Legacy Wagon Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Not sure. I think it's zero though haha Post a picture of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.Legacy.SS Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 oh the chart? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Uh huh. Or wherever you got the info from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberty10 Posted November 10, 2011 Author Share Posted November 10, 2011 What I did to my Legacy today? Well, I opened the passenger door, unlocked and pushed open the driver's door, and then walked around the car to get it. lol.. There's always something to learn/fix on these oldies, isn't there? I went to unlock the driver's door this afternoon and the key just kept turning, all the way around, and around.. much like Linda Blair's head, in the Exorcist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Sounds exactly what mine did about 6 months ago. You get used to it quick. Also nice to have a passenger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberty10 Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 Hi LW. Did you repair yours? It'll be too cold for me to be messing around with repairs that I have no clue about, but in Spring (about 11 mths from now) maybe I'll tackle it. It still locks properly and can unlock/lock from the inside but around and around it goes when I use the key. Strange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Nope Which was really a pain when I accidentally locked my seatbelt in my door when I closed it so I had to walk back around the passenger side and unlock it, then come back around to open my driver door and pull my seatbelt out. Also, not sure if you know how to lock it without having to go to the passenger side, but there's a way. XD @ 11 months I just need a new handle/key combo, but the junk cars either have keys or handles. Never both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91-SUB-LEGACY Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 got a set of VVME 55w HIDs with ac ballasts to keep them cooler and make the ballast last longer should be here tomorrow and installed tomorrow night ill post comparence pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Dang...that sounds awesome The Legacy's always had really poor lighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.Legacy.SS Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 91-SUB: what brand are you getting or are they just off ebay lol a co-worker of mine got some off there and they work great lol and yeah my lighting sucks even with silver stars... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amorgan93 Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 for really good quality, cheap HIDS i recommend DDM tuning. Lifetime warranty, and they sell 35W and 55W sets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver03 Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Installed a pair of 2nd gen subaru tweeters... turned out great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.Legacy.SS Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 for really good quality, cheap HIDS i recommend DDM tuning. Lifetime warranty, and they sell 35W and 55W sets. okay ill probely get them so then my next question is will i need to get the error eliminator, and HID harness (Dual in, Dual out)? also they say there 55w washes out some of the color in the lights (55w kits tend to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output( for example, a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit). so should i just go with the 8000k then? and does it matter if i get the Hi/Low set up lol? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amorgan93 Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 (edited) okay ill probely get them so then my next question is will i need to get the error eliminator, and HID harness (Dual in, Dual out)? also they say there 55w washes out some of the color in the lights (55w kits tend to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output( for example, a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit). so should i just go with the 8000k then? and does it matter if i get the Hi/Low set up lol? for a 92 legacy im pretty sure you wont need the error eliminator. i think people with the newer legacy's are getting them though (2003 +). About the Dual in Dual out harness.. Some cars need them and some dont. Its a relay harness that provides the lights with a larger amount of power/more stable power (power straight from the battery instead of the voltage from your original headlights) and it uses the 12v signal from your original headlights to activate the relays instead of powering the lights. The HIDs need to warm up, and they must have a certain voltage to "fire." It cant hurt to have the harness, but ide say if you were just ordering the 35 watt low beam HIDs dont get it. If you are going with Low and High beam HIDs ide say get the harness. Also if you go 55 watt, just to be safe i would get the harness since they use quite a bit more power and would place a significantly higher load on your factory wiring. 