What turbo? wiki... with a twist

[Lafta]

Thanks Daniels. I realize the vf40 is maxed out with Stage 2.

 

What I'm hoping for is a reply that tells me how much longer (ballpark #) I can go on my stocker.

 

Or....If there is anyone who has replaced it as a preventative measure and at what mileage they did so (at Stage 2).

 

Perhaps it's a question that really can't be answered. Hence the no replies.

 

Beuller? Beuller?

[DeltaNu1142]

From what I've read on here our VF40s are maxed out at stage 2

 

I'm really trying, but I can't wrap my head around what this statement means.

 

If it's just sarcasm... carry on.

[jasejase]

This has been talked about a bunch of times. There is no magic equation out there to determine the longevity of your car/engine/turbo.

 

Increased power could certainly expedite the wear process. In addition, the tune you have plays a huge part in the process as well. Coupled together, you could have a recipe for disaster, or... not.

 

There are guys on here that autox at stage 3, and they are doing fine. There are also a number of members on here that have failures with no mods whatsoever. Proper maintenance (oil changes, checking your oil, banjo bolt maintenance, etc) can/will also play a major roll in your outcome.

 

It's a bit of a roll of the dice to some extent, however you can control the utilization of a quality tune, good maintenance habits, decent fluids, and building the car within the means of the equipment you have installed.

 

... Not to mention driving habits and general condition of the car prior to modifications.

[BarManBean]

From what I've read on here our VF40s are maxed out at stage 2

 

I'm really trying, but I can't wrap my head around what this statement means.

 

If it's just sarcasm... carry on.

 

Seems to make sense to me. Stage 2 with a vf40 (which technically is the only way to actually be stage 2), there really isn't much power left on the table. Fuel won't help you, more exhaust won't really help you--you could do headers, a tmic, port and polish stuff, tgv deletes, etc, and all of this would give a few more hp and probably some better spool--but you're not going to get much more power out of a vf40 after you go stage 2. Eventually you just get a different turbo and go stage 3...

[Tehnation]

Stage 3 ftw!

[DeltaNu1142]

Stage 2 with a vf40 (which technically is the only way to actually be stage 2...Eventually you just get a different turbo and go stage 3...

My point lies in here somewhere. It just seems like a recursive statement... or self-evident, if you want.

[Nrw]

The whole "stage _" stuff makes my head hurt.

[Tehnation]

Hmm I think he's trying to ask, how can I tell the "condition" of my turbo. You have to remove the downpipe and check the propeller shaft for play, if it has play, thats pointing towards the I'm going to shit on your engine side.

[Lafta]

Nope, tehnation, not asking that....exactly. But thank you...sincerely.

 

I'm more or less asking if there is a ballpark mileage where I should start thinking about replacing my turbo.

 

jasejase pretty much answered my question (a few lines up) by saying there really is no hard or fast rule to determining the time to replace.

 

I'm going in soon to have a new catless UP installed, as well as a new catback exhaust. Wohoo! I'll have them check for shaft play then.

 

Darn it though....I just don't want the headaches involved with a failed turbo. Does anyone replace as a means of preventative maintenance (at Stage 2)??

 

Thanks to everyone for helping the new guy out.

[jasejase]

Just to add... They usually do fail for a reason. Typically oil starvation of some sort.

 

People do replace them preventatively on here. Often upgrading to a 16g at the same time or vf52. Not sure if I would. People seem to use it more as an excuse to mod I think! Lol

 

I think good maintenance and a periodic check for shaft play should steer you well.

[BarManBean]

If by "periodic" check for shaft play you mean every oil change or so, then I think yes that would help. Otherwise, the chance of you pulling the DP and checking shaft play to find something amiss before it prevents itself in another way--sounds, CELs, etc--are slim to none. Even checking every 3k miles isn't likely to help much. When turbos fail it's normally because one or more components fails and it seems to happen pretty damn quick.

[HAMMER DOWN]

Just to add... They usually do fail for a reason. Typically oil starvation of some sort.

