OCDetails Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 My clutch stink disapeared 2000 miles ago. The car is still kind of sluggish when its cold though. It feels like a plugged fuel filter or a dirty air filter. If I had to really whomp on it from a cold start, I just don't think it would do very well. Is that something that doesn't go away without an AP? If so then it would be worth the cost right there. I've read about how others have experience sort of a stuttering start until the car gets warm, but after 3000 miles I would have thought it would go away. Its fine after it warms up, but for the first 15 minutes its a dog. What's up with that? _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eamiller Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 I've found that resetting the ECU frequently helps a lot, especially in the power department. The easiest way to reset the ECU is to pull the 7.5amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box. I was amazed at how much power the car gained. I think the ECU can learn bad habits over time (like too much timing retard). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadAndy Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 It will never go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 I've found that resetting the ECU frequently helps a lot, especially in the power department. The easiest way to reset the ECU is to pull the 7.5amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box. I was amazed at how much power the car gained. I think the ECU can learn bad habits over time (like too much timing retard).If it's doing that you are getting knock, resetting the ECU is going to make it knock again until the ECU can readjust it's knock correction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 Use WOT only for the first 15 minutes, I bet it won't stutter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scans007 Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 AP cleared my studder up at stage 2.....stage one I still have a little studder. Maybe the Crank pulley can help ya out, faster idle speed =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 What is this clutch stink you n00bz keep driveling on about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YBNormal07 Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 The Cobb AP makes it go away (mostly...still some faint feelings when cold). Any engine managment with proper tuning will do the same. Feels like the waste gate fluttering to me. Anyone ever data logged it to find out what the ECU is doing to make this happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKB_SATX Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 So is that the consensus? The only way to get rid of the stuttering/hesitation/coarse-part-throttle-power-delivery/whatever is an AP? Subaru hasn't managed to fix this for anyone? I had the usual "can't reproduce" and "Subaru says they've never heard of it" at the dealer in May for my 3k service. I'm wondering whether I should take the service writer and/or tech for a ride because *I* can reproduce it reliably, or just cave and get the AP. DKB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YBNormal07 Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 I'm sure if you pestered them enough, and even more important, gave an SOA rep a ride to show the symptons, eventaually SOA will take notice an maybe provide a reflash as a cure. However...you are looking at months if not years before that is fixed. It it isn't a safety hazaard or reliability issue, it will be hard to get them to pay attention to it. Besides..the AP provides so much more than just smoothing out the power band. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted June 10, 2005 Author Share Posted June 10, 2005 nobody at Subaru will be able to reproduce it because it only does it when it is cold. I would have to leave the car with them overnight and have them test it after it has sat for a few hours. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdisco Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 I thought the stutter was the same as the WRX which was a glazing of the flywheel? The fix was a heavier flywheel. After I almost stalled in the middle of an intersection and then proceded to beat my car into submission I had it fixed. Thats why my LGT is 5EAT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DKB_SATX Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 nobody at Subaru will be able to reproduce it because it only does it when it is cold. I would have to leave the car with them overnight and have them test it after it has sat for a few hours. My car will do it all day long, warm or cold. Case: moving uphill, 3rd or 4th, 2500-3500 RPM, gradually/smoothly advance the accelerator. Car will jerk and hiccup several times on each iteration of those conditions. It'll do it some even on a level surface, but it's more pronounced under load (uphill, several passengers, etc.) DKB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eamiller Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 If it's doing that you are getting knock, resetting the ECU is going to make it knock again until the ECU can readjust it's knock correction. I know how the ECU works for knock correction. If it were the knock factor, then it would feel the same after a very short period of time. However, this isn't the case. This is a decrease in power over time. It's also longer than short term fuel trim and long term fuel trim implications. That being said, if knock were the problem, say due to gas (which it shouldn't under optimal conditions), there should be a routine in the software to advance the timing to see if the knock goes away and back off the retard. Either Subaru doesn't do this properly, or it's something else in the learning process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YBNormal07 Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 Our ECU's actually learn only when "off boost". I know that sounds wierd but that is the case. (wish I could find the info I had on this a while ago). Resetting the ECU is a common way to gain back power lost due to re-alinged fuel/air maps, timing maps, and to some extent the MAF voltage. Just an FYI though. Don't reset the ECU for at least 30 days before an inspection, as the OBDII readers used need to see a certain amount of "cycles" in order to pass you. Otherwise, numerous CELs could be cleared just prior to inspection, allowing some faults to pass. Regarding the original poster. Every FI Subaru I've owned does this until I equipped it with enginge management (in my case Cobb AP). Just an FYI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCDetails Posted June 10, 2005 Author Share Posted June 10, 2005 So the suggestion I am seeing is to pull the fuse and reset the ECU and the problem may go away? That would be great if it did. I've only got 3000 miles on the car, so I guess I'm just not expecting that much power loss already. _________________________________________ “Cleanliness becomes more important as godliness becomes more unlikely.” O C D E T A I L S . C O M OCDETAILS BLOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YBNormal07 Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 I wouldn't count on it going away with an ECU reset, but it certainly won't hurt anything to try it. BTW..when resetting, be sure to tap the brakes after disconnecting the battery (or pulling the fuse as suggested above..but I believe that just isolates the ECU from power and there are still "trons" in the line...ok..so sue me..I'm into hole theory, not flow theory). This will discharge all lines and will ensure a clean start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 Even when my car is warmed up, it will still stutter at RPMs below 2900 and it's really making me want to get some engine management once I get a downpipe... -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GardenWeasel Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 nobody at Subaru will be able to reproduce it because it only does it when it is cold. I would have to leave the car with them overnight and have them test it after it has sat for a few hours. http://www.home.earthlink.net/~thegardenweasel/7-15.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YBNormal07 Posted June 12, 2005 Share Posted June 12, 2005 I'm not sure what the relevance of the above paste is to the stuttering issue? Care to explain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.