Valve cover gasket replacement!

[SSpeed]

Is the service manual wrong then or am I just reading it wrong?

[bucko3the7man]

Is the service manual wrong then or am I just reading it wrong?

 

I think you're reading it wrong. I read in the vacation pics that the entire raised elevation section plus the half moon seals are what is required. Page ME(H4DOTC)-53 states exactly where you need the RTV. If you have the actual PDF of the vacation pics then it's page 1760.

[SSpeed]

My pic was for the H6, I didn't notice that. But the ME(H4DOTC)-53 page you reference is what apexi attached in post #54 here. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4989666&postcount=54 I'm not reading that as the full valve cover surface? Help me understand what I'm missing, don't want to do it twice.

[bucko3the7man]

My pic was for the H6, I didn't notice that. But the ME(H4DOTC)-53 page you reference is what apexi attached in post #54 here. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4989666&postcount=54 I'm not reading that as the full valve cover surface? Help me understand what I'm missing, don't want to do it twice.

 

That is the exact page I was referencing. When you see the cover off, you'll understand what I mean about the elevation changes. Follow that guide, and only put the RTV in those sections. Hefty bead is fine, don't slap it on all over, but a solid bead on all those areas. I used ultra black when I did it the second time, and I don't leak at all.

[SSpeed]

Finally got around to pulling my valve cover off today. Was a little surprised with what I found, the valve cover surfaces had baked on sludge, up to 1mm thick in spots. The cams and head surfaces were very yellowed, the way you typically see when someone has extended oil changes (which I don't). Is that just from the heat of the uppipe? Did anyone else have that?

 

There were two types of RTV on the head surface, so I guess the previous owner (100k miles ago) must have replaced the valve cover once, it looks like it's been leaking awhile.

 

Despite jacking the car on the right side, an outrageous amount of oil leaked on to the uppipe and header, both wrapped, sort of worried about that.

[TonyF]

I did my valve covers this past weekend, saw sludge too but otherwise looked good in there, cleaned up ok without disconnecting the hoses (in the car) put some permatex ultra black on those elevation changes, let it cure over night, no more leaky puff smoke

[Soarer]

Here is the FSM instructions:

[Soarer]

Soooo.... I installed new valve cover gaskets on both sides when I put together my motor (new shortblock). So, I was able to do everything without the encumbrance of working against the frame rails with the motor in the car. I did it exactly as instructed however, both sides are leaking. On the front of the bottom of each head, there's an "L" shaped tang. The oil is dripping off of this and onto the exhaust. It's very frustrating! Here's a pic of where the oil is dripping off of my motor.

 

I'm gonna remove, clean up, seal and replace them again this weekend. Hopefully I'll get it this time.

[Soarer]

What an adventure I had getting this done right! When I redid the gaskets, even though I was very, very careful, I managed to let the bottom of the right side gasket get hung up on a cam journal cap when installing. I was greeted with a heavy flow of oil soaking my up pipe and exhaust manifold when I got everything back together and started it up. Not fun! So, apart everything had to come again.

[Soarer]

Here's the process I used that made this task bearable:

(directions are for right side valve cover)

 

A few notes.... While you're in there, you may want to replace your spark plugs.

 

Tools and supplies needed: Floor jack, jack stands (2), hockey pucks (2), 14mm 3/8" drive socket, 3/8" drive universal joint, 3/8" drive extension, 3/8" drive ratchet, 14mm deep socket, 12mm 1/4" drive socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, 10mm 1/4" drive socket, 10mm combination wrench (gearwrench preferably), flathead screwdriver, razor blade, Fujibond or Ultrablack RTV sealant, new valve cover gaskets and spark plug hole gaskets, brake cleaner, oil drain pan, 2' of aluminum foil, pliers, scotchbrite pad, ATF fluid for power steering, oil, patience.

 

1. Remove engine cover

2. Disconnect MAF

3. Remove airbox or intake (whichever you have)

4. Disconnect power steering hose from reservoir leaving the rubber connecting hose on the reservoir. Take a 1 qt yogurt container, put a small hole near the rim, run a zip tie through and secure the container to the PS res bracket to catch the PS fluid.

5. Jack up front of car but not too high as you'll still need your jack to lift the motor up in a minute.

6. Remove underbody engine cover.

7. Loosen left motor mount about 6 turns but do nor remove nut.

8. Remove right motor mount nut and washer.

9. Loosen transmission mount nuts about 8 turns.

10. Jack up the right side of the motor carefully. Put a block of wood or stack two hockey pucks on the top of your jack and push against the bolt that holds the bottom of the heat shield to the exhaust manifold under the right head. Lift the motor slowly and be careful not to lift too far. When you start to feel some resistance, back of a hair so you're not compressing the motor into the tunnel.

