tjbev21 Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 05 GT Any insight? Most cars you just need to rotate the rotor and hammer out them individually, if anyone has performed the task that let me know the easiest way to get it done would be great. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I replaced one of the weekend. I removed the rotor and hammered it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil_z_33 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 yup you can hammer out one by one...but if you are going with longer studs, you might have to remove the hub to get the new ones in...I did...I ran 15mm longer than factory... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjbev21 Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 got er done today just had to replace the stock size, removed the rotor and caliper and hammered it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Oh man I have done this more times than most... Remove wheel Remove axle nut (140ft/lbs) Remove brake caliper, brake caliper bracket and rotor. Make sure your emergency brake is off before trying to yank off the rotor. If it is stuck on the emergency brake, release the shoes with the adjustment from behind the rubber plug on the back of the hub. Remove ABS sensor. Be careful not to snap off the bolt. Pro tip, when reinstalling the hub, make sure the stupid POS sensor doesn't fall down in between the sandwich. Otherwise you will have to unblot and rebolt what you just did. Remove four bolts from the back of the carrier that holds the wheel bearing/hub unit. These are a bit of a pain to get to. Make sure you have plenty of varying lengths of socket extensions. (58 ft/lbs) The bearing/hub slides off the axle with the studs. If your hub is frozen on the carrier, you will need a puller of some kind. This likely means removal of the parking break components. What I figured out was that I could use my super basic HF strut spring compressors as pullers by placing the long bolt on the brake backing plate and the threaded "claw" behind the hub. Take the unit to a shop and have them press out the old and press in the new. Do not use nuts and washers to seat the new studs. Read this case study for cause and effect. http://www.metalconsult.com/articles/Wheel%20Stud%20Bolt%20Failures.pdf Add some anti-seize to the threads and torque the lugs to 81 ft-lbs. After the first initial drive, double check the torque. Do it the right way and don't risk the type failures I have had; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5-sheared-studs-and-wheel-falls-off-141388.html -Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjbev21 Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 ^ I read all your posts about what happened. Thanks for the info and Im sorry to hear what you had to go through Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 I agree with Rob. You shouldn't pull studs through with a nut and washer stack. They should always be pressed in from behind. It's not that you'll definitely have a problem but it's good practice to push studs through. I don't know if there is room, but you could do this using a sturdy C-clamp and a deep socket. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 ^ I read all your posts about what happened. Thanks for the info and Im sorry to hear what you had to go through Thanks. In the end it was a learning experience. I'm just trying to share what I have learned. I have on a few occasions replaced studs on my impreza the shortcut way as well. Never again for me. -Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Why do you need to replace the stud ? Use anti-seize compound on the threads of the lug nut and stud. I learned that lesson years ago. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Yep, good advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 And if you do, you MUST reduce the torque applied by the correct factor depending on the lube. -Rob Most lubes will list this value, but if there is no notification, you can assume ~15% less torque. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Oh man I have done this more times than most... Remove wheel Remove axle nut Remove caliper Remove brake rotor (if it is stuck on the emergency brake, release the shoes with the adjustment from behind the rubber plug on the back of the hub) Remove ABS sensor Remove four bolts from the back of the carrier that holds the wheel bearing/hub unit. -Rob I just did this again (hopefully for the last time) and updated my instructions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted December 18, 2016 Share Posted December 18, 2016 I replaced my bearings/hubs again and have updated my posts above. Most lubes will list this value, but if there is no notification, you can assume ~15% less torque. Right. I have changed my opinion on this. I use anti-seize with standard torque spec, so effectively I am running about 20% higher than spec'd torque values. After my experience I have learned under torquing is far more problematic than over torquing. I now clean my wheel studs and lube with anti-seize once every couple of years. The dry torque specs assume a perfectly clean thread. Any bit of dirt will give false high reading, which could lead to under torqued lugs. A lubed thread will be more consistent. BTW, this is more than I ever wanted to worry about lug nuts, but so far so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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