. Car ran like a stripe ape, and I never had a problem lol.

 

Now that you mentioned it, damn I didn't get an oem water pump, might have to call the shop and ave them throw one on while they build it.

[Charlie Tango]

You can always quickly remove the rollers, spin them by hand and listen. If they are really quiet, then you're OK. Pay close attention to the smaller idler pulley though, next to the tensioner. And check if the tensioner has any leak.

Thanks for this info, sounds like you're speaking from experience.

 

Like max said, depends on your pockets. When I was getting cylinder 3 code, I said screw it and bought all four (Intermotor) coil packs from Rockauto. Car ran like a stripe ape, and I never had a problem lol.

 

Now that you mentioned it, damn I didn't get an oem water pump, might have to call the shop and ave them throw one on while they build it.

 

I thought about doing the same, but I've read where it could also be an injector. With deeper pockets, I would just replace everything. With the misfire fix w one coil pack, curious if doing them all would make a difference in the way the car ran. Meaning, I wonder if bc of the miles on the packs, they are each minorly symptomatic and replacing them would make her really purrrrrrrrrrr..?

[Max Capacity]

Thanks for this info, sounds like you're speaking from experience.

 

 

 

I thought about doing the same, but I've read where it could also be an injector. With deeper pockets, I would just replace everything. With the misfire fix w one coil pack, curious if doing them all would make a difference in the way the car ran. Meaning, I wonder if bc of the miles on the packs, they are each minorly symptomatic and replacing them would make her really purrrrrrrrrrr..?

 

FWIW, I'm at 291,000 miles on the original coil packs that came in the car. She still runs pretty smooth and is responsive to throttle input.

[Febreze Mee]

That is so wild! I'll be doing the job soon myself.

[waltzy44]

Hey guys, new here and had a question.

 

Recently did the passenger side valve cover on my brother's 06 GT, and once we were done started it up to a surprising amount of smoke coming from the passenger side.

 

Very white smoke, definitely from burning oil. Looked under the car, no sign of oil at all, assumed it could've been from oil that came out when we took the old cover off, not expecting for that much to come out and wasn't ready for it.

 

Now after reading through this thread (Didn't read into it before, brother assumed he knew what he was doing), and we definitely did not change the half-moon seals OR use RTV putting it back on.

 

Looking through other replies, if this is the case, shouldn't oil be pissing out of the valve cover as-is? Or is it possible that the half-moon seals stayed in place and there is just a slow leak and/or that it is just spilled oil on the exhaust?

 

Either way, going to be ordering the seals and re-doing the valve cover, just wondering if it's safe to drive in the mean-time since no visible oil leak on the ground? Is there a way to check if it's just oil on the exhaust burning off, other than just letting it burn and seeing if it stops?

[Max Capacity]

You need to get under there with a good flash light and see what's happening when the engines running.

 

Does the smoke smell sweet ? that could be coolant.

[waltzy44]

It doesn’t smell sweet at all, smells almost like plastic, which I’ve heard synthetic oil can smell like.

 

Also a side-note, if only smokes once actually driving and getting to temp. Sitting at idle for ~10 minutes didn’t produce any smoke

[Charlie Tango]

I'd be interested to hear if #3 plug comes out dry when you remove it.

 

Had some oil on the threads, but nothing major.

 

Also, to update, got the misfire on #1 and ordering and replacing the coil pack for (hopefully) the solution and to get the juuice back.

Edited May 4, 2020 by Charlie Tango

[Charlie Tango]

Quiet update I promised from pg. #9

 

Had a Subaru specialty shop do my valve cover gaskets. He used Toyota Seal Packing (FIPG) for the gasket, and it has been working great.

 

Also had them do an oil analysis that came back completely clear at 179k miles, and a compression test. Everything came back amazing! So, if you get someone else to do it, cheaper option would be this while they're already in there.

 

Lastly, still having the coolant leak from the pump on the drivers side near where the oil dipstick goes in. Waiting to hear back from them again for a water pump and possibly belt replacement.

 

Peace!

