MooKz Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Hey guys, First off, I would love to share my experience with the Spec Stage 2 Clutch. IT SUCKS. Pros: Excellent pedal feel Quick engagement Cons: Mine died after only 2.5 months Smells even after break in period To me, those cons are not worth it. So now, I am going with stage 3+ due to it having a carbon semi metallic plate instead of Kevlar. Has anybody done a stage 3 yet? I would love to know how it rides/feels/shifts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 I don't understand why youir Spec2 lasted only 2.5 months ? I have a 2+ with 72,000 miles on it. Love it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiedad51 Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Wow that's 2 pretty bad reviews in the last couple of days for Spec Stage 2 clutches. I'm looking at either the Clutchmaster or Competition Clutches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Don't write it off until you know the whole story. From what he said above, you can't say it was the clutch's fault. You can read thru a bunch of forum sites and find bad things about all products. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 I rarely launched it and I didn't beat on it. I only used my flat foot 3 times. Kevlar wears quick apparently. So never again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 16, 2011 Share Posted August 16, 2011 I'll assume the clutch was installed correctly and the flywheel was surfaced. I don't understand why the Spec 2 failed so quickly ? I have slipped my 2+ a number of times sitting at a intersection, waiting for traffic to clear. Clutch pedal about 1/2 out just revving the engine, about 2000-3500rpm slipping the clutch to put some heat in it and then launch the car with about 3/4 throttle. The thing will still put your head in the back seat and spin the tires in second gear. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Well I guess the stage 2 can't hold my torque output as well seeing as I have added stageless bolt ons and such. (header/up) and PDX tuned me to put out the highest numbers they could get me. PDX is extremely easy to work with btw. The stage 2+ has really good reviews but I heard with launch control, you don't want a clutch made with Kevlar. You want carbon semi metallic. I am going by what I hear about the stage 3+. I can see the 6 puck being a pita in traffic but 5 speeds already taught me to deal with it. Lol. So needless to say, I'm going to try the stage 3+ or just the 3. Who knows? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 A spec stg 2 clutch is more than enough clamping force for a stg 2 LGT. When the clutch is pulled, ensure the sprung side of the clutch disc is facing the pressure plate and that the disc itself was labeled correctly. I just had an issue where my disc was labeled backwards from the Spec factory. It would not clamp down under a decent load. I would not be surprised if that's what your problem was. otherwise, you don't want a stg 3 puck style clutch. drivability is really an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 What about the stage 3 that isn't pucked. It should last me and be perfect for going up to the track when I feel the need. I haven't gotten to run it yet and it saddens me. The clutch was installed properly because we looked at instructions over and over again and it told us which side it should face. I'll ensure to double check again though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 I'm not saying you installed it wrong. I'm saying the factory may have mislabeled it, causing you to put it in the wrong way. The misconception about aftermarket clutches is that they will last longer than a OEM clutch. This is not the case. They are just built for more clamping power. Usually, the higher you go in rated TQ specs, the shorter the lifespan of the clutch. More abrasive materials wear faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 the 3+ ive had twice. if you like clutch chatter, then its the one for you. i will take launching well though. both of mine ended badly though. the first one started slipping after 20k mi. the second after about 10k mi, decided to weld itself to the flywheel. the act 6puck i has been much better. though still chattery, its lasted longer than the spec setups ive had and held everything ive through at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 May be people need to understand that using a 400whp car as a DD is not a good idea. In the 72,000 miles on my Spec2+ only the last 10,000 have been at stage 2 HP. Before that it was at stage1, I have no idea how much HP my car makes but I'm happy with it as a DD. It's getting a VF52 in the next few day's so we'll see how that goes. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 I might go stage 2+ then. will they take a beating? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 I got ~20k on my stage 2+ with close to 30 drag launches. Started slipping on me during shifts last week at the track. The car still drives fine, but I'll never buy another 2+ clutch again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 I heard Kevlar isnt good material to launch with. The stage 3 puck will probably be good for launch and flat foot shifting but I kind of want a full faced, hence why i was asking about the stage 3+. Does it chatter REAL bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRSCobra Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 It only chatters when it heats up while driving around town. And if traffic, it gets BAD. I've also got groupN motor and transmission mounts, so they transmit more NVH into the cabin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subyduby-doo Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 Just go with an ACT stage two and streetlite FW. I have been running this (impreza RS model) for over 20,000 miles at stage 2, 3 and now stage four. My car puts down 385lb/ft of torque, and no problem holding the power. Trust me, you won't be dissapointed. Driveability is great. Just a bit stiffer than stock. ACT is also cheaper than Spec. ____Spending funds in mass quantities! I keep telling myself it's just a hobby? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firepuma Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 ACT is also cheaper than Spec. Where did you get that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted August 18, 2011 Author Share Posted August 18, 2011 The ACT looks more expensive. I have seen really good reviews on the spec stage 2+ and I think I'll take that route. My stepdad says he can probably take the glaze off my current clutch assuming that's why it's slipping from being burnt. I should have included that explanation. Before it slipped, my FFS got reset to 8K and I shifted way up there not realizing it. So yeah, it's probably glazed from being exposed to the extreme heat from high rpms. I have concluded it might have been from my accidental rpm skyrocket. But regardless, I see sone Subies going over rev limit and theirs are fine. Oh well. Next time my battery is reset, (I was changing battery connectors), I will remember to reset my flat foot back to 6200. (about where my torque ends.) I will go with the stage 2+ and I'll keep updating every thousand miles or so including my break in period. Now, last question. Should I be safe to run my spec stage 2 pp with the 2+ disc? It should be fine right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subyduby-doo Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 ACT is also cheaper than Spec. Where did you get that? I paid $775 delivered for my clutch & flywheel. Don't know how that's more expensive. But whatever. Even if it is a few bucks more. I've had no issues with premature wear, & it definitely holds the power. U can never give wrong with ACT in my opinion. This is the third ACT I've installed in one of my vehicles & they've always made a quality product. ____Spending funds in mass quantities! I keep telling myself it's just a hobby? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Well clutch and flywheel may be cheaper but if you just want kit and no flywheel, spec is cheaper. But I want a new LWFW, but I am short on funds right now so I can only get the clutch for now. :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subyduby-doo Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Trust me. If u can hold off till u get enough money for both, it'll be so worth it. Besides. If you do just clutch right now, you'll have to pay twice for installation when it comes time to install flywheel. Jmo. ____Spending funds in mass quantities! I keep telling myself it's just a hobby? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 I do myinstalls myself. Cheaper. I don't pull the motor, tranny, OR the axles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 I will go with the stage 2+ and I'll keep updating every thousand miles or so including my break in period. Now, last question. Should I be safe to run my spec stage 2 pp with the 2+ disc? It should be fine right? IMO for the best results, you need to surface the flywheel and pressure plate. I have never heard of anyone re-surfacing the PP. But I would think the get the proper clamping force for the 2+ you need the matching PP. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooKz Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 IMO for the best results, you need to surface the flywheel and pressure plate. I have never heard of anyone re-surfacing the PP. But I would think the get the proper clamping force for the 2+ you need the matching PP. Well I'm getting the kit from ERZperformance.com so it comes with both the flywheel however, I can't get yet. :/ I'll clean the stocker up a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.