 

People do replace them preventatively on here. Often upgrading to a 16g at the same time or vf52. Not sure if I would. People seem to use it more as an excuse to mod I think! Lol

 

I think good maintenance and a periodic check for shaft play should steer you well.

 

 

 

 

If by "periodic" check for shaft play you mean every oil change or so, then I think yes that would help. Otherwise, the chance of you pulling the DP and checking shaft play to find something amiss before it prevents itself in another way--sounds, CELs, etc--are slim to none. Even checking every 3k miles isn't likely to help much. When turbos fail it's normally because one or more components fails and it seems to happen pretty damn quick.

 

 

The secret;

 

yah, yah....original motor here too. how are you on the original turbo still??

 

Copy/Paste from other threads;

 

Most important;

 

Want your turbo to last as long as your motor. In short, check you oil level often & top as needed. Use whatever oil & filter that will protect for the OCI's your running. OA's is the only way you know that your oil & filter is up for the challenge. After that IMO no OA's are needed.

 

Mike

 

And this doesn't hurt either, if you put a ton of miles on a year,

 

Yes the filters + the oil line add 2 qts. Mine always took 5qts. to fill. Just above the full line. Now take 7qt.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ons-81741.html

 

Pics with fender & bumper cover removed when I installed the RacerX FMIC.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0920112213b.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0920112213a.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0920112213.jpg

 

 

 

Mike

Edited February 15, 2014 by HAMMER DOWN

[fahr_side]

Well, it's been four years and 60,000km of fun since I installed the BNR 16G and it finally showed some sign of mortality. I started getting a little smoke at the tailpipe at high revs and a little sheen of oil appeared from the clamp area between center and exhaust housings.

I would have loved to have had Bryan work on it but being on the other side of the world the shipping made no sense. My local turbo vendor pulled it apart and actually found only the rear oil seal a bit worn, and the turbine caked in carbon. Aside from this, everything was declared fit for service, the main shaft itself showing no measurable wear at all. They put new seals in, and new bushings while in there since they are cheap.

A billet 18G wheel has been added to mix things up a little but the original EvoX 16G wheel was still in fine shape.

 

Miles in use: 60,000km

Oil in use: Redline synthetic 10W-40

OCI: 5,000km

Oil feed: FP line (no banjo or inline filter)

Use profile: Hard use with boost targets at 18psi

Failure mode: Hotside oil seal wore out. No other damage.

 

Would I buy this turbo again? Oh hell yes.

[Living Legacy]

I'm finally ready to do some mods, this thread is AWESOME! My goal is to maintain some reliability while hitting around 300 WHP... maybe a little more

 

Right now everything is stock on my '05 GT 5MT with 120K, aside from some oil consumption, everything is going great (leak down and compression results are good, not seeing any blue smoke but burn a qt/1Kmiles).

 

I'm planning on a TMIC, pump, injectors, oil line, DP, UP, Pro-Tune (one for 93 and one for E85), 3 port EBCS, wide band/oil pressure gauge, and then of course the turbo (everything else stock except for a single mass flywheel and an exeddy replacement stock clutch-oops).

 

Here's my questions: VF52, TD05H-68HTA, or something else? Am I forgetting anything else mod wise? Any other suggestions?

 

Thanks guys!

[evildriver]

VF52 will get you there on E85. I think you're forgetting suspension/brake mods No point in having more power if you can't control it

[derkahn]

Looks like my bnr20g is sick... New turbo is on the way . I'll let you all know what the cause was. On the bright side I got a grimmspeed tmic that with the addition of a different hose from GS I can run sti type turbos ( I think you can do the same thing w process west' new tmic too) so a Garrett gtx is in my future.

[arg36]

Seems like the best way to prevent catastrophic engine failure is to upgrade to a beefier turbo then? What is the most "bulletproof" turbo we can swap to?

[StkmltS]

Seems like the best way to prevent catastrophic engine failure is to upgrade to a beefier turbo then? What is the most "bulletproof" turbo we can swap to?

