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Official Suspension FAQ - Swaybars - Struts/Springs - Coilovers - Alignment


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So i have a 25mm fsb and a 22-25mm rsb.....currently its 22mm in the back....when i swerve back and forth, the front seems to be drag the back around and it feels sluggish. What do i need to do to make the car handle more uniformly? Could this be because of cheap tires and stock suspension (body roll)?
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I gotta question guys. I've got me some big fat RalliTek sways on my car now - with RalliTek endlinks for the rear bar as well. I haz Outback sitting at stock height on KYB struts. My fear is that, especially since it IS an Outback high off the ground, and therefore rolls more than a standard Legacy, that I will eventually break the swaybar mounts. I'm told it's not a matter of if, but when. Having said that, I was looking into upgraded mounts - preferably before the AutoX in July that I plan on attending. My question is, do I need to get upgraded mounts from Whiteline or something, or would a set of mounts from, say, a WRX or an STi fit this car, and be beefier so as to manage the extra stress?
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  • 3 weeks later...
so thats the front and rear for all those models? i have read many times that the 04 sti were the best fit for height

 

all those models share the same top hole positioning as well as the same strut setup which allows any of these models to share strut/spring combos with another.

 

As for the best fit for height, I personally think there there is no perfect hieght some like to lift their subies some like theirs lowered. If you are looking for a stiffer setup with the same ride height 04 sti struts/springs will be a great match

 

Ordered 10k/8k coils. Fortune auto 500.

 

Heard it is better to run stiffer front then rear on these

 

In alot of front engine cars (or subies) that spring rates will always be stiffer in the front compared to the rear because of your engine. but if you are talking about adjusting the damping settings on them, I that really becomes a setting where you gotta play with it to see where sit for you. My left my hipermaxxs in the middle for comfort and fun but i went through a process of figuring out what was the best setting for me.

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there is a certain amount of wizardry that goes into suspension setups and tuning.

 

this is the formula that has always worked for me personally. take it if you like or rearrange it however best suits you. nothing can help like seat time.

 

for dd and auto-x purposes only. (dirt is an entire different monster to tame)

 

1: find the tires you are going to use. absolutely first and foremost. tires are the only thing that contacts the road and are therefore the most important thing you will do to adjust the character of your driving.

 

2: find a spring rate that you can live with. i have a kind of crappy back and cant tolerate the super stiff suspension of most lowered cars. a friend of mine is a semi-pro driver who uses 10k springs all around. definately not for me. i prefer 7k up front and 6k in the back. this provides a good feel to me. (again that is just me)

 

3: (probably more important than springs but i put it third because my back is hurting) find a really good adjustable dampener. this is crucial to how a car behaves under braking, accelerating, and load transfer side to side, fore and aft. generally speaking, if you have coil overs, the dampeners will be adjustable. this is an easy adjustment you can make at the auto-x course to a known value that you have discovered works best for you and your set up. again, i like it softer because of my back. standing around at an auto-x and then driving some spine cracking car isn't exactly my idea of a pleasant day out with the car. dampening can mean the difference between a well behaved predictable car and one that acts like that shitty dog your neighbors have that jumps up and down and shits every where.

 

5: sway bars. i like for the bars to be almost as stiff in the rear as in the front. i prefer there to be little understeer and since i run a softer set up a stiffer rear bar will compensate for lateral load that i'm giving up from my struts. i really like for cars to oversteer out of the throttle and understeer on it. this keeps you from having to countersteer during a corner from a poor weight transition. and will let you steer more so w/ the weight of the car rather than wheel input.

 

6: this is actually right behind the tires but i'm putting it here because of usually you do this after each part install. ALIGNMENT. this is just as important as the tires them selves. we've all seen the crappy cambered cars that are too low and only have an inch of contact patch. many people will tell you that you should have as much camber as possible because it handles better. it does to a point but you better be able to do alignments on your own or you'll be repeating step one way to often. for me i don't like a lot of camber in the back or toe at all in the back because it will make the car very twitchy. ruining all that hard work you put in in purchasing quality components. up front 2.5 degrees of camber is plenty. with a shade of toe in you should be about bang on. some people will run up to 3.5 degrees of camber. i don't recommend it but do what is best for you. don't toe out in the front. you'll be back to buying tires again.

 

7: experiment, experiment, experiment. only adjust one thing at a time. and don't do drastic jumps in settings. you might hate have your rear bar set to soft and think, "well i just jump all the way up". but you have skipped the middle section wich could have been bang on. having more isnt always better. just try to see what works for you. and don't follow someone else's formula just because they are fast. it might be perfect for them but be horrendous for you. seat time is what will tell you whats right and whats wrong. and just because something doesn't work right now, 6 months from now your driving will be completely different and you might have to go back to something you disreguarded early as a flaw.

 

again, i am not a pro driver at all. i am a technician and that is how i like my cars. technical and repeatable. feel free to use this how you want but it is by no means a bible for suspension tuning. if you want one, send me $500 and a case of killian's and ill write one.

Edited by joelwatts
I'm a native of South Carolina. I am a dying breed.
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Ordered 10k/8k coils. Fortune auto 500.

 

Heard it is better to run stiffer front then rear on these

 

What will you be doing with your STi suspension? I lost out on the setup I was trying to buy a month or two ago..

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