35 watts is enough for most people Edited November 15, 2011 by amorgan93 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91-SUB-LEGACY Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 okay ill probely get them so then my next question is will i need to get the error eliminator, and HID harness (Dual in, Dual out)? also they say there 55w washes out some of the color in the lights (55w kits tend to wash out some of the color of the HID bulb due to the light output( for example, a 55w 8000k will look similar in color to a 35w 6000k kit). so should i just go with the 8000k then? and does it matter if i get the Hi/Low set up lol? mine are garunteed to not wash out so im goona stick with VVME and it only cost me 50 bucks for the kit. i got a deep blue with 55w bulbs and hihgs and lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amorgan93 Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 mine are garunteed to not wash out so im goona stick with VVME and it only cost me 50 bucks for the kit. i got a deep blue with 55w bulbs and hihgs and lows VVME is great as well. DDM just has a lifetime warranty whereas the VVME is a one year limited. Its really a draw as i have read the VVME are slightly better quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91-SUB-LEGACY Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 ya but shipping got delayed supposed to be here 2 days ago im just anticipating their arrival Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liberty10 Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 Bought a new extension cord and plugged in the block heater. Is it Spring yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.Legacy.SS Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 cleaned my K&N today car feels more peepy lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Got an ECU from another site for $25 so when it gets here we'll see if it helps haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.Legacy.SS Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 whats wrong? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Who knows...if it fixes the issues, nothing. If it doesn't I suppose I'll explain the problems haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.Legacy.SS Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 ok sounds good haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.Legacy.SS Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 just ordered my ddm tuning hid kit lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 So the ECU didnt fix the problem. I've replaced the ECU, knock sensor, coil pack and I think something else so far. I have a spare crank and cam sensor I'm gonna throw on tonight. I think I may have fried some wiring. Ok, so I copied this from another forum. Here's the scenario: About two months ago I did an engine swap. This engine sounded great, ran great and not a bit of smoke or oil leaks so I bought it and took it home. I pulled off the valve covers and oil pan and sprayed the whole thing out with a gas/air mixture. I put on a new front main seal, rear main seal and cam seals. It got a new water pump, thermostat, timing belt, idler pulleys and valve cover gaskets. I ran some BG44k through it after it fired up to clean out any excess carbon and the engine was running awesome! I installed a manual oil pressure gauge to keep an eye on it since it was a new engine. Well the other week the oil pressure gauge piping started to have a small leak due to having to move it once and reuse the compression fitting. I ended up trying to use black RTV around it to prevent it from leaking and that didnt work. It had kicked on the oil light, but I was watching the psi and it read fine and the oil light went back off. Well it happened again so I thought about buying new piping. One day it was on for about 30 seconds so I shut the car off and it went away. I ended up going up and buying new piping for it that day and when I went to change it out the new piping was crimped. Well I took that back and got another. It was crimped too so I just bought an entire new gauge. I installed the gauge yesterday. When I went to install it I had taken the alternator off and before I set it down I noticed I had forgot to disconnect the wiring on top or on the battery. It had been a long day with little sleep the night before so I started to take it off and I dropped the alternator on the radiator support and blew out the fusibile link. So I ended up making a new one with new fusible link wiring from autozone and it ran perfectly yesterday. So today it had been running awesome all morning and I went to my girlfriend's house. Well it was time for church so we left. Now I know it's an old car that I just recently swapped the engine on so I got up to 40 and I sped up pretty slowly up to 50 when the sign changed speeds and the car started to feel a little laggy and went away so I drove a bit further to see if it'd do it again and four seconds later it started to feel laggy again so I start to slow down to pull over and the engine shut off while I was driving. I put it in neutral and coasted to a stop without power steering or braking. I shut the car down and looked under the alternator and found oil coming out of the gauge piping. I started the car back up and it was running rough as I was watching the oil pressure through the gauge (didnt get to see the RPM's) and it was shaking...feeling like it was missing or something so I shut it back off after about 5 seconds. I ended up putting the old oil plug back on there and connected the line again and started it up and it sounded find. Ran smooth. Idled smooth. I drove it back home about 10 miles to my parents house and it drove perfect the whole time. I watched the temp gauge the whole drive didnt move after it got up to running temperature. I checked the oil and no milk and I checked the coolant and no oil. All of the fluids on the car are at the proper level and everything to my knowledge is plugged in. Could it have been the leak in the gauge piping? Not having that sensor hooked up? Anyone have this happen before or have any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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