.blackgt. Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Hey guys, I was just wondering how you would wire the system that I'm attempting to set up. Amplifier: MTX TA5601 rated at 300W @ 4 ohms, 600W @ 2 ohms. Subwoofer: MTX T5510-44 DVC @ 4 ohms per coil. Speaking about the sub, I wanted to connect the positive to the positive terminal, and the negative to the negative. This would bridge the voice coils and then I would take the positive of one coil and connect it to the corresponding positive on the amp, and with the opposite voice coil, I would take the negative and connect it to the corresponding negative on the amp. My question is this: The amp is mono block, but there are two sets of terminals on it. Do I bridge those as well? I can find a diagram to do what I originally planned via Rockford Fosgates wiring wizard, but it includes an amp with one set of terminals, not two. I want to wire the amp for 600 watts @ 2ohms to a sub with DVC rated at 4 ohms each. Any help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heedz Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 No you do not bridge the amp use designated terminals should be mentioned if not just use a set of + and -. This will help you http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 SCENARIO 1: step 1: connect both voice coils in parallel,i.e., positive terminal to positive terminal and neg terminal to neg terminal. Using a multimeter u should read 2 ohms. step 2: use ONLY ONE set of +/- terminal from the amp and wire it to one of the coils terminals. Leave the other set of +/- terminal on the amp alone. SCENARIO 2: Or u could skip all of that and just connect each voice coil to each set of +/- terminals on your amp directly and that's it. The only annoying thing with this option is that you'll have 4 wires from speaker box to amp. In both scenarios, the amp will 'see' a 2 ohm load and will deliver full power (assuming you are using proper size power wires). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nedrex Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 The MTX users manual has your answer: These amps will have two PARALLEL speaker terminals: a positive and negative for a single woofer and an OPTIONAL second set of positive and negative terminals for a two woofer configuration. These amps can drive a minimum of a 2 ohm load. So your answer is to run the two sub coils in parallel (2 ohm load) to one of the amp speaker outputs. Trying to bridge these two outputs to a 2 ohm load would likely kill the amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 No. This amp is a class D monoblock, so you are not bridging anything. MTX simply has two speaker terminals so you don't have to parallel or series wire your speaker. In your case you simply wire each voice coil on the sub to one of the two terminals, just like you're wiring up a pair of speakers on a 2 channel amp. Since it's a monoblock it'll see a 2 ohm load and output 600w. You could probably also do it the traditional way, wire both voice coils in parallel then wire it to one speaker terminal. Either way the board is going to see a 2 ohm load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 My only question or scenario that threw me for a loop was the two terminals on the amplifier. Thanks for all the replies and help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 I'm also doing the big 3 upgrade, and using 0 gauge wire. What I'm wondering is what size wire does subaru utilize for the negative post, and the positive post. I'm going to purchase some clean terminal connectors so I'm wondering which gauge holes I should include. Thanks ahead of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I'm also doing the big 3 upgrade, and using 0 gauge wire. What I'm wondering is what size wire does subaru utilize for the negative post, and the positive post. I'm going to purchase some clean terminal connectors so I'm wondering which gauge holes I should include. Thanks ahead of time. I did not have any problem using common 0 gauge ring terminals such as the ones below. you can 'easily' tighten them up on the battery terminals. The nuts on the terminals are 10mm (at least on mine). http://www.aapexonline.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/g/r/gr.jpg FYI, I left the OEM wiring on the battery alone. I just added my 0 gauge wires on it (one from alternator to positive battery terminal // one wire from engine block to negative battery terminal // one wire from negative battery terminal to frame). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 I noticed that most people don't leave OEM wiring but I am planning on leaving it. I wanted to make the battery posts look "nice", so I was going to purchase these http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_30057_db-Link-NBTP03.html?from=701 Any reason not to other than them being a bit unnecessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Nice item at a great price. You may have to modify a bit your OEM wiring though if you decide to use that connector. As for me leaving the OEM wiring alone, I did it just in case I decide to sell the car one day. This way, it'll be much easier to go back to stock. Plus, leaving the OEM wiring alone and doing the big 3 on top of it does not affect in any way car audio performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 I would have to cut the end connector and use the raw wire, which is why i just decided not to. You convinced me with the back to stock idea. I'd have to re crimp an end on if I wanted to ever go back. I just ordered the following two items for my setup: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40315_Elite-Audio-EA-KIT0.html And http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_26696_Axxess-AX-ALOC608.html