After reading as much as I can about the subject, I think the general consensus isn't really that the stock turbo sucks all that much, it's usually that something else fails, which then causes (or persuades) the otherwise good turbo to destroy itself. Sure turbos wear out, but much of the time it's something else that causes it to kaboom. Anyone else want to speak up here?

 

If inspecting your turbo yields good results, the easiest relatively safe preventive measure is to clean or remove the screen from the banjo bolt (it's a tiny little in-line filter) in the oil line that feeds the turbo. Many turbo failures are reportedly caused by oil starvation, often caused by the banjo bolt getting clogged. People like to argue over removing the screen or just cleaning it regularly.

 

The elephant in the room: people tend to push their cars harder than they were designed to handle.

Edited December 10, 2015 by StkmltS

[fahr_side]

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html

[birdmayne]

I am going with an new OEM shortblock, basic reworking of heads (stock components, possibly a mild port and polish and 3 angle valves), injectors (740s?), upgraded fuel pump and stock intake. That is about as far as I can make any actual decisions at this point. I want to build for a nicely matched combo that I can DD and hit a handful of HPDEs per year. My goal would be 300whp, but reliability and good fitment are paramount to numbers. I am looking for opinions from those who have far more experience in turbos than I do.

VF-52 (16G) or BNR18? I am also highly interested in going with a twin scroll set up (Flinky, I'm looking at you, man). I love early boost, but want some strong peak boost as well. Turbo lag irritates me.

I've read the build threads, I've done hours of research. I just can't make a decision on this crap.

[birdmayne]

nothing to see here Edited December 28, 2016 by birdmayne
double tap

[jasejase]

I've been there. Ended up 18g. It was fun though I had to adjust the way I drove a bit. Still a very drive able setup. 18g requires fuel, ebcs, and new ic. 52 will be cutting it close to 300 but you can get there. 52 upgrade doesn't require full fuel mods or tmic, but to reach 300 you'll need them.

 

If I had to do it again I may go 52. Down low is where the fun is

 

Make sure you do handling mods first.

If you want to alleviate lag, just stick with the 52 or 16. They're both very quick to spool. If you want 330 or so and a bit more lag, go 18. You'll be happy and irritated no matter what.

[birdmayne]

I've been there. Ended up 18g. It was fun though I had to adjust the way I drove a bit. Still a very drive able setup. 18g requires fuel, ebcs, and new ic. 52 will be cutting it close to 300 but you can get there. 52 upgrade doesn't require full fuel mods or tmic, but to reach 300 you'll need them.

 

If I had to do it again I may go 52. Down low is where the fun is

 

Make sure you do handling mods first.

If you want to alleviate lag, just stick with the 52 or 16. They're both very quick to spool. If you want 330 or so and a bit more lag, go 18. You'll be happy and irritated no matter what.

 

I will be doing fuel, and I have ebcs. TMIC depends on which turbo I end up with. I think...

My suspension and brakes have enough done to them to feel confident with 300, but theres always room for more improvement down the line

[jasejase]

Talk to a tuner (tuning alliance for one) and ask their opinion. Most tuners I know are not fans of the 18g platform. They all have their reasons. I liked it though lol

[fahr_side]

A 52 or 16G will get you 300whp on decent gas. I prefer the 16G as it holds boost better at high revs but the numbers will come out about the same. Add an EL header for a bonus 20whp.

Forget twinscroll on the EJ25x, it doesn't do that much.

If you're running side-feed injectors take the opportunity to upgrade to top-feeds. The stock 520 side-feeds may come up a little short and I hate the modded ones. I recommend the Bosch-made DW750 top-feeds.

 

The stock intercooler is fine at 300whp if you don't push boost too high and pop it. Some people band them to stop that but mine held 18psi for years.

 

New stock shortblock? Pull the pistons and gap the rings properly before putting the heads on. Toss the stock bolts and use head studs for peace of mind.