11. Remove the valve cover vent/equalization hoses from the top of the valve cover. Fold them up and out of the way.

12. Unplug the coil packs and pull the zip tie style out of the valve cover. Fold the wires up and out of the way.

13. Remove the coil packs.

14. Place aluminum foil around your up pipe and on top of your exhaust manifold to prevent oil from soaking it when you pull the valve cover.

15. Place an oil catch pan under the right side of the motor.

16. Remove the valve cover bolts.

17. Remove the valve cover.

18. Clean the mating surface of the head. This needs to have ALL gasket maker/RTV/Fujibond removed. It's got to be SPOTLESS. Pull off the big chunks with your hand. Carefully use a razor blade to cut off as much as you can being sure not to score the soft aluminum mating surface. Use a Scotch pad to remove the rest of the gunk.

19. With a clean rag or paper towel soak up any oil that has collected in the bottom of the head. You don't want this dripping on the mating surface before you apply your new RTV.

20. Clean up your valve cover. Carefully clean the channel where the gasket sits. Get it spotless. Spray down the inside and outside of the valve cover with brake cleaner.

21. Rest your new gasket and spark plug hole gaskets in the valve cover channels.

22. Spray some brake cleaner on a clean rag and wipe down the mating surface on the head. Check for any bits of old sealant that may have fallen behind the cam shaft or along the bottom of the head.

23. Apply RTV Ultra Black or Fujibond across the half moon gaskets on the back of the head, along the bottom mating surface, up the cam cap and on the top of the cam cap where it changes elevation. Some spots are hard to reach so you can put a small dap of sealant on your finger and apply it where needed. The most important spots are along the half moons, the corners where the cam cap meets the head and along any elevation changes on the cam caps.

24. Carefully slide your valve cover into place making sure that you didn't unseat your gaskets anywhere.

25. Install your valve cover bolts hand tight. Use a 10mm socket and turn it by hand without the ratchet handle. Be sure to follow the tightening alphabetical sequence shown in the pic above.

26. Let the sealant cure for at least one hour.

27. Tighten the valve cover bolts a little at a time in the alphabetical sequence shown above. You should go around two or three times in the sequence until you feel the bolts bottom out against the head. Tighten to 4.7 ft/lbs or 56 inch/lbs using a torque wrench. I used a 1/4" drive bar style torque wrench. I couldn't get it on one or two of the hard to reach bolts so I had to guess at it using a combination wrench. You'll feel when the bolt has compressed the rubber gasket and bottoms out against the head mating surface. You only want to snug it up a hair more at that point.

28. If you can, leave the car overnight to let the sealant fully cure.

29. Install your coil packs and plug them in making sure to reattach your oxygen sensor wire bracket to the rear coil pack.

30. Reconnect your vent/equalization hoses.

31. Lower the motor off the jack.

32. Tighten your left motor mount and reinstall your left motor mount nut and washer. Torque to spec.

33. Tighten your trans mount nuts. Torque to spec.

34. Remove your PS fluid catch container.

35. Reconnect your PS hose.

36. Top off your PS res to the middle line.

37. Install your airbox/intake.

38. Reconnect MAF sensor.

39. Check your oil.

40. Start car and check for obvious leaks.

41. If no leaks, remove aluminum foil from up pipe and exhaust manifold.

42. Liberally spray down anywhere that has oil on it with brake cleaner both old black gunky oil and fresh oil. Wipe it down and get it as clean as you can.

43. Install lower engine cover.

44. Install top engine cover.

45. Test drive car.

46. Check/top off engine oil and PS fluid.

47. Drink 100 beers.

 

After you've got all this done, you'll probably have some residual oil on your exhaust that's going to smoke as it burns off. Drive the car for a day or two and then get back under there to inspect if you got the job done right. Look for any fresh clean oil coming off the bottom of the head.

Edited September 16, 2015 by Soarer

[yaboyless]

I believe I have the same problem with my 06 lgt. It has 122,000 miles on it and recently when Ive started it up in the morning when the engine is cold it smokes a little bit for about 15 minutes and gives off and awful smell. Does that sound like the same problem or does it sound like a head gasket? Coming from passenger side of engine bay right under turbo

[Matt166]

I believe I have the same problem with my 06 lgt. It has 122,000 miles on it and recently when Ive started it up in the morning when the engine is cold it smokes a little bit for about 15 minutes and gives off and awful smell. Does that sound like the same problem or does it sound like a head gasket? Coming from passenger side of engine bay right under turbo

 

Get dirty and get under there, its the only way with leaks.