Any comments? Positive or negatives, I'm all ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbreadmanGT Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 If you are only planning on adding that sub/amp, i dont think you will see a problem on oem wires. But if you do do the big3, I would just replace the oem wiring with the big 3, no point in adding more wires and then adding more wires with an amp kit. (Oem wires plus 0g wire for big3 then 4g wire for amp power) I like using terminals like the db link or stinger(both do same thing) keeps all the wires organized, secure and somewhat protected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 I figure I can get a 0 gauge amp kit for cheap enough. That means I need 0 gauge for my big 3 kit that I'll piece together. I know I won't really see any improvement with the big 3, but it's all in my head. I'm bored, it's my dd, and I don't have access to a garage for the next 2 months so small projects will be on my plate for the time being. Anyone ever use that LOC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I have a hard to believe that the link you provided for the wiring kit is really 1/0 gauge. It appears that there is more 'plastic housing' than actual copper. See this pic below: http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/for-sale/398666.jpg I am using the most left wire (Knuconceptz). You can find plenty of kits on ebay. That's where I got it. And I can say it is a true 1/0 Gauge wire--FAT! But again, the one you showed may be just fine if you're planning to just draw about 600-900Watts of power. But I don't believe it to be a real 1/0 Gauge cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbreadmanGT Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 You will get alot of unwanted sound from that (LOC) line out converter, i would go with at least the cache brands http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33576_Cache-CLOC-D.html they have more expensive ones that will do more but is not needed, if you do plan on adding more like front stage then splurge and get a dsp of some sort for oem stereos. im going with the alpine dsp. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27162_Alpine-PXE-H660.html also its extremely overkill to run a 0g amp kit for 600watts, i would do one of the db link 4g kits from sonicelectronix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 I understand what you are saying as I was weary as well, but I have a short strand of 0 gauge wire at home that I will be double checking with. The stuff at home is Rockford Fosgate so I trust it's size rating. Also, the picture on that website, I'm not too sure it's of the "actual product." it may be a picture of a kit, but not the 1/0 kit. Wouldn't that be some sort of fraud if the wire wasn't in fact 1/0 gauge as advertised? They measure wire thickness not plastic insulator thickness if I'm not mistaken. I could be wrong for audio wire, and maybe cheap companies cheat with measurements.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbreadmanGT Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 yeah i agree if you have the money get the knuconceptz wires, i ran that in my g35 and will run it again in my LGT. in some cases price really reflects performance in car audio, good 0g wires can run you $4-$6 per ft, and you are looking at a kit that has 20ft plus other acc. for under $50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 I am on hold with them as I type this. I will be asking about the true size of the wire. I just read the reviews (could be anyone typing them) and it stated that it is true 0 gauge wire. Hopefully I luck out. I will update when I get off of hold and actually speak to someone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Check out the table on wikipedia. Look at the official specs of a 1/0 Gauge wire and just ask them (specifically the cross sectional area in mm^2 IMO). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbreadmanGT Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 check ebay, they always have knukonceptz amp kits and wiring for cheap. but 1/0g wires is overthetop for even double the power you plan on drawing, go with 4g. save the extra cash for a good LOC or DSP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 I was told "yes, it is a 0 gauge wire." I then asked how it is so cheap considering 0 gauge at its cheaper end of the spectrum is 4 dollar per, and he said "because it is a kit." I will run it either way if it's 0 or 4, but I will be ordering the 0 elsewhere for my big 3 kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 GingerbreadmanGT, can you point me in the direction of a good quality LOC That you would utilize? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbreadmanGT Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33576_Cache-CLOC-D.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gingerbreadmanGT Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 also that one i posted is also a line driver so your amp will get a better, higher input voltage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33576_Cache-CLOC-D.html should work pretty well for your needs. Have not read any reviews about that specific item which I encourage you to do. But at least specs look good. Edit: hang on a sec..I am getting confused. Are you going to use the speaker signals from the OEM headunit as input signals? If yes, then you don't need any extra equipment really cause your amp accepts high level inputs.. btw, how to wire your amp directly from MTX user manual: http://store.mtx.com/caraudio/products/manualsQuickInstall/amps/TA5601InstallWiring.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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