[Max Capacity]

Quiet update I promised from pg. #9

 

Had a Subaru specialty shop do my valve cover gaskets. He used Toyota Seal Packing (FIPG) for the gasket, and it has been working great.

 

Also had them do an oil analysis that came back completely clear at 179k miles, and a compression test. Everything came back amazing! So, if you get someone else to do it, cheaper option would be this while they're already in there.

 

Lastly, still having the coolant leak from the pump on the drivers side near where the oil dipstick goes in. Waiting to hear back from them again for a water pump and possibly belt replacement.

 

Peace!

 

While the belt is off for the pump replacement, might as well have a Aisin timing belt kit installed.

 

OEM thermostat and water pump.

 

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&sxsrf=ALeKk038paNkwLTSQPEfdc_t-CkrT2Gk-Q%3A1598375500730&ei=TEZFX6T8K-yOggfFnobACg&q=aisin+tkf-004&oq=aisin+timing+belt+kit+subaru&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQARgFMgQIABBHMgQIABBHMgQIABBHMgQIABBHMgQIABBHMgQIABBHMgQIABBHMgQIABBHUABYAGCFd2gAcAF4AIABAIgBAJIBAJgBAKoBB2d3cy13aXrAAQE&sclient=psy-ab

[blindguy74]

I finally did this..it's seriously been over a year and a half of a little smoking upon start up on passenger side here and there.

Cars been down 11 days but that's because I have a back up and had the time..and work/schedule..family..lack of parts etc...

I ended up ordering plugs off Amazon after the stealership sold me NA ones...they were $51 from the dealership..the correct NGK from Amazon primer were $44.

I needed the bigger hose that connects to the valve cover after I cut it off also and the stealership didn't have that either...it was like $45ish off eBay from a subaru parts house.

I hope it's fixed...hopefully firing it up later tonight or tomorrow..

I learned a lot and am glad for all the write ups and youtube videos etc.

[apexi]

I'd imagine the turbos are similar to my non-turbo in this regard. Try to brush and blow off any sand or other contaminates that may be sitting on top of the gasket before you pull the old valve cover off, to minimize the amount of crud that can fall into the head.

[LegacyOBS]

If you have a jack stand, it is easier to do it from the bottom. Counting the Air-Intake to be removed, and igition coil (if you are due for spark plug replacement, replace them while you are working at it.

 

Remembered to mark the hoses, I remembered there should be two hoses connected to the valve cover.

[ohno06gt]

Sorry for bringing back such an old thread but I'm going to tackle this project once the parts arrive.  Passenger side is leaking onto my up pipe causing some smoke.   Still debating if I'm going to jack up the motor or not.  Does the pitch stop have to be disconnected to do so?  Also where is the safest place to raise the motor from? 

[Tehnation]

pitch stop should be unbolted if you want to raise the motor. Get a piece of wood, like a 4x2, and raise the engine from the oil pan. Safest place would be to use a engine hoist and pull it up from the top, next best is probably oil pan with a block of wood. Actually you can jack it up from the tranny as well, that would probably be better than oil pan. 

[ohno06gt]

Thanks man.  It definitely looks tight in there so will probably end up raising it.   

Still trying to figure out which sealant to use.   Between ultra black, ultra grey and right stuff.  Everyone seems to have different opinions on which is best suited for the job. 

[Tehnation]

I use ultra grey cause that's what I had on deck from rebuilding my block, and it can handle all the sealing jobs needed on the block like the oil pan, oil pump, short block case halves, valve covers, front cam covers and that's about it. The grey can do everything the black can, but you wouldn't use the black for the shortblock case halves and probably the cam covers, but you can use it on everything else. I would use whatever you have or whatevers cheaper cause its probably a one time use. 

https://www.permatex.com/gasket-maker-comparsion-chart/ 

[ohno06gt]

Thanks for the chart.  Parts should be here mid week so I can knock this out.   Going to keep reading as much as possible and watch some videos on it. 

Hopefully I get it leak free on the first shot.   I can't stand oil leaks, smells terrible and the spots on my driveway make me insane.