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well the UP i got also had stripped studs so i was going to have to rig up something on that end too which i didn't really want to do.

 

 

Speaking of which if anyone wants an up pipe i spent hours removing the studs from (could be bolted or tack-weld some bolts to the bottom of it) for cheap lemme know.

i think i got $50 and 1 hr labor in it.

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Crap I've only been putting in 4.2 quarts. :eek:

Should have known better than to trust the manual.

 

Jk I actually overfill anyway so I'm like 4.5 quarts. But that actually sounds like a more cost effective option than the KillerB pan if it really picks up two quarts. Might be worth looking into for that cost...............

 

4.2 is correct for oil changes.

 

5 qts is the TOTAL capacity. You're only required to put 5 quarts in when you're dealing with a fresh (dry) engine. Per the FSM.

 

 

Very good and complete post fahr_side. Thanks!

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Question-I've got a gutted OEM LGT up-pipe that I got off another member that he ran for a while. Do I need a reflash or tune to run this catless up-pipe? I just trying to protect turbo life,not gain hp.

 

On the oil issue-I've run Castrol Full synthetic/OEM Subaru oil filter and change it every 3k miles/4 months(more by months since I've put 3k miles this last year). I tossed the banjo bolt filter @ 77k miles and it was crystal clean.

Edited by Wrench
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This isn't the place for the up-pipe / tune conversation.
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just to submit another datapoint...

 

My '05 has 80k, and had an Invidia up when I got it. The rest had been put back to stock, but I assume it had been at least stage 2 for some of it's miles prior to me owning it.

 

Pulled the turbo last Friday & found about a 1/16 inch axial play, but no radial. no rubbing so far from what I can see.

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Just to submit another datapoint...

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/anyone-oem-blown-turbo-please-post-83047.html

 

This might be the better place for adding this kind of data.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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  • 1 month later...
I just bought my 05 LGT. It had holes torn down the side from the lugs off of a semi. When I checked the oil before I bought it the oil level was almost an inch above the full mark. Could this have done anything to my engine that could lead to future problems? It sat for like a year too. Any info would be appreciated Thanks.
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  • 4 weeks later...

Cross-posting from another thread by request:

 

Having just got done with an expensive rebuild including turbo upgrade (hired the whole thing out), I would suggest the following 12 step program:

1. read this thread

2. read thru the engine rebuild stickies

3. decide how much money you want to spend

4. decide whether you have mechanical skills to do it yourself, then review #3

5. regardless of decision of #4, find out why the turbo blew - it just failed? lack of oil caused the failure? shrapnel from somewhere caused the failure?

6. review #3 based on results of #5

7. decide how much time you are willing to spend idling at every startup - <1 minute (use stock parts), 1-3 minutes (minimal updates, no forged parts), >3 minutes (forged parts, any turbo, $$$ is the limit)

8. sort out all the other parts that are required to match your selection in #7

9. review #3 based on results of #8

10. order parts or drop off at shop

11. assemble/wait

12. post dyno results

 

I might have missed some steps, but my "little" turbo upgrade was an expensive project and took 6 months from "oh sh*t, my engine failed" to "OMG, I need to buy a radar detector".

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
thank you for all the info. i have an 06 baja turbo. the turbo has failed & i'm going to replace it with a remanufactured unit. are there any proceedures you've come across for turbo replacement?
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It will a depend on how much & how big are the metal shaving, if anyare in your oil. Thing to check & clean or replace; turbo & ACVS oil feed lines, oil cooler (is what your oil filter spins on) & drop oil pan & inspect for metal shaving or bigger peaces,( bigger peaces = new short block is in your future).

 

 

This is what I do when putting new machined parts on a motor. That's part of the oiling system , (turbo, heads & new short block).

 

Start motor, check for leaks with new oil & oil filter, until it reaches operating temperature & change oil & filter. Then change oil & oil filter at 500 miles, 1500 miles & at 3000 miles. After that oil & oil filter change at you reg. OCI.

 

This as always served me well.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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Definition of pieces could be?

 

Looking in the oil drain pan (the drained out oil)

silvery tint to the oil = check & clean or replace; turbo & ACVS oil feed lines, oil cooler (is what your oil filter spins on) & drop oil pan

a few specs of metal in the oil = check the oil pan, if same, check & clean or replace; turbo & ACVS oil feed lines, oil cooler (is what your oil filter spins on) & drop oil pan

it looks like metallic "dust" in the oil = pull the pan & full clean of everything, replace anything that carries oil

it looks like metallic "sand" in the oil = new short block, full clean of everything, replace anything that carries oil

it looks like metallic "gravel" in the oil = new engine

 

Looking in the bottom of the oil pan (after pulling it)

silvery tint to the oil = check & clean or replace; turbo & ACVS oil feed lines, oil cooler (is what your oil filter spins on) & drop oil pan

a few specs of metal in the oil = check the oil pan, if same, check & clean or replace; turbo & ACVS oil feed lines, oil cooler (is what your oil filter spins on) & drop oil pan

it looks like metallic "dust" in the oil = pull the pan & full clean of everything, replace anything that carries oil

it looks like metallic "sand" in the oil = new short block, full clean of everything, replace anything that carries oil

it looks like metallic "gravel" in the oil = new engine

the pan looks pristine (no oil) = new engine

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  • 4 weeks later...

FWIW, if your replacing the turbo your self, to make life easier, I just used bolts the dealer gave me to replace the studs in the up pipe.

 

They made the job of lining up the turbo to the intake pipe very easy. Those studs on the up pipe are a PITA.

 

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4783.jpg

Edited by Max Capacity

305,000miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 1 month later...
Excess oil blowby from failed ringlands, or even a blocked PCV system can cause more oil than usual to get into the intake. Check and clean the PCV first. Then pull the downpipe and check turbine shaft play. If both check out okay do a compression and leakdown test.
Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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  • 3 weeks later...
I have a 2005 LGT, My shop botched the timing belt and it slipped 2 "ticks" after the belt shredded from a loose bolt. Engine was not damaged, but now the turbo is "stuck". Bore scope shows the blades are intact. Will it damage the motor to drive it as is (while I save up $$ for repair)?
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^^^Do not drive it until you can get it fix. It's stuck & you don't know way. If it comes free again & make contact with the it's housing. You could send metal shaving into you motor. Take that out too.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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Don't see any association between TB being off 2-ticks and a stuck turbo. Something larger is at work here. Definitely DON"T drive it until you figure out what's going on.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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