 

Could well be your inner CV boot.

[Mark34]

One thing I noticed doing this job is that all of the bolts were not the same length. There were 3 different lengths on the pass side and two different lengths on the drivers side. Make sure to stick each bolt back in the same hole it came out of.

[Zac88]

I did this job last night. Passenger side was leaking. Was a really tight fit because I did not raise the motor.

I used permatex ultra grey and so far no leaks. I was having trouble keeping the gasket in place in the valve cover so I used a little bit of the ultra gray between the gasket and valve cover so it would stick a little and not pop out.

[Rhiadon]

I'm going to have to do this and I'm deciding if I want to take the time to do it myself or not. I'm having trouble finding the removal procedure from the "vacation pics". I found the installation procedure thanks to this post on page ME(H4DOTC)-53.

 

Is the removal buried some place in the "vacation pics"

[bucko3the7man]

I'm going to have to do this and I'm deciding if I want to take the time to do it myself or not. I'm having trouble finding the removal procedure from the "vacation pics". I found the installation procedure thanks to this post on page ME(H4DOTC)-53.

 

Is the removal buried some place in the "vacation pics"

 

Post #85 (five above you) has a very detailed explanation.

[Rhiadon]

Post #85 (five above you) has a very detailed explanation.

I'm sorry if it seemed as if I was not bothering to read the thread. I actually did read the entire thread and did indeed see the previous post. Very detailed. I was hoping there was something in the "vacation pics" because I'm so visual and I like the backup of the illustrations and the like. If this list is what we have, then that's going to be good enough for me. Thanks guys.

[bucko3the7man]

I'm sorry if it seemed as if I was not bothering to read the thread. I actually did read the entire thread and did indeed see the previous post. Very detailed. I was hoping there was something in the "vacation pics" because I'm so visual and I like the backup of the illustrations and the like. If this list is what we have, then that's going to be good enough for me. Thanks guys.

 

Yeah don't think we have a detailed removal with pictures. It's fairly straightforward, I think you'll be fine.

[Rhiadon]

I'm finally doing this, but of course one of my hose cracked so it needs to be replaced. I could use a little help figuring out what part it is so I can get one.

 

There are two hoses that come out of the top of the passenger side valve cover. I broke the front most one. I think it is part #99071AC010. Can anyone confirm?

 

Also, what is the other hose anyway. Luckily I didn't break that one.

[Evan]

Here, I thought this might help, to know where to put the RTV.

I don't understand MrTris's photo. It appears to be saying to apply UltraBlack all the way around rather than select areas specified in the FSM. Am I misunderstanding?

[Evan]

Here are the part numbers I gathered for this job, at least on my 2005 Legacy GT (4cyl, 2.5L turbo). Quantities in parentheses.

 

(4) 13293AA051 - Inner Valve Cover Gasket / Spark Plug Hole

(1) 13270AA190 - Valve Cover Gasket right side

(1) 13272AA140 - Valve Cover Gasket left side

(4) 11051AA070 - Plug Cylinder Head (half moon seals)

 

For anyone looking in the FSM, search for ROCKER COVER instead of VALVE COVER.

[bucko3the7man]

I think it's overkill, but feel free to do it if you want. I just followed the Flying Spaghetti Monster and mine have been fine.

[Dishwasher]

I use Permatex Gray. Jacking up the motor helps on the passenger side, it's pretty unnecessary on the driver's side.

 

I would do the half moons while you are in there. Sometimes they can leak, and it sucks having to do this job twice.

[bucko3the7man]

I use Permatex Gray. Jacking up the motor helps on the passenger side, it's pretty unnecessary on the driver's side.

 

I would do the half moons while you are in there. Sometimes they can leak, and it sucks having to do this job twice.

 

Disagree with you there, passenger side was easier than driver without jacking. Just jack both sides so that you don't mess it up. When I did mine originally I had the lip of the gasket on the driver's side come out of the track then I ended up cutting it when I tightened the bolts down. Second time I jacked the driver's side up and all was good.

[Zachariahc]

I'm finally doing this, but of course one of my hose cracked so it needs to be replaced. I could use a little help figuring out what part it is so I can get one.

 

There are two hoses that come out of the top of the passenger side valve cover. I broke the front most one. I think it is part #99071AC010. Can anyone confirm?

 

Also, what is the other hose anyway. Luckily I didn't break that one.

 

That's the correct part. Assuming front most means front of the car and it connects to the hard pcv piping attached to the back of the manifold.

 

I had to replace mine after a car fire and that was the pn.